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By Liam KirkhamLiam KirkhamLessons from the riverIve spent an ill-advised amount of time, money and energy on kayaking. Its taken me all over the world, and despite never being a great kayaker, Ive racked up a fair bit of experience. Im not kayaking as much as I used to, but looking back, I realise some of my biggest life lessons have been handed out by the river though that may say more about my lack of education than anything else.Before I begin, I want to set the stage for the kind of lessons youll encounter. Id like to share some of these lessons with you in a series of ten true stories. Expect tangents, pseudo-philosophy, solid advice, and utter nonsense. Ill leave it to you to decipher which is which as we transition between stories.Lets start with an early oneAt 16, I went to college to study outdoor sports. I thought climbing might be for me, but I got frustrated that if you arent great, you dont reach the top. Discovering that I could go down the whole river, even as the worst kayaker in the group, sealed my choice.I certainly wasnt a natural. I swam. I swam a lot. On one occasion, I swam three times in ten metres.I flipped on an eddy line as I came in and swam. I emptied my Necky Switch on the banks of the Lune and carefully got back on the water. Then, trying to exit the same eddy, I flipped again and had to empty my boat in the exact same spot before gingerly getting back on the water. This time, I managed to cross the eddy line, but as soon as I was in the flow, I flipped and swam again. At least this time, I was making progress downstream.Some days were better than others. Theres a paradoxical trickery to kayaking: to be good, you have to relax but you cant relax until youre good.We spent a lot of time in the minibus driving to rivers, and I later realised I was mentally fried by the time we reached the put-in. It wasnt that I was scared, but I certainly wasnt calm, relaxed, or zen. My brow was furrowed, my stomach in knots, anxious about how I would paddle that day. There was a direct correlation between how bad I felt at the put-in and how badly I paddled.The problem began in the minibusThe better kayakers would talk about water levels, what happened last time, swims, perfect lines, magnetic rocks, and near misses. It may have helped them prepare for the day, but it had the opposite effect on me. It overloaded my brain, spiked my adrenaline, and sent me down a rabbit hole of thoughts. An hour later, when we arrived at the river, I was already psychologically spent.I cant remember whether I consciously decided to take control of the situation or whether it was a happy accident, but I started bringing a book for the journey. While our lecturers drove and the bus filled with the usual kayak chat, Id get stuck into Harry Potter.I arrived at the river in a much better frame of mindIt wasnt that I was avoiding key information. Our instructor would give us a proper brief before we got our gear on the levels, the plan, what we were aiming to learn that day. That was what I needed to hear, and when I needed to hear it.I began to realise that the head game was a huge part of kayaking. That brings me back to Harry Potter and one of my favourite quotes, Tell me one last thing, said Harry. Is this real? Or has this been happening inside my head?Dumbledore beamed at him, and his voice sounded loud and strong in Harrys ears even though the bright mist was descending again, obscuring his figure.Of course it is happening inside your head, Harry, but why on earth should that mean that it is not real?Ive learned a lot about the head game since then, but that was my first real insight.Reflecting on those minibus trips and how the conversation, crowd, and company affected my day (or more precisely, how I let them affect my day) leads me to the first clear lesson from the river:Lesson 1: Be careful what you consume.

Words: Marc OrnsteinPhotos: Marc OrnsteinMarc OrnsteinFunctional vs interpretive FreeStyle canoeingSo, what is FreeStyle, and what is the difference between Functional FreeStyle and Interpretive FreeStyle? One of the best definitions of FreeStyle is The art and science of precision canoeing. That definition is a catchy phrase and quite accurate, but it requires more discussion.Freestyle is a canoeing discipline that emphasises the entire connection between the boat (canoe), the body (the paddler), and the blade (the paddle), maximising the effectiveness and efficiency of each element.Boat: Freestyle instruction fosters an understanding of how the hulls shape affects its movement through the water and how it can be effectively modified on the go by employing both heel (tipping the hull laterally) and pitch (tipping the hull fore or aft).This paddler is working on her right side; the quadrants are named based on that paddle position.Body refers to the connection of the paddlers body to the hull. Kneeling with ones butt against the forward edge of the seat or a kneeling thwart, with one knee in each chine (three points of contact), provides the most secure connection; however, maximising heel and pitch may require modifying or even converting the three-point connection to two points. In two-point, the paddler comes up on his knees, lifting his butt off the seat. Various knee positions are used to enhance both heel and pitch.A blade is the paddle that connects the paddler to the water. Through proficient, accurate use of the paddle, she creates and controls the canoes movement through the water.PhotosThe photos below show several of the FreeStyle manoeuvres, in their functional/practical application, and in their more dramatic interpretive performance versions.1. Functional Post Solo2. Interpretive Post Solo3. Functional Axel Solo4. Interpretive Axel Solo5. Functional Tandem Post6. Interpretive Tandem PostFreestyle canoeing consists of a series of basic manoeuvres that have been developed, along with a teaching curriculum based on them. While each manoeuvre is initially learned in the forward quadrant, a skilled practitioner of freestyle eventually learns how to apply those manoeuvres while travelling both forward and reverse, and on both the on-side and the cross side of the canoe. In other words, in all four quadrants. (Note: When paddling on the cross or off side of the canoe, the paddler maintains the same hand on paddle positions as when paddling on the on side. In other words, whichever hand was on the grip and whichever hand was on the shaft, while paddling on the side, remains so when paddling cross-side.Most freestyle techniques are developed from a functional standpoint. Various techniques/manoeuvres are used to navigate lakes and streams. On narrow, twisty streams or crenulated shores, freeStyle shines. The movements of the paddle, the paddler, and the canoe are fluid, seamless, and efficient.Outdoing each otherAs the discipline developed, humans being human, a bit of friendly competition developed as canoeists attempted to outdo each other, kind of like, You think thats cool? Watch this. More extreme versions of each manoeuvre evolved. Canoeists came up with novel ways to link one manoeuvre seamlessly to the next. Eventually, someone introduced music to the lakeshore, and people began paddling in time with it. And thus, the beginnings of Interpretive FreeStyle.A good interpretive routine is not only paddled in time with the music, but also rises and falls with its intensity. Different variants of each of the manoeuvres may also be employed. Flourishes of the hand and body may be displayed, as well as costuming, if appropriate. It should be noted that the goal is to make the canoe dance, but not for the paddler to be dancing in the boat.

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WORDS:LISA DREWEPHOTOS:LISA DREWEBioLisa is an award-winning outdoor writer, paddler and guidebook author, best known for her Paddleboarding book series published by Wild Things Publishing. She has explored hundreds of routes across Britain by paddleboard and kayak and writes regularly for outdoor and paddlesports publications.https://www.islandeering.comRead Lisas prior post on ten of the best paddling routes in London and thr South East at:https://paddlerezine.com/10-best-paddling-routes-in-the-se/Five spring city paddlesFrom a floating harbour and Londons oldest canal to industrial Midlands waterways, an Olympic stadium loop and a Scottish canal linking sea lochs to city parks, these five urban paddles reveal a different side of Britains waterways.City paddling offers a fascinating way to experience places that are usually seen only from streets and bridges. Slip quietly past converted dockyards, graffiti-lined canals, Olympic architecture and revived industrial basins where city life changes with the flow of water. Perfect for an early Spring paddle, these routes combine sheltered water with strong stories engineering feats of the Industrial Revolution, maritime heritage, ambitious regeneration projects and creative urban spaces. Along the way, youll find waterside cafs, historic pubs and plenty of easy access points, making them ideal for relaxed day trips or exploratory half-day adventures.Lets explore these routes in detail, starting with Bristol.1. Bristol Floating HarbourSee the best of Bristols harbourside at a relaxed pace, with options to explore feeder waterways. The Floating Harbour, kept at a constant level by locks and pumps since 1809, protects this stretch from tidal changes. Historic wharf buildings and engineering sites now host attractions.Launch at Baltic Wharf slipway. Paddle past Underfall Yard the old pumping station turned museum and caf and several museums and galleries along the water. Spot historic vessels like the Mayflower, Pyronaut, John King, John Cabots Matthew replica, and the centrepiece SS Great Britain at the Great Western Dockyard.To extend the trip, the Bristol Harbour Licence allows you to continue upstream on the River Avon as far as Hanham Lock.With your Bristol adventure complete, discover what awaits in London.Access restrictions: Bristol Harbour Licence required, 11.70/day from Harbour Office at Underfall Yard (0117 903 1484).Parking: SS Great Britain Car Park (charges), Great Western Dockyard, Gas Ferry Road, Bristol BS1 6UN. The car park is 800 metres from the launch point. Alternatively, drop off kit by the Cottage Inn, adjacent to the launch site, before parking.Launch: Baltic Wharf Slipway, Bristol BS1 6XG. Grid ST 5726 7216; Lat/long 51.4468, -2.6163.Pitstops: The Orchard Inn Huge range of local ciders and doorstep sarnies www.orchardinn.co.uk.The Grain Barge Great harbour views and craft beers https://grainbarge.com.Nova Scotia Hearty pub food and dockside seating https://novascotiabristol.com.The Cottage Post-paddle pie and pint right on the slipway (0117 9215256).Special points: Busy harbour traffic keep right and give way to larger vessels. BA and leash required; night paddling requires two paddlers and white lights. Launch only from Baltic Wharf; carry your licence. Full regulations www.bristol.gov.uk/bristol-harbour/safety/water-safety-codes-of-practice/paddle-boarding-safety-code-of-practice.Getting there: By car from the west, leave M5 J18 and take the A4 to Bristol, following brown signs to SS Great Britain. From the east, leave M4 J19, take M32 into the city and follow brown signs. By public transport, Bristol Ferry runs weekend winter services (full timetable in summer) between Bristol Temple Meads and Baltic Wharf: www.bristolferry.com/ferry.Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-bristol-floating-harbour2. London, Limehouse Cut and Olympic Stadium (10.5km return)A loop through East Londons waterways linking the Limehouse Cut with the Bow Back Rivers around the Olympic Stadium. Historic canals, industrial relics and Olympic landmarks combine on this distinctive urban paddle.This route begins on the Limehouse Cut Londons oldest canal before threading into the Bow Back Rivers, a network of channels revitalised for the 2012 Olympics within Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park.Start at Limehouse Basin, joining the Limehouse Cut. Pass Ropemakers Field on the right before going under a railway bridge and Kings Wharf Park. Continue straight, flanked by apartments, warehouses, and bridges, heading toward the A12.At the canals bend, stay left at Bow Locks, avoiding the locks and entering the River Lea Navigation under road and rail bridges. Pass Bow Free Wharf. Before Old Ford Lock, turn right under the footbridge to follow City Mill River around the London Stadium. Look for the ArcelorMittal Orbit and London Aquatics Centre, then pass City Mill Lock into the Bow Back Rivers.After St Thomas Creek footbridge, turn sharply left under the A118 to rejoin the River Lea and follow your route back via Limehouse Cut.After exploring Londons waterways, head north to the industrial heart of Birmingham.Licence: Required, included in Paddle UK membership.Starting point: Limehouse Basin, Pinnacle Way, E14 7PB (TQ 363 810; 51.51193, -0.03651).Launch: From the north side, off the concrete platform by the lock, into Regents Canal.Pitstops: Quirky caf Great atmosphere and food. The Yurt Caf. Short walk from Limehouse Basin www.rfsk.org.uk/yurt-cafe.Special points: In summer, invasive weeds can slow progress. Always wash gear thoroughly before entering other waterways to prevent the spread of invasive species.Note: There are no locks to portage.Getting there: From Limehouse DLR, exit Branch Road, turn left, and follow the arches 250m to the canal launch.Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-limehouse-cut-and-olympic-stadium/3. Birmingham (17km; or shorter option via rail return)Cruise between chocolate heaven and this citys industrial heart along the Worcester & Birmingham Canal and BCN Old Main Line, where brick wharves and the soot-darkened warehouses of the Industrial Revolution are now splashed with colour from cafs, bars and bustling canal-side terraces.Launch at Junction House, Kings Norton and head north to Bournville and Cadburys World, looking out for the caf boat Lola often moored nearby. A further 2.5km leads to the reed fringes, anglers and university boathouses of Edgbaston before entering the 96-metre Edgbaston tunnel.Approaching The Mailbox, now BBC studios and waterside cafs, you enter a more urban stretch. Pass Love Lock Bridge and stay left onto BCN Old Main Line.Gas Street Basin marks the first gas-lit freight interchange where coal, iron and finished goods were shifted between rival companies. Cast-iron signposts to London, Worcester and Stratford still point the way amongst narrowboats that idle beside bar terraces and familiar Peaky Blinders backdrops.Regency Wharfs old coal drops lead to clear canal water before Broad Street Tunnel forming Black Sabbath Bridge and Brindley Place, named for pioneer James Brindley.Head to Old Turn Junction the canals Spaghetti Junction circle the island and return via the same route (or rail return via Five Ways Station). Once back at Junction House, detour 700 metres east on Stratford-upon-Avon Canal to the rare Guillotine Lock.Access: Licence required, included in Paddle UK membership.Parking: Norton Playing Fields Car Park, Kings Norton B30 3HB. Grid SP 05049 79157; Lat/long 52.410, -1.927.Launch: Canal-side access by Junction House (Grid ref. SP 053 793), 300 metres from car park.Pitstops: Lola the canal boat Pizza and coffee https://lolathecafeboat.co.uk. The Tap and Spile Great ales and food at Peaky Blinders-era canal-side inn near Gas Street Basin https://tapandspile.co.uk.Special points: Carry a head torch and a whistle to alert oncoming craft. Always pass on the right.Getting there: By rail Birmingham New Street to Kings Norton (London North Western Railway, www.londonnorthwesternrailway.co.uk). By car take M42 Junction 2 north to Kings Norton Weatherspoons roundabout, then turn right after 300 metres into the car park.Map: OS Explorer 220, Birmingham.Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-birmingham-kings-norton4. Cardiff (6.5 km return)Large urban freshwater lake fed by the Rivers Ely and Taff, enclosed by the barrage and offering a unique paddling circuit past Cardiffs waterfront landmarks, historic buildings and a thriving wetland reserve.Leave Cardiff International White Water Centre, turn left onto the River Ely, passing Penarth Basins moorings. Round the Hamadryad Peninsula to barrage buoys, then head east across Cardiff Bay.Follow the east shore, passing the Cardiff Bay Sailing Centre. Continue to the white clapboard Norwegian Church, now an arts centre and caf. Proceed through Mermaid Quay, where the red-brick Pierhead Building stands opposite the Senedd and the Wales Millennium Centre, its copper, hull-shaped roof reflecting the bays maritime past. The Giant Wheel overlooks pontoons, pleasure boats, cafs, and restaurants.Heading south along the west side, pass the Rugby Players Statue and the entrance to the former shipbuilding yards of Mount Stuart Graving Docks.The five-star St Davids Hotel marks the approach to the Cardiff Bay Wetlands Reserve, where reedbeds support over fifty bird species, including great crested grebe, tufted duck and Cettis warbler. Cross the Taff mouth with views to the Lower Penarth Peninsula before returning to CIWW.Access restrictions: Launch only at Cardiff International White Water Centre or Channel View Leisure Centre slipway (report to reception). Day pass 8 www.ciww.com/park-and-play-2.Launch: Launching River pontoons, Cardiff International White Water Centre (CIWW), Watkiss Way, Cardiff, CF11 0SY. Grid ref. ST 179 728; Lat/long 51.448, -3.182.Parking: Cardiff International White Water Centre (free when paying for park and play day permit).Pitstops: Ty Melin Bakery Seriously excellent bakery adjacent to the CIWWC, https://tymelinbakery.com.Special points: Exposed to wind check conditions at Penarth on Surfline. Landing only at launch sites. Avoid barrage and jet-boat exclusion zones (see Cardiff Harbour navigation map). Non-tidal, but the Ely and Taff may flow strongly after rain. Keep clear of sluices, stay to right of marked channels; watch for ferry and rowing traffic. Wear BA and leash recommended; check local notices to mariners.Getting there: Car M4 J33 onto A4232 towards Penarth; after crossing River Ely, take fourth exit at roundabout onto A4055; first left following signs to International Sports Village, the first right along Olympic Drive to CIWW Rail Transport for Wales Train from Cardiff Central to Cogan rail station, 600-metre walk to Cardiff International White Water Centre.OS Map: OS Explorer 151, Cardiff and Bridgend.Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddle-boarding-in-cardiff-bay/5. Glasgow, Forth and Clyde Canal (various)Threading coast to coast across central Scotland, the Forth & Clyde Canal offers paddlers a sheltered corridor of flat water where shipyards, street art and kingfishers share the same reach. These two public-transport-friendly urban paddles show their range: Bowling to Westerton, with sea-loch views and Clyde heritage, and Applecross Wharf to Lambhill, where a mythical serpent, Glasgows answer to The Kelpies, and tranquil Cadder woods lead to the welcoming hub at Lambhill Stables.Bowling to Westerton (11km one way; rail return)Launch at Bowling Basin, beneath the Kilpatrick Hills, among colourful moorings, the eighteenth-century Customs House and views down the Clyde. Paddle east past Ferrydyke Bridge and under the Erskine Bridge to Dalmuir Drop Lock Europes only one. Portage via the traffic-light crossing, watching for the Beardmore sculpture marking the former naval yard that built Dreadnoughts. Continue through regenerated Clydebank, beneath shopping-centre footbridges and past the floating chippy. Follow the long straight pound to Boghouse Locks (4 portages), then under Great Western Road to Cloberhill Locks (5). Exit the canal just before the Westerton footbridge for the train return.Applecross Wharf to Lambhill Stables (10km return)Launch at Applecross Wharf pontoon (Scottish Canals HQ). Paddle west past Firhill Stadium to lively Stockingfield Junction with its 30-metre Spire and mosaic serpent, Bella the Beithir. Turn right (east) into a quieter, greener reach through Cadder woods. Slip under the A879 to Lambhill Stables (5km) a historic staging post, now caf, toilets and bike hub. Return the same way, or walk south on the A879 to Knapdale Street for bus 7/7A.Access restrictions: No licence required, but paddlers are asked to complete a free online trip registration with Scottish Canals.Parking: Bowling Basin (free), Dumbarton Rd, Bowling, Glasgow G60 5AF, Grid ref. NS 453 735; Lat/long 55.929, -4.477; Applecross Wharf, Applecross Street, Glasgow, G4 9SP; Grid ref. NS 587 671; Lat, long: 55.877, -4.259.Launch/Egress: Bowling Harbour to Westerton Station: Launch at Bowling Harbour E of sea loch, Grid ref. NS 452 735; Lat/long 55.929, -4.478. Egress at Westerton Rail Station pontoon, Grid ref. NS 539 704; Lat/long 55.904, -4.337. Applecross Wharf to Lambhill: Launch at Applecross Wharf pontoon, Grid ref. NS 586 671; Lat/long 55.877, -4.261. Egress at Lambhill Stables, Grid ref. NS 584 694; Lat/long 55.896, -4.265.Pitstops: Bowling Harbour Popular canal side caf under the railway arches, Patons www.instagram.com/patons.place. Clyde Shopping Centre Great fish and chip takeaway from boat-based restaurant McMonagles www.mcmonaglesglasgow.co.uk. Lambhill Stable Paddle-friendly and community-run caf serving great nosh www.lambhillstables.org/cafe-and-kitchen. Applecross Wharf Coffee, soups and treats in the community-run, Gathering Ground https://gatheringground.org.Special points: The Bowling to Westerton route has several easy lock portages, where a sling may be useful to lift your craft out of the water at lower water levels.Public transport: Scotrail from Glasgow Central to both Bowling and Westerton rail stations. For Applecross to Lambshill, use Firstbus 7/7A from Glasgow city centre to Bairds Brae Road (150-metre walk north to Applecross Wharf). Return from Lambhill: walk south on Balmore Road to Knapdale Street for the 7/7A back.Map: OS Explorer 342 Glasgow, Paisley, Rutherglen and Kirkintilloch.Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddlboarding-glasgow-forth-and-clyde-canalFinal wordCities are rarely thought of as paddling destinations, yet many of Britains most interesting waterways run straight through their centres. These routes show how water has shaped the growth, industry and renewal of our cities. Paddle them, and youll see familiar skylines from a completely different perspective quieter, slower and surprisingly wild.

Words: Richard Harpham Photos: Richard Harpham & Ashley KenlockRichard HarphamBioRichard is a human powered adventurer and inspirational speaker who has completed over 10,000 miles of expeditions by kayak, canoe, bike and on foot including exploring the Yukon, cycling the Sahara and Canadas Inside Passage.At home he runs www.canoetrail.co.uk, a watersports and adventure business with his wife Ashley in Bedfordshire providing qualifications, canoe camping, coaching and paddling trips to some of the UKs and worlds best locations. He is the former editor of Bushcraft and Survival Magazine and writes for Outdoor Adventure Guide, MoDs Resettlement magazine and the Paddler magazine.His adventures are supported by: Flint Group, Paramo Clothing, Olympus Cameras, Valley Sea Kayaks, Silverbirch Canoes, Bamboo Clothing, MSR, Canadian Affair, Osprey Rucksacks, Extreme Adventure Foods, Air North, Reed Chillcheater and Exposure Lights. You can follow his adventures through social media & @ www.richadventure.comSo you want to get off-grid, rewild, and enjoy the great outdoorsHow to develop wilderness guide skills and qualifications. Paddle UK, our National Governing Body (NGB) for paddlesport, all things canoeing, kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding, introduced guide modules some time ago to provide a pathway for expeditions and trips and to build knowledge, so people can tackle them safely and responsibly. The framework consists of five modules, offered through a network of qualified coaches, followed by a period of consolidation and then endorsement, to be signed off upon completion of at least three modules. The five core modules are:1) Trip Planning and Organisation,2) Campcraft and Expedition Skills,3) Environmental and Sustainability,4) Customer Experience (hosting) and5) Leadership.In this series of articles, Richard Harpham FRGS and Ashley Kenlock will unwrap the guide modules further and help make them more accessible to experienced paddlers and leaders. Rich recently completed his 15,000th mile of human-powered expeditions alongside his wife and co-director of Canoe Trail, Ashley Kenlock. The first module we will explore is trip planning and organisation, which will help paddlers, clubs, and groups plan trips in the UK and overseas.Top tip: Paint your adventure canvas your way, whether its wildlife, time spent with friends, following a historic route or a challenge, they are all valid. Consider the craft you want to paddle and its suitability for the environment and plan.Planning and researchThere are plenty of useful acronyms and sayings to help shape this element of the trip; often, a pitfall is failure to spend time on this aspect. One saying: Fail to Prepare, then Prepare to Fail! Or the six Ps Prior Planning Prevents P*ss Poor Performance! For us, as professional adventurers, one of the most useful aspects of our day job is good old-fashioned maps and books. These can be supplemented with Google Maps imagery and by searching for previous trip reports.Top tip: Visit charity shops and Facebook to find old guidebooks that others are relinquishing from their collections. Be aware that some maps may not show all features and hazards of a river, coastal corridor, or open water.Weather and environmental conditionsWe often blame weather forecasters for strong winds, rain, and other inclement conditions, but in reality, it is not an exact science. Understanding the weather system and forecast in our experience usually requires several sources, local knowledge where possible and constant revisit of the position as time ticks by. We often say, The Best You will Achieve Against the Weather is a Score Draw, in other words, you wont beat it.We use a range of weather sources and apps, including Windy, Windfinder Pro, Met Office and weather forecasts with synoptic charts. The wider environmental conditions will include other factors such as the catchment area of a river system, overfalls and tide races on the sea and fetch and wind patterns on open water.On our expedition planning courses, we always caution the perils of open water, lakes and lochs, which can often look calm and then whip up into waves and hazards such as capsize or dumping (as they say in north America and Canada). Of course, ambient temperature and water temperature play a significant role in our survival times.Top tip: Dont challenge yourself at the max endurance or intensity on expeditions such as waves, strong currents, wind, big rapids, and/or heavily laden craft. Try to get some experience in those conditions before you face the eye of the storm!Handy hint: Consider whether learning the ropes with a guide, a leader, or a company is the best way to navigate the learning curve safely.Equipment and kitOver the years, we have learnt from military friends, take a bow Roger Palin, ex Royal Marine Adventurous Training Instructor, the importance of understanding your equipment use, repair and contingency well. Their attention to detail of how the kit works well, not so well and can be repaired if needs be is incredible. A useful acronym for understanding contingency is PACE: P = Primary, A = Alternative, C = Contingency and E = Emergency.On our expeditions, we usually have at least one backup system and processes to help in the event of kit failure or an incident.Part of the decision about equipment choice will be your trip duration, the extent of the wilderness and difficult environment, and a range of other factors. Often, when giving talks at events, I have delivered a presentation called How Short is your toothbrush? Sir Ran Fiennes, who endorsed our book and several expeditions, decided on his polar trip that he couldnt afford the weight of the toothbrush and toiletries. Extreme, but determining luxuries, contingencies and understanding the difference between needs and wants can really make a difference to your pack weight and overall success and enjoyment.Top tip: Test your equipment and back-ups thoroughly.Border crossings, permits, visas and local culturesOf course, it seems fairly straightforward to set a course on the trail; for us, that means human-powered, but there are times when it is more complicated . For example, crossing borders solo or with friends under your own steam, you risk travelling without the right permit or visa. While sea kayaking the Channel and the Strait of Gibraltar, we were required to register our kayaks with a small craft number and to have a pilot craft.Crossing the border from the Yukon to Alaska, then the border force required a full 10-year visa, as you could not travel on an E Visa. Failure to comply would result in a permanent exclusion from the United States as an illegal alien.Handy hint: Check in with the FCO (Foreign and Commonwealth Office) before travel and research local issues.Top tip: Take time to understand customs, rituals, and geopolitical situations. Local travel to the start or finish point may be one of your riskier elements.My Rich Adventure: Over the years, I have had police escorts and even a safe house, been stuck in a riot, and abandoned by our pick-up plane.Inoculations and medicalMore recently, I read through John Goddards epic account from his 1952 descent of the River Nile from source to sea in canvas-on-frame old school kayaks. The book is a masterpiece of understatement, and they are charged by hippos, attacked by crocs, nearly drowned, and more besides.One of the elements that struck me about the era was the limits of medical knowledge at the time, which have advanced significantly since then. From sleeping sickness to malaria, waterborne parasites, Lyme disease and other bacterial infections, they endured tough times. Nowadays, get specific medical advice, GP inoculations and more to stay safe. Understanding the medical services in the country and the availability of drugs and emergency assistance in the event of an incident is important.Top tips: prevention is better than cure, avoid bites and illness, especially when risking tropical diseases.Complete a wilderness medical first aid course and expand your medical knowledge and first aid kit.My Rich Adventure: During my London to Marrakech bike and kayak expedition, I suffered a random and unexpected full anaphylactic shock episode, which was quite scary and resulted in injections of antihistamines in my backside, the last thing you want after hours in the cockpit and saddle! (see the video on YouTube @canoetrails).Equally important is understanding how to conduct a suitable risk assessmentThere is a risk of the turkey trap (everything is going well until Christmas also known as the heuristic trap) and Whalley box colliding (you dont know what you dont know)! Make sure you thoroughly consider hazards, the risks and how you may control or reduce them. My expeditions have included operating in hazardous environments, including minus 50 ambient temperatures, travelling over frozen rivers, large open-water crossings by sea kayak, cycling in Africas wilder areas, avalanches, sandstorms, and many more. Part of the trick is to consider control factors and mitigation to reduce risks (see table on opposite page).Top tips: Try scenario mapping the different events that could happen from accidents to equipment failure , from weather to illness and map out what could be done next.Prevention is better than cure; make solid plans and apply suitable control measures to reduce risks. Review again and again to ensure solid plans.Handy hint: Understand wildlife risks, especially when unfamiliar with the area. I have witnessed the joy of adventure in wilderness environments, among many stunning animals that could pose a threat. These have included bears (brown and grizzly), wolves, lynx, humpback whales, orcas, snakes and more.My Rich Adventure: There are many amusing videos on @canoetrails YouTube channel of misadventures and close encounters, including a near miss with a 40-ton humpback whale and getting surrounded by Orcas.Finally, consider the most critical component: your team or crew.On my first adventures, the Big 5 kayak challenge, we recruited teammates from our Viking Kayak club. This led to a motley crew with a plan to complete five challenges for charity; there were, understandably, differences in fitness levels, skills, desires, commitments, and other factors. Over time, we have learnt to consider roles such as medical skills, being a good navigator, and being a leader, among others.Mapping out roles and considering different scenarios can help determine what people really want to achieve and how much of it they want. Is cost, fundraising and duration an issue? Ironing out these things in advance helps reduce friction and disagreements. On our Canoe Trail expeditions, we organise optional training opportunities that help reduce stress as people get to know their guides, and, as importantly, we conduct medical and expedition screening, as well as a pre-exped zoom meeting.It is worth considering appetites for risk, personal paddling skills, fitness, and how group members react under the psychological demands of expeditions and life on the trail.Top tip: Organise a team training challenge that emulates the exped levels, even if only for a day or two. Review any learning points.Handy hints: Develop the team through shorter paddling days and perhaps overnight trips before tackling long multi-day expeditions, such as a week-long expedition. Check in with people about how they are coping physically and psychologically. We use a 10-point scale and introduce the lights on the dashboard concept, allowing participants to provide feedback without peer pressure.ConclusionsA good team, a solid plan with some contingency and a can-do attitude will get you a long way. It is humbling and inspiring to spend time in remote locations, and our 15,000 miles of human-powered adventures feel like just the warm-up. You can see our full range of UK and overseas expeditions, including Algonquin, Finland, and the Yukon, at www.canoetrail.co.uk.Of course, as a predominantly experiential learning species, we do all prefer to learn by doing, so why not attend some of the one-day guide modules to learn in practical, bite-sized chunks? Like most skills, it is best when we practice with expert tutors and keep things fresh. Rich and the Canoe Trail team are running the guide modules starting early Spring 2026, with training and consolidation to share knowledge. Drop us a line at admin@canoetrail.co.uk.The next article in the wilderness guide module series is Campcraft and Expedition Skills, where we will be unpacking more topics. Finally, as writers, we are proud of our Great British Paddling Adventures guidebook, which features over 50 routes and almost 100 paddling days. You can buy a signed copy from us for 18, including P&P.

Words: Steve BrooksPhotos: Steve Brooks & Ute HeppkeSteve BrooksSteve Brooks Steve has lived in Austria for over 28 years. It is a beautiful part of the world, with world-class rivers and stunning mountain scenery. In 2010, he set up, along with Ute, Kayak School Arlberg, where they run courses, coaching, and guiding kayakers through all whitewater grades on rivers such as the Sanna, Oetz, Lech, and Inn with his professional team. Since 2024, the Kayak School has been running British Canoeing whitewater leadership courses and Safety and Rescue courses in both Austria and Chile.Steve and Ute have now built a stunning house in the mountains above the kayaking mecca that is Pucon, Chile. Along with their Chilean team, they offer trips and expeditions to Chile from November through to March. To find out more, check out their website: www.gokayaking.atPure Patagonia white water kayakingIt had been a while since both Ute and I had been on an adventure together. So with a terrible snowpack back home in Austria, Ute suggested that she could join me in Chile in the New Year! It did not take long for me to think about it, and within 24 hours, her flights were booked, and I started planning an adventure into the heart of Patagonia.The plan was to go kayaking on a river we had never been on and to explore a part of Patagonia that we had never seen. We spent a week or so at our house in Pucon, getting our truck ready for the roads in Patagonia and also having a frame made for carrying our mini-motocross motorbike, and with a few more spares bought in Pucon, we were ready to start our journey south into Patagonia.Crossing the border into ArgentinaThe ferry from Horno Piren to Chaitn was fully booked, so we crossed into Argentina via the Cardenal Antonia Samor Pass. It is one of the main passes in the south to cross, and though we have heard horror stories of spending hours at each border checkpoint, it actually went rather smoothly. We had the correct paperwork for the truck, motorbike, kayaks, and equipment, which was greatly appreciated by both checkpoints.After finishing immigration in Argentina, the customs agent beckoned us to him and, after a quick chat in Spanish, explaining what was on the roof, the idea behind the motorbike and our plans, he was blown away. We ended up talking to him for quite a while, as he found what we were doing truly fascinating, so much so that a queue of vehicles formed behind us. We finally said goodbye to the customs agent, got a few tips on places to visit on the Argentine side of Patagonia, and were not long before we were driving through Villa Angostura via the 7 Lakes Road on our way to San Carlos de Bariloche.The views were incredible, and it brought back memories of our first time in this area in 2003 when we came to ski. The area around Bariloche is similar to the British Lake District but on a scale much, much bigger. We continued our journey past Bariloche, hoping to reach El Bolson, a small village at the foothills of the Patagonian Andes.However, the weather and the Argentine roads had other ideas, and we ended up staying the night in Rio Villegas, halfway between El Bolson and Bariloche. The wind had picked up, the rain was falling, and the temperature was dropping fast. We found a wooden cabin available, the lovely family got the fire burning, and within a few minutes, the cabin was warming up! The next day, we woke up to a dusting of snow on the mountain tops and clear blue skies.We were stopped at a police checkpoint on the other side of El Bolson. Again, they were super friendly and helpful, and we spent some time talking at the checkpoint while a queue formed behind us! We found out that the road was open now after catastrophic fires had ripped through the area. We continued down the Ruta 40, and it was not long before the acrid smell of smoke, burning and devastation hit us. It was horrendous.We could see where the fires had crossed the road and a few farms that had miraculously avoided being destroyed. Unfortunately, they were the few! This ski town of Esquel was the next town we passed through on our way to Trevelin, the last settlement before the border crossing back into Chile.What is interesting about Trevelin is that it was formed by Welsh settlers, and you can still see signs in Welsh, including houses, farms and hotel names in Welsh. There is also a Banco de Gales.Back into ChileWe left the beauty of a tarmac road, and what followed was a washboard all the way to the border. With another effortless border crossing, we were back in Chile and heading towards the Rio Futaleufu. Just downstream of the village is the Monastario and Ficos house. We wanted to make a quick pit stop at the Monastario to surprise Fico, whom we had known since our first time in Peru back in 2002.I have worked a lot with Fico on my private guest trips to Peru, and his personality, humour and stories are something to behold. In fact, we made a fair few stories and history together, including one about a parrot in the Amazon, which is for another day. He is an absolute legend in the world of rafting in South America and is loved by everyone. Unfortunately for us, he was not there!So we left a Kayak School Arlberg sticker with a message on the back tucked into the front door and continued our journey. Two days later, we received a message from Fico saying he found our message, was so happy to hear we were going to pay a surprise visit, and, of course, was gutted that he missed us!What, no Futaleufu!?You may be wondering why we did not stop at the Rio Futaleufu? The plan was to kayak and explore somewhere we had never been to before, and we had kayaked on the Futaleufu quite a few times. Also, once we had seen just how many people, kayaks, rafts and vehicles were at the put-in for the Bridge to Bridge section, we were happy to head away from the crowds and look for that part of Patagonia that was quieter and less known.It was not long until we left the washboard roads and joined the famous Carretera Austral. Route number 7 goes from Puerto Montt all the way down to Villa OHiggins. The total length of the Ruta 7 is some 1,240km through the heart of Chiles Patagonia, and as one of our guests once said, It is a trip of a lifetime in itself, and we were adding whitewater kayaking to the trip!The weather had changed, the clouds had come in, and it was raining off and on when we finally arrived in La Junta, a small enclave on the Ruta 7 and also the gateway to the Lago Verde Valley and the Rio Figueroa. The cabaas we found were amazing; they had only just been built the year before and had full mod cons, giving us a nice, warm and cosy place to base ourselves.Patagonia and the Region Aysn, ChileWe wanted to kayak the Rio Figueroa the following day; however, the weather had other plans, and with decent internet access at our accommodation, we saw that within the next 48 hours, high pressure was going to build over us for around five days.There is a saying down in Patagonia that roughly translates to: Those who try to rush their journey in Patagonia are only doomed to failure!The next day, we scouted sections of the Rio Figueroa, checked out other nearby rivers, and looked for contact details of Gauchos who could transport our kayaks and equipment. As rain continued, we monitored the weather forecast and decided to head to Lago Verde the following day, planning to stay the night there. We stocked up on supplies, packed for the river, and enjoyed a local Patagonia beer and meal.To Lago VerdeWe were back on gravel and washboard, driving up to Lago Verde. We had dropped off the motorcycle at the take-out, then roughly halfway up to Lago Verde, we saw a sign to the river. As we peeled off the main track, we were now using a 44, making our way towards where the road gets close to the river. We met a farmer by the side of the track and ended up talking to him for about half an hour. His name was Luis, and he said that once we came back from viewing the river, we should stop and have a mat (a local hot drink that is similar to green tea, which you drink through a metal straw).We continued down to the river, thankful for our 44, as parts of the track were completely off-limits to a car! We got to see the Rio Figueroa and noted the distinct markers for reference as we kayaked past before heading back up for a mat with Luis.We walked down to his farmhouse and were invited in.Fueled by mat, we followed Luis around his proud farm as he shared his vision to restore the lands natural state after the previous owners sheep had turned much of it into grazing. Luiss efforts to plant local bushes and trees were inspiring. He embraced living off the land in Patagonias beauty, earning a living by selling around 460kg of raspberries each season, including the wild varieties. Beehives helped pollinate his fruit bushes, while dogs guarded the farm from pumas wandering nearby forests and mountains. We spent hours talking about life in Patagonia before saying goodbye, promising to visit again.Back on the washboard road to Lago Verde, we glimpsed the Rio Figueroa as we neared the confluence of the Rio Pico. Suddenly, we saw eight Andean condors soaring high in the sky. Ute quickly grabbed her binoculars, and we pulled over to watch these impressive birds glide above the peaks of the Patagonian Andes. We then continued to Lago Verde, arriving late in the afternoon.In Lago Verde, we were trying to find a room; we thought it would be extremely easy, since the enclave is in the middle of nowhere, but it turned out to be quite complicated. We headed to the only restaurant in town, ordered a late lunch and asked the Seora if she knew anyone with a room available? As she was the only restaurant in town, she knew everyone, and by the time lunch came out, we had managed to get the only room left in Lago Verde!The whole village has rented out its rooms and cabins to the workers who are installing a new canal system and a tarmac road just outside the village. Ute and I had a single bed to share for the night, but we were happy; we had a roof over our heads, and we were away from the strong wind howling through the village.Lago Verde has an end of the world feel. You can actually cross the border to Argentina; however, after Lago Verde, there is no road, just a track from Chile, where you have to cross two rivers before crossing into Argentina, where again there is no road and no track to the village, far, far away. I popped in to see the Carabineros (police) to explain what we were going to do and also to say that our truck would be parked next to the put-in for the next 3-4 days.Simon, a policeman sent to the outpost at Lago Verde, was not keen on our leaving our truck by the side of the road. He suggested we come via the police station in the morning, and he would come with us to the put-in, then drive our truck back to the police station for safekeeping! It was unbelievable just how helpful and friendly everyone was down in this part of Patagonia.That night, the wind howled, and it felt as though the house we were staying in was swaying around. It was a bit snug for both of us in the single bed, but again, we were happy to be out of the elements!Rio FigueroaThe next morning, we picked up Officer Simon early from the police station, drove to the put-in, packed our kit and loaded the kayaks for the next three days. Simon was extremely interested in how we packed our kayaks and what we were taking for the next three days. He was pretty impressed that we could fit everything into the stern of our kayaks.We waved him goodbye, put in on the Rio Pico, and within five minutes we got to the confluence and entered the Rio Figueroa. The sun was out, the wind had stopped, and we were finally kayaking a river we had never done before!What hit us immediately was the strength of the current; yes, we were in Patagonia, where the rivers are bigger, but with the past four days of rain, the river had risen.We were kayaking through some nice, warm-up rapids, getting used to the flow, the strength, and the gradient of each rapid. Then all of a sudden, the river started to close in, the forest was right down by the riverside, and as we came around the corner, we could see the first major rapid, El Diablo (the Devil). From a river about 100m wide, it closed in and was squeezed into a box canyon.The current was heading to a big rock, with waves that were difficult to see over. We set up on river right and worked our way across the big waves to avoid the wall on the right, where all the water was pushing to. The boils were huge on the left, and it was a matter of staying on the left side of the main current to avoid getting sucked down by the huge boils. After El Diablo, it flattened out, and we were able to take in the stunning scenery, where the forest hung off the cliffs, imposing directly above us.It was just a short distance to the next major rapid, called Pinball. So what is usually moving between rocks all the way down the 300m rapid turned into avoiding some seriously big holes, punching through a few smaller ones and sneaking a line just river right of the huge hole that seemed to be swallowing up the majority of the water at the bottom of the rapid. Yes, the river was certainly higher than normal, and this got us wondering whether the portage further downstream would be runnable or at least have some sneak lines through it?We continued kayaking downstream, making good speed until we found an island in the river with a nice bit of sand where we could pitch our tent. We took a late lunch, found a shady spot, and then just relaxed, watching the condors soar way above us.The evening and night were uneventful, and we managed to get a fair few hours of sleep. The morning brought a mist over the river, which was extraordinary to see, with the deep blue Patagonia sky and the sun working its way out from behind the mountainside. With the mist disappearing while eating our breakfast, once finished, we packed up and continued down the Rio Figueroa. The first little rapid reminded us of the character of this river, with the boils catching the sterns of our kayaks and giving us a freestyle ride to the end of the rapid, where the river released us. What felt like minutes, but was actually a few kilometres, we came to the portage.The Lord of the RingsThe rapid is called The Lord of the Rings and is broken down into three parts, each with a small pool between them. We went to scout the first and second drops, only to realise that the higher water level had left us with no lines safe enough to kayak. Just a few huge holes where the main current was sending you, and with some syphons by the sides. It quickly became apparent that we would be walking our kayaks and equipment around the first two rapids.We checked out a possible route up in the forest on the rivers left side, and it seemed the best option. We climbed back down and pulled the first kayak up and away from the riverside, into the forest, before going back down for the second kayak. That was the plan for the portage: I would drag the kayak with my rescue sling and carabiner, while Ute would help push it along and lift it up or lower it down at the back using her rescue sling and carabiner.A Patagonia forest is unlike anything else we have encountered around the world. The trees were twisted together, and bamboo was sprouting between them, making it even more difficult to get through. Add to this the vines, prickly bushes and moss, only brought more suffering! We were moving slowly, struggling to keep the kayaks on what can only be called a slight opening in the forest; it was far from a track! As we got just past the second rapid, I took a quick look and realised it would be easier to kayak to the right bank and portage the last rapid from there.Now it was just a matter of kayaking over the huge rivers wide boils to get over to the start of the last part of the portage. This time, however, we were not going through the forest, but up and over huge boulders by the side of the river. By the time we finished the portage, we were drenched in sweat and shattered. I completely stripped off, wrung out my kayaking kit and thermals, then put them onto various hot boulders to try and dry out. I then plonked myself first in a pool of water and, finally, onto a flat rock to take a rest. The portage had taken us three hours to complete, and we were tired, extremely tired.There was not much of an option to camp here, and we were not even halfway down the river, so after taking in a lot of fluids and a boost of sugar, we carried on down.There were plenty of rapids to keep us smiling, be it running big waves, making moves to avoid some serious holes, keeping the kayak from going vertical on the boils and scouting now and again, we were full on in expedition white water kayaking mode!We arrived at a lovely beach with shade and plenty of vegetation, which kept the wind from blowing against our tent. We took a late lunch, and with smiles on our faces from a great day of expedition kayaking, we decided to camp here. We refuelled, hydrated and just took in our surroundings of being alone in the heart of Patagonia, only for a wild boar to come down and start a staring competition! Luckily for us, it gave up and retreated back into the forest.That evening and night went by quietly, and as we were fully energised and ready to go, we set off early the next morning. We still had not reached the halfway point, but it was not far downstream, and within the first hour, we kayaked past the point we had visited with our truck on the way up. There were signs of human life now, and for the next few kilometres before we came in for a big surprise. The river squeezed in again, and with a huge rock blocking much of the entrance from what we could see in the last eddy above the rapid, we realised it would be extremely difficult to portage, as the entrance led to a deep canyon.It looked as though, if we kept on the seam line between the canyon wall and the huge rock, we could make a line through the entrance of the gorge; then it was just a matter of negotiating the huge boils for the next 50 metres. I led us through, and, with a bit of bad luck, the timing of the seam line shifted, pushing me over to the right into some massive boils, where I was stuck waiting for them to blow out. Ute styled the entrance and was now dealing with the boils in the gorge.IncredibleNeedless to say, we got through without rolling over and were given a huge reward in the gorge; it was stunning. The forest was above us; trees grew in small pockets between the cliff walls, and water dripped from the roots into the river. We just sat in our kayaks, letting the current turn our boats so we could see different aspects of the gorge. It was incredible!As we exited the gorge, the river opened up, and we saw the road now and again. The steepness of the river mellowed out, and we were making good time, cruising down the rapids and even managing to surf some green, glassy waves!The weather was still with us, deep blue skies and a blistering sun high above. The river was really mellowing out, and we knew it could not be far now until we reached the lake. Around one corner, the mountains opened up, and we could see snowcapped peaks with hanging glaciers in the distance. These were all hidden by clouds and rain when we were in La Junta, so it was amazing to see these impressive mountains and peaks from the valley floor!We arrived at Lake Rosselot and stopped for a snack and to capture some stunning photos of the river flowing into the lake with snowcapped mountains in the distance. In fact, every time we turned around or looked in a different direction, there was another snowcapped peak and hanging glacier at the end.It certainly made the flat paddle out over the lake more interesting. The only problem we had was to work out which part of the lake fed into the Rio Rosselot, where our motorbike was patiently waiting! After an hour of paddling, we made it to the take-out with huge smiles on our faces.However, it was not the end of the expedition as I would now have to ride the 60km of dirt road from the take-out back to Lago Verde on our mini-motocross bike! Some 30km into the shuttle, I blew the front tyre and ripped the chain off the sprocket. I managed to get the chain back on, but there was no possibility of repairing the blown tyre, where is the Indian Puncture Wala when you need them? With no one driving along the track, I continued with a blown-out front tyre for the remaining 30km to the Police station.By the time I got there, my wrists, elbows and shoulders were in bits from the shuddering and hits they took from a wheel with no air in the tyre! Officer Simon heard me arriving and came out with a big grin on his face. He was happy to see me; I was certainly happy to see him. After a quick chat, we said our goodbyes and hoped to see each other again the following year!I made a pit stop at the restaurant to buy some chips that were dripping with oil and fat. I did not care; they tasted so good. By the time I got to Ute, her chips were still warm, and I was not too sure whether the smile on her face was the relief that I made it up safely on the mini motocross bike or the chips I was holding out in front of me! Either way, she gave me a big hug, ate the chips, and we packed up and headed back to La Junta.What a river the Figueroa is! The whole trip was amazing, and I did not even write about the journey back north to Pucon. A big thanks goes to Rick for the background info, the people we met along the way, and to Patagonia. The locals from the Rio Figueroa, Luis and his farm, Officer Simon at the end of the world police station and Leo, who has given us some great information about another river close by. It all made for a truly memorable trip into the heart of Patagonia, away from the crowds and the hype of other, more infamous rivers in the area, into a place we fell instantly in love with. This is Pure Patagonia!Background InformationGetting there: Either by road via Argentina or via ferry, staying in Chile if travelling south, or you could fly into Coyhaique and then drive northwards.Climate: Its Patagonia, so expect four seasons in one day and a lot of wind!Language: It is purely a Spanish-speaking area; we did not hear any English or other languages while we were in the valley. It would be extremely challenging to do this if you do not speak at least basic Spanish. Though the Chilean Patacon dialect takes time to understand!Shuttle: There are no shuttle options, so make sure you either have a motorbike set up if you are on your own, a driver, or two vehicles.Ruta 7: Make sure you have spares for your vehicle, as there are few people around, especially when you come off the Ruta 7.

Words:Guy BakerPhotos:Guy Baker &Esther DanielGuy BakerBioGuy now lives in New Zealand, where he continues planning trips worldwide. He can be contacted at: guy@catalystglobal.comwww.catalystglobal.comThe long way to New Ireland: Sea kayaking PNGTo boldly go where few have gone before and live to talk about it. That was the simple plan.Its not quite the Starship Enterprise, but sea kayaking is one of the best ways to explore the far edges of our planet. I started in white water, having paddled many of the worlds great rivers, so saltwater was inevitable. In 2010, that curiosity led me across Bass Strait 260 kilometres of unpredictable water made famous by the Sydney to Hobart yacht race and its wild weather. January seemed as good a time as any. We made it across safely, and from then on, I was always searching for the next challenge on the ocean and on rivers. Preferably one that did not involve large ocean crossings, which, while high on the danger level, was not the most interesting for me. Pepper the sea with islands much better.Then I heard about New Ireland, off the north coast of Papua New Guinea, and I was hooked. The islands were full of spice, and the people matched their vibrancy.People have lived there for 30,000 to 40,000 years, with ancient traditions and a complex colonial history: German rule from 1885 to 1914. Then came the Australian administration, the Japanese occupation during WWII, and subsequent Australian rule again until independence in 1975. PNG was about to celebrate 50 years of independence with its biggest tribal gathering since 1975. I knew I had to be there.Most visitors flew into Port Moresby for the celebrations. We did the opposite. We headed into the Highlands Mount Hagen and Lae. On 16 September, Independence Day, we stood among thousands of Highlanders dressed in ceremonial splendour: tall, feathered headdresses; necklaces of shell and horn; grass-and-bead skirts; and bodies painted with bold, intricate designs. We were five white faces in a sea of colour, culture, and history. New Britain is either very exciting or a nightmare, depending on your point of view and confidence that it will all be OK.PhallocryptsEvery man wore a koteka traditional penis sheaths that signal tribal identity. I even learned a new word: phallocrypts. These decorative ceremonial sheaths are made from gourds or woven fibres and are adorned with feathers, beads, and shells. Thats a Scrabble win if Ive ever seen one. https://westpapuavoice.ac/social-culture/koteka-a-timeless-symbol-of-papuas-highland-identity-masculinity-and-cultural-wisdom/Yes, there were weapons. And yes, tribal violence still happens. In 2023, more than 150 people were killed in fighting in the Highlands. With limited law enforcement and rough terrain separating many tribes, we were understandably cautious. But instead, we found huge smiles, warmth, and generosity. It went beyond anything we expected. Relieved and very much alive, we set out for the coast and our real goal: kayaking the length of the New Ireland archipelago.After some online searching, I had found a few abandoned sea kayaks left by another expedition. We made a deal. When we arrived, everyone seemed concerned. Apparently, the last kayak group was eaten, which is why the kayaks were abandoned! PNG people have a great sense of humour, we hoped.PNG is a land unto itself, so who knows whats happened or could happen its an ongoing attraction and what puts a lot of people off ever setting foot in the place, together with its remoteness, no backpacker industry at all, and generally a difficult and expensive place to get around. We were strongly advised to hire a guide who could kayak. Not an easy task, but eventually we found Winston, who, for a reasonable cost, joined us and cheerfully said, I know the way. You have nothing to worry about.Of course, my anxious mind pictured this as a plot to make three kayakers vanish in the most remote part of PNG. I packed an EPIRB, knowing that if rescue ever came, it would probably be too late. Not exactly comforting. Winston proved priceless, taking us to villages seldom, if ever, visited by non-PNG people, and everyone seemed to know him or be related to him. We never felt threatened until that one night. More to come below.Non-stop 35-degree daysWe flew to Kavieng, loaded the kayaks, and paddled west, riding the prevailing winds. The sun rose behind us as we started early to avoid the worst of the afternoon heat. Just south of the equator, New Ireland delivered non-stop 35-degree days. The sea was almost as warm. There was no escape. Staying hydrated became the real challenge.For a week, we hopped from island to island through places outsiders rarely visit, surprised by how many people lived in this remote part of the world. Coconuts were everywhere copra is still the fourth-largest cash crop in PNG. Life felt timeless, but mobile phones worked, and everyone knew who we were. Even here, the world feels small.On more than one occasion, the local created a celebration just for us, inviting people from nearby islands. Singing, drumming, and dancing lasted all night. Most people were chewing buai, a mixture of betel nut, lime, and shell. Its a strong stimulant and relaxant thats common across PNG, now the largest per capita consumer. These guys seemed more powered up than just Beetlejuice, but whatever fuelled them, the energy at night was powerful.Having failed to buy or release a large Sea turtle, those gathered on one particular island were especially high on the turtles rich meat, so we retired to bed early.At 02:00, four silhouettes appeared over Esthers tent.This, I thought, might be how it ends.when I am even older, and stories and reality become increasingly blurred.Christianity and tribal traditionsPNG is off the beaten path; its not easy, but FIXERS are connected through several operators to the outside world. With an economy based on mining and copra, there is a lot of money sloshing around at the top while the majority of the people live a life blended with Christianity and tribal traditions. I have visited three times now, and it never ceases to amaze me how different it is from so much of our commoditised tourism.You are pretty much guaranteed a more than interesting experience if you make the effort to get there. Plan, but leave yourself some margin for time and money, as nothing goes entirely to plan. A white water kayak descent of the Sepik River, in our case, turned into a navigation of the New Ireland archipelago, and there are plenty more unexplored island chains for the adventurous paddler.

Words:Nathan Watt Photos:Cliff WoodNathan WattNathan is an instructor at Aldercreek Kayak and Canoe https://aldercreek.comWild and scenic on the Middle ForkThe Middle Fork of the Salmon River is a pristine stretch of water winding through the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness in Idaho. Designated as a National Wild and Scenic River, it offers paddlers a remarkable journey through deep canyons and remote landscapes. Along its many twists and turns, visitors can discover natural hot springs, ancient Native American rock art, and a variety of rapids ranging from Class II to Class IV, depending on river flows.A small airfield in Salmon, IdahoIt was late August, and summer was fading, yet I could still feel the intense sun beating on the back of my neck at the small airfield in Salmon, Idaho. Our crew shuffled around, loading gear onto the scale for our flight into Indian Creek on the Middle Fork Salmon River. We needed to weigh and distribute the gear evenly to avoid overloading the plane. With nine people, a couple of kayaks, and a raft, we carried a manageable amount of equipment. After weighing everything, we lingered by the runway, letting anticipation build. I was eager to begin the trip.When it came time to load the planes, we divided into three groups. I was in the first group, responsible for pumping up and loading the rafts. The idea of flying in for a trip like this made me feel like Indiana Jones about to embark on a daring journey minus the headhunters and double agents.The flight was beautiful as we slipped over desolate ridges and green pines. Our Sky Captain, a nickname given to the pilot by a sarcastic friend, humoured us with a sudden dip of the wing after we requested a barrel roll.Flying in something that small feels like driving a Volkswagen buggy through the air you feel every bump. As the Indian Creek landing strip came into view, the pilot reduced the throttle, making my heart jump. He executed a tight turn, lined us up, and dropped the plane onto a very small runway. A storm was rolling in, and I knew my friends on the next flights were in for a different experience. Judging by their faces, I was right. Overall, Gem Air gets five stars for professionalism and for delivering us safely in poor weather. These guys are pros.We pumped the rafts and loaded our gear, inflating thwarts to use as rollers down the steep ramp similar to how the Egyptians built the pyramids. That Indiana Jones feeling returned.A rough nightThe rain came down hard as we scrambled to set up camp. With the mix of rain and sand, I knew I was in for a rough night. Still, with the river at 1.5 feet, I was grateful for the potential bump in water level. I crawled into my tent with sand-covered legs and tried to brush them off before sliding into my semi-wet sleeping bag. The last thing I remember was watching a drop of water fall from the top of my tent and land on my sleeping bag every fifteen seconds. I told myself, If you fall asleep, it will be over.Morning came, and the rain was still sputtering. The river had come up maybe half a foot and looked like chocolate milk. Things were looking good and soggy. Before launching, we were given a presentation about the salmon life cycle by a volunteer at the launch site. She was a kind older woman who unexpectedly pinched my cheek and said, Oh wow, youre cute, in a non-threatening motherly way. I giggled and thought, This is a pleasant way to start the morning. It was interesting to hear about the journey salmon take throughout their short lives, along with her theatrical salmon mating dance. They swim from the Salmon River to the Columbia River mouth, then head north to the San Juans. After feeding and socialising, they return to Idaho to spawn. Thinking about it gave me deep respect for these creatures and made me physically tired just imagining the swim.We launched with some hope, knowing we were approaching the first hot spring of the trip. Fog danced across the milky water as we made our way through the rain. After some fun class IIIII rapids, we rounded the corner and saw steam rising from Sunflower Hot Springs.As we arrived, the sun poked out. I peeled off my ten-year-old Immersion Research Super Model Drytop, recently revived with new gaskets, and to my surprise, it was still dry. The spring offered a stunning panoramic view from a high cliffside and a hot waterfall you could stand under to wash away your river sins. While soaking, I chatted with some east coast paddlers and swapped stories of the Youghiogheny, Cheat, and Savage River.A few more miles brought us to State Land Camp, where the sun allowed us to spread out and dry our gear. Ive always appreciated starting a trip with a Type Two Fun suffer-fest it makes you grateful for sunshine and warm food.On our second day, we had several miles to cover before reaching Hospital Bar Camp. We hit some minor rapids, the most notable being Jackass Rapid. In a kayak, it was an easy move, with the biggest hazard being a giant rock near the bottom. The raft styled it.Hospital BarHospital Bar was an open area on the rivers left side, sheltered by towering pines. This site was once used as a hunting ground by tribes such as the Nez Perce and Shoshone-Bannock. With canyon walls, a hot spring, and trails leading into the hills, I could see why people would have gravitated to this oasis. I imagined tribes gathering, trading, hunting, and holding ceremonies. I wandered around looking for signs of those who came before.On a distant cliff, I saw a small sign hanging from a tree. I considered climbing up to it, but kept thinking about the rattlesnakes Id meet on the way. Through binoculars, I still couldnt read it. I guess itll remain a mystery.Hot springI woke up early that morning so I could have a soak in the hot spring before my companions started milling about. It was a very small spring and right at river level. I collected some rocks and tried to hold as much hot water as I could in this small, sandy pocket, making a little tub just big enough for my lower body. I felt the hot water trickling down the rock onto my back as I watched the mist dance across the water.The sun slowly rose, illuminating the canyon walls and bringing out the various reds and pinks of the surrounding geology. Once again, I found myself thinking about the native people who had sat in this exact same spot hundreds of years ago, experiencing this same view. In that moment, I was reminded that people come and go, our lives are short, but the earth remains. We are always walking over each others footprints.Leaving Hospital Bar, we knew we were approaching the Tappin Falls series the biggest and most technical rapids so far. In my Jackson Antix 2, I knew Id have a sporty time. The group was mostly concerned about low water creating pin hazards for the rafts. Another kayaker and I moved ahead with radios to scout. We boofed, surfed, and made note of F-U rocks the ones perfectly positioned to ruin your day. Everyone had clean lines.We eddied out on the river left to scout Tappin Falls. At this level, there was a small slot on the river right for rafts. Another group ran it while we scouted, which helped. I planted a boof stroke and kept my bow high. Our rafts came through smoothly, and our anxiety dropped. Next was Cove Creek Rapid, with a small slot leading into a boulder garden. Our group made it fine, but the group behind us had a small hang-up and unpinned themselves by shifting weight around dogs included.We were excited to reach Trail Camp, knowing wed spend a layover day there. The campsite had stunning views and a trail along the river. I brought out my travel guitar and worked on some Sunny Pache tunes (my artist stage name) by the water. While hiking downstream, we stumbled upon a riverside resort selling ice cream, cold beer, and blocks of ice. A welcome surprise, considering our ice was disappearing fast. We stopped the next day again to restock. Our time at Trail Camp was spent relaxing, eating, hiking, and sipping cold drinks. The groover had a spectacular view nothing like waving at passing raft trips while taking care of business.Native American pictographsThroughout the trip, we stopped at two different locations with Native American pictographs. This was my favourite part of the trip. At both sites, the pictographs were on rock faces protected by an overhanging ledge, keeping them preserved for hundreds if not thousands of years.The red paintings depicted figures hunting animals and depictions of the rising sun. One seemed to illustrate human reproduction, or perhaps the origin of their people. Once again, I felt that overwhelming wow factor and those introspective thoughts about human existence. I kept thinking: here we are, coming down this river with all our accessories, trying to be comfortable, while these people lived out here, off the land, in the purest form of humanity.As I wrote this account of my time on the Middle Fork, I began to reflect on what matters most to me on a river trip. Whats truly memorable? At first, I wanted to detail every rapid, but I realised that isnt what I really care about. I care about the journey and the experience shared with people Im proud to call friends. I cherish the wildlife bighorn sheep, chukars, lizards, and even the snakes.At the end of my life, I wont remember my steeziest line or how many sub-par stern squirts I did. Ill remember the friendships, the camaraderie, the conversations, the land, and those who came before us. In the end, we cant get our time back. Like the river, our lives only move in one direction. So do what makes you happy jump in the current and make the most of it.AldercreekNathan is an instructor at Aldercreek Kayak and Canoe https://aldercreek.com