By Liam KirkhamLiam KirkhamLessons from the riverIve spent an ill-advised amount of time, money and energy on kayaking. Its taken me all over the world, and despite never being a great kayaker, Ive racked up a fair bit of experience. Im not kayaking as much as I used to, but looking back, I realise some of my biggest life lessons have been handed out by the river though that may say more about my lack of education than anything else.Before I begin, I want to set the stage for the kind of lessons youll encounter. Id like to share some of these lessons with you in a series of ten true stories. Expect tangents, pseudo-philosophy, solid advice, and utter nonsense. Ill leave it to you to decipher which is which as we transition between stories.Lets start with an early oneAt 16, I went to college to study outdoor sports. I thought climbing might be for me, but I got frustrated that if you arent great, you dont reach the top. Discovering that I could go down the whole river, even as the worst kayaker in the group, sealed my choice.I certainly wasnt a natural. I swam. I swam a lot. On one occasion, I swam three times in ten metres.I flipped on an eddy line as I came in and swam. I emptied my Necky Switch on the banks of the Lune and carefully got back on the water. Then, trying to exit the same eddy, I flipped again and had to empty my boat in the exact same spot before gingerly getting back on the water. This time, I managed to cross the eddy line, but as soon as I was in the flow, I flipped and swam again. At least this time, I was making progress downstream.Some days were better than others. Theres a paradoxical trickery to kayaking: to be good, you have to relax but you cant relax until youre good.We spent a lot of time in the minibus driving to rivers, and I later realised I was mentally fried by the time we reached the put-in. It wasnt that I was scared, but I certainly wasnt calm, relaxed, or zen. My brow was furrowed, my stomach in knots, anxious about how I would paddle that day. There was a direct correlation between how bad I felt at the put-in and how badly I paddled.The problem began in the minibusThe better kayakers would talk about water levels, what happened last time, swims, perfect lines, magnetic rocks, and near misses. It may have helped them prepare for the day, but it had the opposite effect on me. It overloaded my brain, spiked my adrenaline, and sent me down a rabbit hole of thoughts. An hour later, when we arrived at the river, I was already psychologically spent.I cant remember whether I consciously decided to take control of the situation or whether it was a happy accident, but I started bringing a book for the journey. While our lecturers drove and the bus filled with the usual kayak chat, Id get stuck into Harry Potter.I arrived at the river in a much better frame of mindIt wasnt that I was avoiding key information. Our instructor would give us a proper brief before we got our gear on the levels, the plan, what we were aiming to learn that day. That was what I needed to hear, and when I needed to hear it.I began to realise that the head game was a huge part of kayaking. That brings me back to Harry Potter and one of my favourite quotes, Tell me one last thing, said Harry. Is this real? Or has this been happening inside my head?Dumbledore beamed at him, and his voice sounded loud and strong in Harrys ears even though the bright mist was descending again, obscuring his figure.Of course it is happening inside your head, Harry, but why on earth should that mean that it is not real?Ive learned a lot about the head game since then, but that was my first real insight.Reflecting on those minibus trips and how the conversation, crowd, and company affected my day (or more precisely, how I let them affect my day) leads me to the first clear lesson from the river:Lesson 1: Be careful what you consume.

Words: Marc OrnsteinPhotos: Marc OrnsteinMarc OrnsteinFunctional vs interpretive FreeStyle canoeingSo, what is FreeStyle, and what is the difference between Functional FreeStyle and Interpretive FreeStyle? One of the best definitions of FreeStyle is The art and science of precision canoeing. That definition is a catchy phrase and quite accurate, but it requires more discussion.Freestyle is a canoeing discipline that emphasises the entire connection between the boat (canoe), the body (the paddler), and the blade (the paddle), maximising the effectiveness and efficiency of each element.Boat: Freestyle instruction fosters an understanding of how the hulls shape affects its movement through the water and how it can be effectively modified on the go by employing both heel (tipping the hull laterally) and pitch (tipping the hull fore or aft).This paddler is working on her right side; the quadrants are named based on that paddle position.Body refers to the connection of the paddlers body to the hull. Kneeling with ones butt against the forward edge of the seat or a kneeling thwart, with one knee in each chine (three points of contact), provides the most secure connection; however, maximising heel and pitch may require modifying or even converting the three-point connection to two points. In two-point, the paddler comes up on his knees, lifting his butt off the seat. Various knee positions are used to enhance both heel and pitch.A blade is the paddle that connects the paddler to the water. Through proficient, accurate use of the paddle, she creates and controls the canoes movement through the water.PhotosThe photos below show several of the FreeStyle manoeuvres, in their functional/practical application, and in their more dramatic interpretive performance versions.1. Functional Post Solo2. Interpretive Post Solo3. Functional Axel Solo4. Interpretive Axel Solo5. Functional Tandem Post6. Interpretive Tandem PostFreestyle canoeing consists of a series of basic manoeuvres that have been developed, along with a teaching curriculum based on them. While each manoeuvre is initially learned in the forward quadrant, a skilled practitioner of freestyle eventually learns how to apply those manoeuvres while travelling both forward and reverse, and on both the on-side and the cross side of the canoe. In other words, in all four quadrants. (Note: When paddling on the cross or off side of the canoe, the paddler maintains the same hand on paddle positions as when paddling on the on side. In other words, whichever hand was on the grip and whichever hand was on the shaft, while paddling on the side, remains so when paddling cross-side.Most freestyle techniques are developed from a functional standpoint. Various techniques/manoeuvres are used to navigate lakes and streams. On narrow, twisty streams or crenulated shores, freeStyle shines. The movements of the paddle, the paddler, and the canoe are fluid, seamless, and efficient.Outdoing each otherAs the discipline developed, humans being human, a bit of friendly competition developed as canoeists attempted to outdo each other, kind of like, You think thats cool? Watch this. More extreme versions of each manoeuvre evolved. Canoeists came up with novel ways to link one manoeuvre seamlessly to the next. Eventually, someone introduced music to the lakeshore, and people began paddling in time with it. And thus, the beginnings of Interpretive FreeStyle.A good interpretive routine is not only paddled in time with the music, but also rises and falls with its intensity. Different variants of each of the manoeuvres may also be employed. Flourishes of the hand and body may be displayed, as well as costuming, if appropriate. It should be noted that the goal is to make the canoe dance, but not for the paddler to be dancing in the boat.

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WORDS:LISA DREWEPHOTOS:LISA DREWEBioLisa is an award-winning outdoor writer, paddler and guidebook author, best known for her Paddleboarding book series published by Wild Things Publishing. She has explored hundreds of routes across Britain by paddleboard and kayak and writes regularly for outdoor and paddlesports publications.https://www.islandeering.comRead Lisas prior post on ten of the best paddling routes in London and thr South East at:https://paddlerezine.com/10-best-paddling-routes-in-the-se/Five spring city paddlesFrom a floating harbour and Londons oldest canal to industrial Midlands waterways, an Olympic stadium loop and a Scottish canal linking sea lochs to city parks, these five urban paddles reveal a different side of Britains waterways.City paddling offers a fascinating way to experience places that are usually seen only from streets and bridges. Slip quietly past converted dockyards, graffiti-lined canals, Olympic architecture and revived industrial basins where city life changes with the flow of water. Perfect for an early Spring paddle, these routes combine sheltered water with strong stories engineering feats of the Industrial Revolution, maritime heritage, ambitious regeneration projects and creative urban spaces. Along the way, youll find waterside cafs, historic pubs and plenty of easy access points, making them ideal for relaxed day trips or exploratory half-day adventures.Lets explore these routes in detail, starting with Bristol.1. Bristol Floating HarbourSee the best of Bristols harbourside at a relaxed pace, with options to explore feeder waterways. The Floating Harbour, kept at a constant level by locks and pumps since 1809, protects this stretch from tidal changes. Historic wharf buildings and engineering sites now host attractions.Launch at Baltic Wharf slipway. Paddle past Underfall Yard the old pumping station turned museum and caf and several museums and galleries along the water. Spot historic vessels like the Mayflower, Pyronaut, John King, John Cabots Matthew replica, and the centrepiece SS Great Britain at the Great Western Dockyard.To extend the trip, the Bristol Harbour Licence allows you to continue upstream on the River Avon as far as Hanham Lock.With your Bristol adventure complete, discover what awaits in London.Access restrictions: Bristol Harbour Licence required, 11.70/day from Harbour Office at Underfall Yard (0117 903 1484).Parking: SS Great Britain Car Park (charges), Great Western Dockyard, Gas Ferry Road, Bristol BS1 6UN. The car park is 800 metres from the launch point. Alternatively, drop off kit by the Cottage Inn, adjacent to the launch site, before parking.Launch: Baltic Wharf Slipway, Bristol BS1 6XG. Grid ST 5726 7216; Lat/long 51.4468, -2.6163.Pitstops: The Orchard Inn Huge range of local ciders and doorstep sarnies www.orchardinn.co.uk.The Grain Barge Great harbour views and craft beers https://grainbarge.com.Nova Scotia Hearty pub food and dockside seating https://novascotiabristol.com.The Cottage Post-paddle pie and pint right on the slipway (0117 9215256).Special points: Busy harbour traffic keep right and give way to larger vessels. BA and leash required; night paddling requires two paddlers and white lights. Launch only from Baltic Wharf; carry your licence. Full regulations www.bristol.gov.uk/bristol-harbour/safety/water-safety-codes-of-practice/paddle-boarding-safety-code-of-practice.Getting there: By car from the west, leave M5 J18 and take the A4 to Bristol, following brown signs to SS Great Britain. From the east, leave M4 J19, take M32 into the city and follow brown signs. By public transport, Bristol Ferry runs weekend winter services (full timetable in summer) between Bristol Temple Meads and Baltic Wharf: www.bristolferry.com/ferry.Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-bristol-floating-harbour2. London, Limehouse Cut and Olympic Stadium (10.5km return)A loop through East Londons waterways linking the Limehouse Cut with the Bow Back Rivers around the Olympic Stadium. Historic canals, industrial relics and Olympic landmarks combine on this distinctive urban paddle.This route begins on the Limehouse Cut Londons oldest canal before threading into the Bow Back Rivers, a network of channels revitalised for the 2012 Olympics within Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park.Start at Limehouse Basin, joining the Limehouse Cut. Pass Ropemakers Field on the right before going under a railway bridge and Kings Wharf Park. Continue straight, flanked by apartments, warehouses, and bridges, heading toward the A12.At the canals bend, stay left at Bow Locks, avoiding the locks and entering the River Lea Navigation under road and rail bridges. Pass Bow Free Wharf. Before Old Ford Lock, turn right under the footbridge to follow City Mill River around the London Stadium. Look for the ArcelorMittal Orbit and London Aquatics Centre, then pass City Mill Lock into the Bow Back Rivers.After St Thomas Creek footbridge, turn sharply left under the A118 to rejoin the River Lea and follow your route back via Limehouse Cut.After exploring Londons waterways, head north to the industrial heart of Birmingham.Licence: Required, included in Paddle UK membership.Starting point: Limehouse Basin, Pinnacle Way, E14 7PB (TQ 363 810; 51.51193, -0.03651).Launch: From the north side, off the concrete platform by the lock, into Regents Canal.Pitstops: Quirky caf Great atmosphere and food. The Yurt Caf. Short walk from Limehouse Basin www.rfsk.org.uk/yurt-cafe.Special points: In summer, invasive weeds can slow progress. Always wash gear thoroughly before entering other waterways to prevent the spread of invasive species.Note: There are no locks to portage.Getting there: From Limehouse DLR, exit Branch Road, turn left, and follow the arches 250m to the canal launch.Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-limehouse-cut-and-olympic-stadium/3. Birmingham (17km; or shorter option via rail return)Cruise between chocolate heaven and this citys industrial heart along the Worcester & Birmingham Canal and BCN Old Main Line, where brick wharves and the soot-darkened warehouses of the Industrial Revolution are now splashed with colour from cafs, bars and bustling canal-side terraces.Launch at Junction House, Kings Norton and head north to Bournville and Cadburys World, looking out for the caf boat Lola often moored nearby. A further 2.5km leads to the reed fringes, anglers and university boathouses of Edgbaston before entering the 96-metre Edgbaston tunnel.Approaching The Mailbox, now BBC studios and waterside cafs, you enter a more urban stretch. Pass Love Lock Bridge and stay left onto BCN Old Main Line.Gas Street Basin marks the first gas-lit freight interchange where coal, iron and finished goods were shifted between rival companies. Cast-iron signposts to London, Worcester and Stratford still point the way amongst narrowboats that idle beside bar terraces and familiar Peaky Blinders backdrops.Regency Wharfs old coal drops lead to clear canal water before Broad Street Tunnel forming Black Sabbath Bridge and Brindley Place, named for pioneer James Brindley.Head to Old Turn Junction the canals Spaghetti Junction circle the island and return via the same route (or rail return via Five Ways Station). Once back at Junction House, detour 700 metres east on Stratford-upon-Avon Canal to the rare Guillotine Lock.Access: Licence required, included in Paddle UK membership.Parking: Norton Playing Fields Car Park, Kings Norton B30 3HB. Grid SP 05049 79157; Lat/long 52.410, -1.927.Launch: Canal-side access by Junction House (Grid ref. SP 053 793), 300 metres from car park.Pitstops: Lola the canal boat Pizza and coffee https://lolathecafeboat.co.uk. The Tap and Spile Great ales and food at Peaky Blinders-era canal-side inn near Gas Street Basin https://tapandspile.co.uk.Special points: Carry a head torch and a whistle to alert oncoming craft. Always pass on the right.Getting there: By rail Birmingham New Street to Kings Norton (London North Western Railway, www.londonnorthwesternrailway.co.uk). By car take M42 Junction 2 north to Kings Norton Weatherspoons roundabout, then turn right after 300 metres into the car park.Map: OS Explorer 220, Birmingham.Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-birmingham-kings-norton4. Cardiff (6.5 km return)Large urban freshwater lake fed by the Rivers Ely and Taff, enclosed by the barrage and offering a unique paddling circuit past Cardiffs waterfront landmarks, historic buildings and a thriving wetland reserve.Leave Cardiff International White Water Centre, turn left onto the River Ely, passing Penarth Basins moorings. Round the Hamadryad Peninsula to barrage buoys, then head east across Cardiff Bay.Follow the east shore, passing the Cardiff Bay Sailing Centre. Continue to the white clapboard Norwegian Church, now an arts centre and caf. Proceed through Mermaid Quay, where the red-brick Pierhead Building stands opposite the Senedd and the Wales Millennium Centre, its copper, hull-shaped roof reflecting the bays maritime past. The Giant Wheel overlooks pontoons, pleasure boats, cafs, and restaurants.Heading south along the west side, pass the Rugby Players Statue and the entrance to the former shipbuilding yards of Mount Stuart Graving Docks.The five-star St Davids Hotel marks the approach to the Cardiff Bay Wetlands Reserve, where reedbeds support over fifty bird species, including great crested grebe, tufted duck and Cettis warbler. Cross the Taff mouth with views to the Lower Penarth Peninsula before returning to CIWW.Access restrictions: Launch only at Cardiff International White Water Centre or Channel View Leisure Centre slipway (report to reception). Day pass 8 www.ciww.com/park-and-play-2.Launch: Launching River pontoons, Cardiff International White Water Centre (CIWW), Watkiss Way, Cardiff, CF11 0SY. Grid ref. ST 179 728; Lat/long 51.448, -3.182.Parking: Cardiff International White Water Centre (free when paying for park and play day permit).Pitstops: Ty Melin Bakery Seriously excellent bakery adjacent to the CIWWC, https://tymelinbakery.com.Special points: Exposed to wind check conditions at Penarth on Surfline. Landing only at launch sites. Avoid barrage and jet-boat exclusion zones (see Cardiff Harbour navigation map). Non-tidal, but the Ely and Taff may flow strongly after rain. Keep clear of sluices, stay to right of marked channels; watch for ferry and rowing traffic. Wear BA and leash recommended; check local notices to mariners.Getting there: Car M4 J33 onto A4232 towards Penarth; after crossing River Ely, take fourth exit at roundabout onto A4055; first left following signs to International Sports Village, the first right along Olympic Drive to CIWW Rail Transport for Wales Train from Cardiff Central to Cogan rail station, 600-metre walk to Cardiff International White Water Centre.OS Map: OS Explorer 151, Cardiff and Bridgend.Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddle-boarding-in-cardiff-bay/5. Glasgow, Forth and Clyde Canal (various)Threading coast to coast across central Scotland, the Forth & Clyde Canal offers paddlers a sheltered corridor of flat water where shipyards, street art and kingfishers share the same reach. These two public-transport-friendly urban paddles show their range: Bowling to Westerton, with sea-loch views and Clyde heritage, and Applecross Wharf to Lambhill, where a mythical serpent, Glasgows answer to The Kelpies, and tranquil Cadder woods lead to the welcoming hub at Lambhill Stables.Bowling to Westerton (11km one way; rail return)Launch at Bowling Basin, beneath the Kilpatrick Hills, among colourful moorings, the eighteenth-century Customs House and views down the Clyde. Paddle east past Ferrydyke Bridge and under the Erskine Bridge to Dalmuir Drop Lock Europes only one. Portage via the traffic-light crossing, watching for the Beardmore sculpture marking the former naval yard that built Dreadnoughts. Continue through regenerated Clydebank, beneath shopping-centre footbridges and past the floating chippy. Follow the long straight pound to Boghouse Locks (4 portages), then under Great Western Road to Cloberhill Locks (5). Exit the canal just before the Westerton footbridge for the train return.Applecross Wharf to Lambhill Stables (10km return)Launch at Applecross Wharf pontoon (Scottish Canals HQ). Paddle west past Firhill Stadium to lively Stockingfield Junction with its 30-metre Spire and mosaic serpent, Bella the Beithir. Turn right (east) into a quieter, greener reach through Cadder woods. Slip under the A879 to Lambhill Stables (5km) a historic staging post, now caf, toilets and bike hub. Return the same way, or walk south on the A879 to Knapdale Street for bus 7/7A.Access restrictions: No licence required, but paddlers are asked to complete a free online trip registration with Scottish Canals.Parking: Bowling Basin (free), Dumbarton Rd, Bowling, Glasgow G60 5AF, Grid ref. NS 453 735; Lat/long 55.929, -4.477; Applecross Wharf, Applecross Street, Glasgow, G4 9SP; Grid ref. NS 587 671; Lat, long: 55.877, -4.259.Launch/Egress: Bowling Harbour to Westerton Station: Launch at Bowling Harbour E of sea loch, Grid ref. NS 452 735; Lat/long 55.929, -4.478. Egress at Westerton Rail Station pontoon, Grid ref. NS 539 704; Lat/long 55.904, -4.337. Applecross Wharf to Lambhill: Launch at Applecross Wharf pontoon, Grid ref. NS 586 671; Lat/long 55.877, -4.261. Egress at Lambhill Stables, Grid ref. NS 584 694; Lat/long 55.896, -4.265.Pitstops: Bowling Harbour Popular canal side caf under the railway arches, Patons www.instagram.com/patons.place. Clyde Shopping Centre Great fish and chip takeaway from boat-based restaurant McMonagles www.mcmonaglesglasgow.co.uk. Lambhill Stable Paddle-friendly and community-run caf serving great nosh www.lambhillstables.org/cafe-and-kitchen. Applecross Wharf Coffee, soups and treats in the community-run, Gathering Ground https://gatheringground.org.Special points: The Bowling to Westerton route has several easy lock portages, where a sling may be useful to lift your craft out of the water at lower water levels.Public transport: Scotrail from Glasgow Central to both Bowling and Westerton rail stations. For Applecross to Lambshill, use Firstbus 7/7A from Glasgow city centre to Bairds Brae Road (150-metre walk north to Applecross Wharf). Return from Lambhill: walk south on Balmore Road to Knapdale Street for the 7/7A back.Map: OS Explorer 342 Glasgow, Paisley, Rutherglen and Kirkintilloch.Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddlboarding-glasgow-forth-and-clyde-canalFinal wordCities are rarely thought of as paddling destinations, yet many of Britains most interesting waterways run straight through their centres. These routes show how water has shaped the growth, industry and renewal of our cities. Paddle them, and youll see familiar skylines from a completely different perspective quieter, slower and surprisingly wild.

Words: Richard Harpham Photos: Richard Harpham & Ashley KenlockRichard HarphamBioRichard is a human powered adventurer and inspirational speaker who has completed over 10,000 miles of expeditions by kayak, canoe, bike and on foot including exploring the Yukon, cycling the Sahara and Canadas Inside Passage.At home he runs www.canoetrail.co.uk, a watersports and adventure business with his wife Ashley in Bedfordshire providing qualifications, canoe camping, coaching and paddling trips to some of the UKs and worlds best locations. He is the former editor of Bushcraft and Survival Magazine and writes for Outdoor Adventure Guide, MoDs Resettlement magazine and the Paddler magazine.His adventures are supported by: Flint Group, Paramo Clothing, Olympus Cameras, Valley Sea Kayaks, Silverbirch Canoes, Bamboo Clothing, MSR, Canadian Affair, Osprey Rucksacks, Extreme Adventure Foods, Air North, Reed Chillcheater and Exposure Lights. You can follow his adventures through social media & @ www.richadventure.comSo you want to get off-grid, rewild, and enjoy the great outdoorsHow to develop wilderness guide skills and qualifications. Paddle UK, our National Governing Body (NGB) for paddlesport, all things canoeing, kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding, introduced guide modules some time ago to provide a pathway for expeditions and trips and to build knowledge, so people can tackle them safely and responsibly. The framework consists of five modules, offered through a network of qualified coaches, followed by a period of consolidation and then endorsement, to be signed off upon completion of at least three modules. The five core modules are:1) Trip Planning and Organisation,2) Campcraft and Expedition Skills,3) Environmental and Sustainability,4) Customer Experience (hosting) and5) Leadership.In this series of articles, Richard Harpham FRGS and Ashley Kenlock will unwrap the guide modules further and help make them more accessible to experienced paddlers and leaders. Rich recently completed his 15,000th mile of human-powered expeditions alongside his wife and co-director of Canoe Trail, Ashley Kenlock. The first module we will explore is trip planning and organisation, which will help paddlers, clubs, and groups plan trips in the UK and overseas.Top tip: Paint your adventure canvas your way, whether its wildlife, time spent with friends, following a historic route or a challenge, they are all valid. Consider the craft you want to paddle and its suitability for the environment and plan.Planning and researchThere are plenty of useful acronyms and sayings to help shape this element of the trip; often, a pitfall is failure to spend time on this aspect. One saying: Fail to Prepare, then Prepare to Fail! Or the six Ps Prior Planning Prevents P*ss Poor Performance! For us, as professional adventurers, one of the most useful aspects of our day job is good old-fashioned maps and books. These can be supplemented with Google Maps imagery and by searching for previous trip reports.Top tip: Visit charity shops and Facebook to find old guidebooks that others are relinquishing from their collections. Be aware that some maps may not show all features and hazards of a river, coastal corridor, or open water.Weather and environmental conditionsWe often blame weather forecasters for strong winds, rain, and other inclement conditions, but in reality, it is not an exact science. Understanding the weather system and forecast in our experience usually requires several sources, local knowledge where possible and constant revisit of the position as time ticks by. We often say, The Best You will Achieve Against the Weather is a Score Draw, in other words, you wont beat it.We use a range of weather sources and apps, including Windy, Windfinder Pro, Met Office and weather forecasts with synoptic charts. The wider environmental conditions will include other factors such as the catchment area of a river system, overfalls and tide races on the sea and fetch and wind patterns on open water.On our expedition planning courses, we always caution the perils of open water, lakes and lochs, which can often look calm and then whip up into waves and hazards such as capsize or dumping (as they say in north America and Canada). Of course, ambient temperature and water temperature play a significant role in our survival times.Top tip: Dont challenge yourself at the max endurance or intensity on expeditions such as waves, strong currents, wind, big rapids, and/or heavily laden craft. Try to get some experience in those conditions before you face the eye of the storm!Handy hint: Consider whether learning the ropes with a guide, a leader, or a company is the best way to navigate the learning curve safely.Equipment and kitOver the years, we have learnt from military friends, take a bow Roger Palin, ex Royal Marine Adventurous Training Instructor, the importance of understanding your equipment use, repair and contingency well. Their attention to detail of how the kit works well, not so well and can be repaired if needs be is incredible. A useful acronym for understanding contingency is PACE: P = Primary, A = Alternative, C = Contingency and E = Emergency.On our expeditions, we usually have at least one backup system and processes to help in the event of kit failure or an incident.Part of the decision about equipment choice will be your trip duration, the extent of the wilderness and difficult environment, and a range of other factors. Often, when giving talks at events, I have delivered a presentation called How Short is your toothbrush? Sir Ran Fiennes, who endorsed our book and several expeditions, decided on his polar trip that he couldnt afford the weight of the toothbrush and toiletries. Extreme, but determining luxuries, contingencies and understanding the difference between needs and wants can really make a difference to your pack weight and overall success and enjoyment.Top tip: Test your equipment and back-ups thoroughly.Border crossings, permits, visas and local culturesOf course, it seems fairly straightforward to set a course on the trail; for us, that means human-powered, but there are times when it is more complicated . For example, crossing borders solo or with friends under your own steam, you risk travelling without the right permit or visa. While sea kayaking the Channel and the Strait of Gibraltar, we were required to register our kayaks with a small craft number and to have a pilot craft.Crossing the border from the Yukon to Alaska, then the border force required a full 10-year visa, as you could not travel on an E Visa. Failure to comply would result in a permanent exclusion from the United States as an illegal alien.Handy hint: Check in with the FCO (Foreign and Commonwealth Office) before travel and research local issues.Top tip: Take time to understand customs, rituals, and geopolitical situations. Local travel to the start or finish point may be one of your riskier elements.My Rich Adventure: Over the years, I have had police escorts and even a safe house, been stuck in a riot, and abandoned by our pick-up plane.Inoculations and medicalMore recently, I read through John Goddards epic account from his 1952 descent of the River Nile from source to sea in canvas-on-frame old school kayaks. The book is a masterpiece of understatement, and they are charged by hippos, attacked by crocs, nearly drowned, and more besides.One of the elements that struck me about the era was the limits of medical knowledge at the time, which have advanced significantly since then. From sleeping sickness to malaria, waterborne parasites, Lyme disease and other bacterial infections, they endured tough times. Nowadays, get specific medical advice, GP inoculations and more to stay safe. Understanding the medical services in the country and the availability of drugs and emergency assistance in the event of an incident is important.Top tips: prevention is better than cure, avoid bites and illness, especially when risking tropical diseases.Complete a wilderness medical first aid course and expand your medical knowledge and first aid kit.My Rich Adventure: During my London to Marrakech bike and kayak expedition, I suffered a random and unexpected full anaphylactic shock episode, which was quite scary and resulted in injections of antihistamines in my backside, the last thing you want after hours in the cockpit and saddle! (see the video on YouTube @canoetrails).Equally important is understanding how to conduct a suitable risk assessmentThere is a risk of the turkey trap (everything is going well until Christmas also known as the heuristic trap) and Whalley box colliding (you dont know what you dont know)! Make sure you thoroughly consider hazards, the risks and how you may control or reduce them. My expeditions have included operating in hazardous environments, including minus 50 ambient temperatures, travelling over frozen rivers, large open-water crossings by sea kayak, cycling in Africas wilder areas, avalanches, sandstorms, and many more. Part of the trick is to consider control factors and mitigation to reduce risks (see table on opposite page).Top tips: Try scenario mapping the different events that could happen from accidents to equipment failure , from weather to illness and map out what could be done next.Prevention is better than cure; make solid plans and apply suitable control measures to reduce risks. Review again and again to ensure solid plans.Handy hint: Understand wildlife risks, especially when unfamiliar with the area. I have witnessed the joy of adventure in wilderness environments, among many stunning animals that could pose a threat. These have included bears (brown and grizzly), wolves, lynx, humpback whales, orcas, snakes and more.My Rich Adventure: There are many amusing videos on @canoetrails YouTube channel of misadventures and close encounters, including a near miss with a 40-ton humpback whale and getting surrounded by Orcas.Finally, consider the most critical component: your team or crew.On my first adventures, the Big 5 kayak challenge, we recruited teammates from our Viking Kayak club. This led to a motley crew with a plan to complete five challenges for charity; there were, understandably, differences in fitness levels, skills, desires, commitments, and other factors. Over time, we have learnt to consider roles such as medical skills, being a good navigator, and being a leader, among others.Mapping out roles and considering different scenarios can help determine what people really want to achieve and how much of it they want. Is cost, fundraising and duration an issue? Ironing out these things in advance helps reduce friction and disagreements. On our Canoe Trail expeditions, we organise optional training opportunities that help reduce stress as people get to know their guides, and, as importantly, we conduct medical and expedition screening, as well as a pre-exped zoom meeting.It is worth considering appetites for risk, personal paddling skills, fitness, and how group members react under the psychological demands of expeditions and life on the trail.Top tip: Organise a team training challenge that emulates the exped levels, even if only for a day or two. Review any learning points.Handy hints: Develop the team through shorter paddling days and perhaps overnight trips before tackling long multi-day expeditions, such as a week-long expedition. Check in with people about how they are coping physically and psychologically. We use a 10-point scale and introduce the lights on the dashboard concept, allowing participants to provide feedback without peer pressure.ConclusionsA good team, a solid plan with some contingency and a can-do attitude will get you a long way. It is humbling and inspiring to spend time in remote locations, and our 15,000 miles of human-powered adventures feel like just the warm-up. You can see our full range of UK and overseas expeditions, including Algonquin, Finland, and the Yukon, at www.canoetrail.co.uk.Of course, as a predominantly experiential learning species, we do all prefer to learn by doing, so why not attend some of the one-day guide modules to learn in practical, bite-sized chunks? Like most skills, it is best when we practice with expert tutors and keep things fresh. Rich and the Canoe Trail team are running the guide modules starting early Spring 2026, with training and consolidation to share knowledge. Drop us a line at admin@canoetrail.co.uk.The next article in the wilderness guide module series is Campcraft and Expedition Skills, where we will be unpacking more topics. Finally, as writers, we are proud of our Great British Paddling Adventures guidebook, which features over 50 routes and almost 100 paddling days. You can buy a signed copy from us for 18, including P&P.

Words: Steve BrooksPhotos: Steve Brooks & Ute HeppkeSteve BrooksSteve Brooks Steve has lived in Austria for over 28 years. It is a beautiful part of the world, with world-class rivers and stunning mountain scenery. In 2010, he set up, along with Ute, Kayak School Arlberg, where they run courses, coaching, and guiding kayakers through all whitewater grades on rivers such as the Sanna, Oetz, Lech, and Inn with his professional team. Since 2024, the Kayak School has been running British Canoeing whitewater leadership courses and Safety and Rescue courses in both Austria and Chile.Steve and Ute have now built a stunning house in the mountains above the kayaking mecca that is Pucon, Chile. Along with their Chilean team, they offer trips and expeditions to Chile from November through to March. To find out more, check out their website: www.gokayaking.atPure Patagonia white water kayakingIt had been a while since both Ute and I had been on an adventure together. So with a terrible snowpack back home in Austria, Ute suggested that she could join me in Chile in the New Year! It did not take long for me to think about it, and within 24 hours, her flights were booked, and I started planning an adventure into the heart of Patagonia.The plan was to go kayaking on a river we had never been on and to explore a part of Patagonia that we had never seen. We spent a week or so at our house in Pucon, getting our truck ready for the roads in Patagonia and also having a frame made for carrying our mini-motocross motorbike, and with a few more spares bought in Pucon, we were ready to start our journey south into Patagonia.Crossing the border into ArgentinaThe ferry from Horno Piren to Chaitn was fully booked, so we crossed into Argentina via the Cardenal Antonia Samor Pass. It is one of the main passes in the south to cross, and though we have heard horror stories of spending hours at each border checkpoint, it actually went rather smoothly. We had the correct paperwork for the truck, motorbike, kayaks, and equipment, which was greatly appreciated by both checkpoints.After finishing immigration in Argentina, the customs agent beckoned us to him and, after a quick chat in Spanish, explaining what was on the roof, the idea behind the motorbike and our plans, he was blown away. We ended up talking to him for quite a while, as he found what we were doing truly fascinating, so much so that a queue of vehicles formed behind us. We finally said goodbye to the customs agent, got a few tips on places to visit on the Argentine side of Patagonia, and were not long before we were driving through Villa Angostura via the 7 Lakes Road on our way to San Carlos de Bariloche.The views were incredible, and it brought back memories of our first time in this area in 2003 when we came to ski. The area around Bariloche is similar to the British Lake District but on a scale much, much bigger. We continued our journey past Bariloche, hoping to reach El Bolson, a small village at the foothills of the Patagonian Andes.However, the weather and the Argentine roads had other ideas, and we ended up staying the night in Rio Villegas, halfway between El Bolson and Bariloche. The wind had picked up, the rain was falling, and the temperature was dropping fast. We found a wooden cabin available, the lovely family got the fire burning, and within a few minutes, the cabin was warming up! The next day, we woke up to a dusting of snow on the mountain tops and clear blue skies.We were stopped at a police checkpoint on the other side of El Bolson. Again, they were super friendly and helpful, and we spent some time talking at the checkpoint while a queue formed behind us! We found out that the road was open now after catastrophic fires had ripped through the area. We continued down the Ruta 40, and it was not long before the acrid smell of smoke, burning and devastation hit us. It was horrendous.We could see where the fires had crossed the road and a few farms that had miraculously avoided being destroyed. Unfortunately, they were the few! This ski town of Esquel was the next town we passed through on our way to Trevelin, the last settlement before the border crossing back into Chile.What is interesting about Trevelin is that it was formed by Welsh settlers, and you can still see signs in Welsh, including houses, farms and hotel names in Welsh. There is also a Banco de Gales.Back into ChileWe left the beauty of a tarmac road, and what followed was a washboard all the way to the border. With another effortless border crossing, we were back in Chile and heading towards the Rio Futaleufu. Just downstream of the village is the Monastario and Ficos house. We wanted to make a quick pit stop at the Monastario to surprise Fico, whom we had known since our first time in Peru back in 2002.I have worked a lot with Fico on my private guest trips to Peru, and his personality, humour and stories are something to behold. In fact, we made a fair few stories and history together, including one about a parrot in the Amazon, which is for another day. He is an absolute legend in the world of rafting in South America and is loved by everyone. Unfortunately for us, he was not there!So we left a Kayak School Arlberg sticker with a message on the back tucked into the front door and continued our journey. Two days later, we received a message from Fico saying he found our message, was so happy to hear we were going to pay a surprise visit, and, of course, was gutted that he missed us!What, no Futaleufu!?You may be wondering why we did not stop at the Rio Futaleufu? The plan was to kayak and explore somewhere we had never been to before, and we had kayaked on the Futaleufu quite a few times. Also, once we had seen just how many people, kayaks, rafts and vehicles were at the put-in for the Bridge to Bridge section, we were happy to head away from the crowds and look for that part of Patagonia that was quieter and less known.It was not long until we left the washboard roads and joined the famous Carretera Austral. Route number 7 goes from Puerto Montt all the way down to Villa OHiggins. The total length of the Ruta 7 is some 1,240km through the heart of Chiles Patagonia, and as one of our guests once said, It is a trip of a lifetime in itself, and we were adding whitewater kayaking to the trip!The weather had changed, the clouds had come in, and it was raining off and on when we finally arrived in La Junta, a small enclave on the Ruta 7 and also the gateway to the Lago Verde Valley and the Rio Figueroa. The cabaas we found were amazing; they had only just been built the year before and had full mod cons, giving us a nice, warm and cosy place to base ourselves.Patagonia and the Region Aysn, ChileWe wanted to kayak the Rio Figueroa the following day; however, the weather had other plans, and with decent internet access at our accommodation, we saw that within the next 48 hours, high pressure was going to build over us for around five days.There is a saying down in Patagonia that roughly translates to: Those who try to rush their journey in Patagonia are only doomed to failure!The next day, we scouted sections of the Rio Figueroa, checked out other nearby rivers, and looked for contact details of Gauchos who could transport our kayaks and equipment. As rain continued, we monitored the weather forecast and decided to head to Lago Verde the following day, planning to stay the night there. We stocked up on supplies, packed for the river, and enjoyed a local Patagonia beer and meal.To Lago VerdeWe were back on gravel and washboard, driving up to Lago Verde. We had dropped off the motorcycle at the take-out, then roughly halfway up to Lago Verde, we saw a sign to the river. As we peeled off the main track, we were now using a 44, making our way towards where the road gets close to the river. We met a farmer by the side of the track and ended up talking to him for about half an hour. His name was Luis, and he said that once we came back from viewing the river, we should stop and have a mat (a local hot drink that is similar to green tea, which you drink through a metal straw).We continued down to the river, thankful for our 44, as parts of the track were completely off-limits to a car! We got to see the Rio Figueroa and noted the distinct markers for reference as we kayaked past before heading back up for a mat with Luis.We walked down to his farmhouse and were invited in.Fueled by mat, we followed Luis around his proud farm as he shared his vision to restore the lands natural state after the previous owners sheep had turned much of it into grazing. Luiss efforts to plant local bushes and trees were inspiring. He embraced living off the land in Patagonias beauty, earning a living by selling around 460kg of raspberries each season, including the wild varieties. Beehives helped pollinate his fruit bushes, while dogs guarded the farm from pumas wandering nearby forests and mountains. We spent hours talking about life in Patagonia before saying goodbye, promising to visit again.Back on the washboard road to Lago Verde, we glimpsed the Rio Figueroa as we neared the confluence of the Rio Pico. Suddenly, we saw eight Andean condors soaring high in the sky. Ute quickly grabbed her binoculars, and we pulled over to watch these impressive birds glide above the peaks of the Patagonian Andes. We then continued to Lago Verde, arriving late in the afternoon.In Lago Verde, we were trying to find a room; we thought it would be extremely easy, since the enclave is in the middle of nowhere, but it turned out to be quite complicated. We headed to the only restaurant in town, ordered a late lunch and asked the Seora if she knew anyone with a room available? As she was the only restaurant in town, she knew everyone, and by the time lunch came out, we had managed to get the only room left in Lago Verde!The whole village has rented out its rooms and cabins to the workers who are installing a new canal system and a tarmac road just outside the village. Ute and I had a single bed to share for the night, but we were happy; we had a roof over our heads, and we were away from the strong wind howling through the village.Lago Verde has an end of the world feel. You can actually cross the border to Argentina; however, after Lago Verde, there is no road, just a track from Chile, where you have to cross two rivers before crossing into Argentina, where again there is no road and no track to the village, far, far away. I popped in to see the Carabineros (police) to explain what we were going to do and also to say that our truck would be parked next to the put-in for the next 3-4 days.Simon, a policeman sent to the outpost at Lago Verde, was not keen on our leaving our truck by the side of the road. He suggested we come via the police station in the morning, and he would come with us to the put-in, then drive our truck back to the police station for safekeeping! It was unbelievable just how helpful and friendly everyone was down in this part of Patagonia.That night, the wind howled, and it felt as though the house we were staying in was swaying around. It was a bit snug for both of us in the single bed, but again, we were happy to be out of the elements!Rio FigueroaThe next morning, we picked up Officer Simon early from the police station, drove to the put-in, packed our kit and loaded the kayaks for the next three days. Simon was extremely interested in how we packed our kayaks and what we were taking for the next three days. He was pretty impressed that we could fit everything into the stern of our kayaks.We waved him goodbye, put in on the Rio Pico, and within five minutes we got to the confluence and entered the Rio Figueroa. The sun was out, the wind had stopped, and we were finally kayaking a river we had never done before!What hit us immediately was the strength of the current; yes, we were in Patagonia, where the rivers are bigger, but with the past four days of rain, the river had risen.We were kayaking through some nice, warm-up rapids, getting used to the flow, the strength, and the gradient of each rapid. Then all of a sudden, the river started to close in, the forest was right down by the riverside, and as we came around the corner, we could see the first major rapid, El Diablo (the Devil). From a river about 100m wide, it closed in and was squeezed into a box canyon.The current was heading to a big rock, with waves that were difficult to see over. We set up on river right and worked our way across the big waves to avoid the wall on the right, where all the water was pushing to. The boils were huge on the left, and it was a matter of staying on the left side of the main current to avoid getting sucked down by the huge boils. After El Diablo, it flattened out, and we were able to take in the stunning scenery, where the forest hung off the cliffs, imposing directly above us.It was just a short distance to the next major rapid, called Pinball. So what is usually moving between rocks all the way down the 300m rapid turned into avoiding some seriously big holes, punching through a few smaller ones and sneaking a line just river right of the huge hole that seemed to be swallowing up the majority of the water at the bottom of the rapid. Yes, the river was certainly higher than normal, and this got us wondering whether the portage further downstream would be runnable or at least have some sneak lines through it?We continued kayaking downstream, making good speed until we found an island in the river with a nice bit of sand where we could pitch our tent. We took a late lunch, found a shady spot, and then just relaxed, watching the condors soar way above us.The evening and night were uneventful, and we managed to get a fair few hours of sleep. The morning brought a mist over the river, which was extraordinary to see, with the deep blue Patagonia sky and the sun working its way out from behind the mountainside. With the mist disappearing while eating our breakfast, once finished, we packed up and continued down the Rio Figueroa. The first little rapid reminded us of the character of this river, with the boils catching the sterns of our kayaks and giving us a freestyle ride to the end of the rapid, where the river released us. What felt like minutes, but was actually a few kilometres, we came to the portage.The Lord of the RingsThe rapid is called The Lord of the Rings and is broken down into three parts, each with a small pool between them. We went to scout the first and second drops, only to realise that the higher water level had left us with no lines safe enough to kayak. Just a few huge holes where the main current was sending you, and with some syphons by the sides. It quickly became apparent that we would be walking our kayaks and equipment around the first two rapids.We checked out a possible route up in the forest on the rivers left side, and it seemed the best option. We climbed back down and pulled the first kayak up and away from the riverside, into the forest, before going back down for the second kayak. That was the plan for the portage: I would drag the kayak with my rescue sling and carabiner, while Ute would help push it along and lift it up or lower it down at the back using her rescue sling and carabiner.A Patagonia forest is unlike anything else we have encountered around the world. The trees were twisted together, and bamboo was sprouting between them, making it even more difficult to get through. Add to this the vines, prickly bushes and moss, only brought more suffering! We were moving slowly, struggling to keep the kayaks on what can only be called a slight opening in the forest; it was far from a track! As we got just past the second rapid, I took a quick look and realised it would be easier to kayak to the right bank and portage the last rapid from there.Now it was just a matter of kayaking over the huge rivers wide boils to get over to the start of the last part of the portage. This time, however, we were not going through the forest, but up and over huge boulders by the side of the river. By the time we finished the portage, we were drenched in sweat and shattered. I completely stripped off, wrung out my kayaking kit and thermals, then put them onto various hot boulders to try and dry out. I then plonked myself first in a pool of water and, finally, onto a flat rock to take a rest. The portage had taken us three hours to complete, and we were tired, extremely tired.There was not much of an option to camp here, and we were not even halfway down the river, so after taking in a lot of fluids and a boost of sugar, we carried on down.There were plenty of rapids to keep us smiling, be it running big waves, making moves to avoid some serious holes, keeping the kayak from going vertical on the boils and scouting now and again, we were full on in expedition white water kayaking mode!We arrived at a lovely beach with shade and plenty of vegetation, which kept the wind from blowing against our tent. We took a late lunch, and with smiles on our faces from a great day of expedition kayaking, we decided to camp here. We refuelled, hydrated and just took in our surroundings of being alone in the heart of Patagonia, only for a wild boar to come down and start a staring competition! Luckily for us, it gave up and retreated back into the forest.That evening and night went by quietly, and as we were fully energised and ready to go, we set off early the next morning. We still had not reached the halfway point, but it was not far downstream, and within the first hour, we kayaked past the point we had visited with our truck on the way up. There were signs of human life now, and for the next few kilometres before we came in for a big surprise. The river squeezed in again, and with a huge rock blocking much of the entrance from what we could see in the last eddy above the rapid, we realised it would be extremely difficult to portage, as the entrance led to a deep canyon.It looked as though, if we kept on the seam line between the canyon wall and the huge rock, we could make a line through the entrance of the gorge; then it was just a matter of negotiating the huge boils for the next 50 metres. I led us through, and, with a bit of bad luck, the timing of the seam line shifted, pushing me over to the right into some massive boils, where I was stuck waiting for them to blow out. Ute styled the entrance and was now dealing with the boils in the gorge.IncredibleNeedless to say, we got through without rolling over and were given a huge reward in the gorge; it was stunning. The forest was above us; trees grew in small pockets between the cliff walls, and water dripped from the roots into the river. We just sat in our kayaks, letting the current turn our boats so we could see different aspects of the gorge. It was incredible!As we exited the gorge, the river opened up, and we saw the road now and again. The steepness of the river mellowed out, and we were making good time, cruising down the rapids and even managing to surf some green, glassy waves!The weather was still with us, deep blue skies and a blistering sun high above. The river was really mellowing out, and we knew it could not be far now until we reached the lake. Around one corner, the mountains opened up, and we could see snowcapped peaks with hanging glaciers in the distance. These were all hidden by clouds and rain when we were in La Junta, so it was amazing to see these impressive mountains and peaks from the valley floor!We arrived at Lake Rosselot and stopped for a snack and to capture some stunning photos of the river flowing into the lake with snowcapped mountains in the distance. In fact, every time we turned around or looked in a different direction, there was another snowcapped peak and hanging glacier at the end.It certainly made the flat paddle out over the lake more interesting. The only problem we had was to work out which part of the lake fed into the Rio Rosselot, where our motorbike was patiently waiting! After an hour of paddling, we made it to the take-out with huge smiles on our faces.However, it was not the end of the expedition as I would now have to ride the 60km of dirt road from the take-out back to Lago Verde on our mini-motocross bike! Some 30km into the shuttle, I blew the front tyre and ripped the chain off the sprocket. I managed to get the chain back on, but there was no possibility of repairing the blown tyre, where is the Indian Puncture Wala when you need them? With no one driving along the track, I continued with a blown-out front tyre for the remaining 30km to the Police station.By the time I got there, my wrists, elbows and shoulders were in bits from the shuddering and hits they took from a wheel with no air in the tyre! Officer Simon heard me arriving and came out with a big grin on his face. He was happy to see me; I was certainly happy to see him. After a quick chat, we said our goodbyes and hoped to see each other again the following year!I made a pit stop at the restaurant to buy some chips that were dripping with oil and fat. I did not care; they tasted so good. By the time I got to Ute, her chips were still warm, and I was not too sure whether the smile on her face was the relief that I made it up safely on the mini motocross bike or the chips I was holding out in front of me! Either way, she gave me a big hug, ate the chips, and we packed up and headed back to La Junta.What a river the Figueroa is! The whole trip was amazing, and I did not even write about the journey back north to Pucon. A big thanks goes to Rick for the background info, the people we met along the way, and to Patagonia. The locals from the Rio Figueroa, Luis and his farm, Officer Simon at the end of the world police station and Leo, who has given us some great information about another river close by. It all made for a truly memorable trip into the heart of Patagonia, away from the crowds and the hype of other, more infamous rivers in the area, into a place we fell instantly in love with. This is Pure Patagonia!Background InformationGetting there: Either by road via Argentina or via ferry, staying in Chile if travelling south, or you could fly into Coyhaique and then drive northwards.Climate: Its Patagonia, so expect four seasons in one day and a lot of wind!Language: It is purely a Spanish-speaking area; we did not hear any English or other languages while we were in the valley. It would be extremely challenging to do this if you do not speak at least basic Spanish. Though the Chilean Patacon dialect takes time to understand!Shuttle: There are no shuttle options, so make sure you either have a motorbike set up if you are on your own, a driver, or two vehicles.Ruta 7: Make sure you have spares for your vehicle, as there are few people around, especially when you come off the Ruta 7.

Words:Guy BakerPhotos:Guy Baker &Esther DanielGuy BakerBioGuy now lives in New Zealand, where he continues planning trips worldwide. He can be contacted at: guy@catalystglobal.comwww.catalystglobal.comThe long way to New Ireland: Sea kayaking PNGTo boldly go where few have gone before and live to talk about it. That was the simple plan.Its not quite the Starship Enterprise, but sea kayaking is one of the best ways to explore the far edges of our planet. I started in white water, having paddled many of the worlds great rivers, so saltwater was inevitable. In 2010, that curiosity led me across Bass Strait 260 kilometres of unpredictable water made famous by the Sydney to Hobart yacht race and its wild weather. January seemed as good a time as any. We made it across safely, and from then on, I was always searching for the next challenge on the ocean and on rivers. Preferably one that did not involve large ocean crossings, which, while high on the danger level, was not the most interesting for me. Pepper the sea with islands much better.Then I heard about New Ireland, off the north coast of Papua New Guinea, and I was hooked. The islands were full of spice, and the people matched their vibrancy.People have lived there for 30,000 to 40,000 years, with ancient traditions and a complex colonial history: German rule from 1885 to 1914. Then came the Australian administration, the Japanese occupation during WWII, and subsequent Australian rule again until independence in 1975. PNG was about to celebrate 50 years of independence with its biggest tribal gathering since 1975. I knew I had to be there.Most visitors flew into Port Moresby for the celebrations. We did the opposite. We headed into the Highlands Mount Hagen and Lae. On 16 September, Independence Day, we stood among thousands of Highlanders dressed in ceremonial splendour: tall, feathered headdresses; necklaces of shell and horn; grass-and-bead skirts; and bodies painted with bold, intricate designs. We were five white faces in a sea of colour, culture, and history. New Britain is either very exciting or a nightmare, depending on your point of view and confidence that it will all be OK.PhallocryptsEvery man wore a koteka traditional penis sheaths that signal tribal identity. I even learned a new word: phallocrypts. These decorative ceremonial sheaths are made from gourds or woven fibres and are adorned with feathers, beads, and shells. Thats a Scrabble win if Ive ever seen one. https://westpapuavoice.ac/social-culture/koteka-a-timeless-symbol-of-papuas-highland-identity-masculinity-and-cultural-wisdom/Yes, there were weapons. And yes, tribal violence still happens. In 2023, more than 150 people were killed in fighting in the Highlands. With limited law enforcement and rough terrain separating many tribes, we were understandably cautious. But instead, we found huge smiles, warmth, and generosity. It went beyond anything we expected. Relieved and very much alive, we set out for the coast and our real goal: kayaking the length of the New Ireland archipelago.After some online searching, I had found a few abandoned sea kayaks left by another expedition. We made a deal. When we arrived, everyone seemed concerned. Apparently, the last kayak group was eaten, which is why the kayaks were abandoned! PNG people have a great sense of humour, we hoped.PNG is a land unto itself, so who knows whats happened or could happen its an ongoing attraction and what puts a lot of people off ever setting foot in the place, together with its remoteness, no backpacker industry at all, and generally a difficult and expensive place to get around. We were strongly advised to hire a guide who could kayak. Not an easy task, but eventually we found Winston, who, for a reasonable cost, joined us and cheerfully said, I know the way. You have nothing to worry about.Of course, my anxious mind pictured this as a plot to make three kayakers vanish in the most remote part of PNG. I packed an EPIRB, knowing that if rescue ever came, it would probably be too late. Not exactly comforting. Winston proved priceless, taking us to villages seldom, if ever, visited by non-PNG people, and everyone seemed to know him or be related to him. We never felt threatened until that one night. More to come below.Non-stop 35-degree daysWe flew to Kavieng, loaded the kayaks, and paddled west, riding the prevailing winds. The sun rose behind us as we started early to avoid the worst of the afternoon heat. Just south of the equator, New Ireland delivered non-stop 35-degree days. The sea was almost as warm. There was no escape. Staying hydrated became the real challenge.For a week, we hopped from island to island through places outsiders rarely visit, surprised by how many people lived in this remote part of the world. Coconuts were everywhere copra is still the fourth-largest cash crop in PNG. Life felt timeless, but mobile phones worked, and everyone knew who we were. Even here, the world feels small.On more than one occasion, the local created a celebration just for us, inviting people from nearby islands. Singing, drumming, and dancing lasted all night. Most people were chewing buai, a mixture of betel nut, lime, and shell. Its a strong stimulant and relaxant thats common across PNG, now the largest per capita consumer. These guys seemed more powered up than just Beetlejuice, but whatever fuelled them, the energy at night was powerful.Having failed to buy or release a large Sea turtle, those gathered on one particular island were especially high on the turtles rich meat, so we retired to bed early.At 02:00, four silhouettes appeared over Esthers tent.This, I thought, might be how it ends.when I am even older, and stories and reality become increasingly blurred.Christianity and tribal traditionsPNG is off the beaten path; its not easy, but FIXERS are connected through several operators to the outside world. With an economy based on mining and copra, there is a lot of money sloshing around at the top while the majority of the people live a life blended with Christianity and tribal traditions. I have visited three times now, and it never ceases to amaze me how different it is from so much of our commoditised tourism.You are pretty much guaranteed a more than interesting experience if you make the effort to get there. Plan, but leave yourself some margin for time and money, as nothing goes entirely to plan. A white water kayak descent of the Sepik River, in our case, turned into a navigation of the New Ireland archipelago, and there are plenty more unexplored island chains for the adventurous paddler.

Words:Nathan Watt Photos:Cliff WoodNathan WattNathan is an instructor at Aldercreek Kayak and Canoe https://aldercreek.comWild and scenic on the Middle ForkThe Middle Fork of the Salmon River is a pristine stretch of water winding through the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness in Idaho. Designated as a National Wild and Scenic River, it offers paddlers a remarkable journey through deep canyons and remote landscapes. Along its many twists and turns, visitors can discover natural hot springs, ancient Native American rock art, and a variety of rapids ranging from Class II to Class IV, depending on river flows.A small airfield in Salmon, IdahoIt was late August, and summer was fading, yet I could still feel the intense sun beating on the back of my neck at the small airfield in Salmon, Idaho. Our crew shuffled around, loading gear onto the scale for our flight into Indian Creek on the Middle Fork Salmon River. We needed to weigh and distribute the gear evenly to avoid overloading the plane. With nine people, a couple of kayaks, and a raft, we carried a manageable amount of equipment. After weighing everything, we lingered by the runway, letting anticipation build. I was eager to begin the trip.When it came time to load the planes, we divided into three groups. I was in the first group, responsible for pumping up and loading the rafts. The idea of flying in for a trip like this made me feel like Indiana Jones about to embark on a daring journey minus the headhunters and double agents.The flight was beautiful as we slipped over desolate ridges and green pines. Our Sky Captain, a nickname given to the pilot by a sarcastic friend, humoured us with a sudden dip of the wing after we requested a barrel roll.Flying in something that small feels like driving a Volkswagen buggy through the air you feel every bump. As the Indian Creek landing strip came into view, the pilot reduced the throttle, making my heart jump. He executed a tight turn, lined us up, and dropped the plane onto a very small runway. A storm was rolling in, and I knew my friends on the next flights were in for a different experience. Judging by their faces, I was right. Overall, Gem Air gets five stars for professionalism and for delivering us safely in poor weather. These guys are pros.We pumped the rafts and loaded our gear, inflating thwarts to use as rollers down the steep ramp similar to how the Egyptians built the pyramids. That Indiana Jones feeling returned.A rough nightThe rain came down hard as we scrambled to set up camp. With the mix of rain and sand, I knew I was in for a rough night. Still, with the river at 1.5 feet, I was grateful for the potential bump in water level. I crawled into my tent with sand-covered legs and tried to brush them off before sliding into my semi-wet sleeping bag. The last thing I remember was watching a drop of water fall from the top of my tent and land on my sleeping bag every fifteen seconds. I told myself, If you fall asleep, it will be over.Morning came, and the rain was still sputtering. The river had come up maybe half a foot and looked like chocolate milk. Things were looking good and soggy. Before launching, we were given a presentation about the salmon life cycle by a volunteer at the launch site. She was a kind older woman who unexpectedly pinched my cheek and said, Oh wow, youre cute, in a non-threatening motherly way. I giggled and thought, This is a pleasant way to start the morning. It was interesting to hear about the journey salmon take throughout their short lives, along with her theatrical salmon mating dance. They swim from the Salmon River to the Columbia River mouth, then head north to the San Juans. After feeding and socialising, they return to Idaho to spawn. Thinking about it gave me deep respect for these creatures and made me physically tired just imagining the swim.We launched with some hope, knowing we were approaching the first hot spring of the trip. Fog danced across the milky water as we made our way through the rain. After some fun class IIIII rapids, we rounded the corner and saw steam rising from Sunflower Hot Springs.As we arrived, the sun poked out. I peeled off my ten-year-old Immersion Research Super Model Drytop, recently revived with new gaskets, and to my surprise, it was still dry. The spring offered a stunning panoramic view from a high cliffside and a hot waterfall you could stand under to wash away your river sins. While soaking, I chatted with some east coast paddlers and swapped stories of the Youghiogheny, Cheat, and Savage River.A few more miles brought us to State Land Camp, where the sun allowed us to spread out and dry our gear. Ive always appreciated starting a trip with a Type Two Fun suffer-fest it makes you grateful for sunshine and warm food.On our second day, we had several miles to cover before reaching Hospital Bar Camp. We hit some minor rapids, the most notable being Jackass Rapid. In a kayak, it was an easy move, with the biggest hazard being a giant rock near the bottom. The raft styled it.Hospital BarHospital Bar was an open area on the rivers left side, sheltered by towering pines. This site was once used as a hunting ground by tribes such as the Nez Perce and Shoshone-Bannock. With canyon walls, a hot spring, and trails leading into the hills, I could see why people would have gravitated to this oasis. I imagined tribes gathering, trading, hunting, and holding ceremonies. I wandered around looking for signs of those who came before.On a distant cliff, I saw a small sign hanging from a tree. I considered climbing up to it, but kept thinking about the rattlesnakes Id meet on the way. Through binoculars, I still couldnt read it. I guess itll remain a mystery.Hot springI woke up early that morning so I could have a soak in the hot spring before my companions started milling about. It was a very small spring and right at river level. I collected some rocks and tried to hold as much hot water as I could in this small, sandy pocket, making a little tub just big enough for my lower body. I felt the hot water trickling down the rock onto my back as I watched the mist dance across the water.The sun slowly rose, illuminating the canyon walls and bringing out the various reds and pinks of the surrounding geology. Once again, I found myself thinking about the native people who had sat in this exact same spot hundreds of years ago, experiencing this same view. In that moment, I was reminded that people come and go, our lives are short, but the earth remains. We are always walking over each others footprints.Leaving Hospital Bar, we knew we were approaching the Tappin Falls series the biggest and most technical rapids so far. In my Jackson Antix 2, I knew Id have a sporty time. The group was mostly concerned about low water creating pin hazards for the rafts. Another kayaker and I moved ahead with radios to scout. We boofed, surfed, and made note of F-U rocks the ones perfectly positioned to ruin your day. Everyone had clean lines.We eddied out on the river left to scout Tappin Falls. At this level, there was a small slot on the river right for rafts. Another group ran it while we scouted, which helped. I planted a boof stroke and kept my bow high. Our rafts came through smoothly, and our anxiety dropped. Next was Cove Creek Rapid, with a small slot leading into a boulder garden. Our group made it fine, but the group behind us had a small hang-up and unpinned themselves by shifting weight around dogs included.We were excited to reach Trail Camp, knowing wed spend a layover day there. The campsite had stunning views and a trail along the river. I brought out my travel guitar and worked on some Sunny Pache tunes (my artist stage name) by the water. While hiking downstream, we stumbled upon a riverside resort selling ice cream, cold beer, and blocks of ice. A welcome surprise, considering our ice was disappearing fast. We stopped the next day again to restock. Our time at Trail Camp was spent relaxing, eating, hiking, and sipping cold drinks. The groover had a spectacular view nothing like waving at passing raft trips while taking care of business.Native American pictographsThroughout the trip, we stopped at two different locations with Native American pictographs. This was my favourite part of the trip. At both sites, the pictographs were on rock faces protected by an overhanging ledge, keeping them preserved for hundreds if not thousands of years.The red paintings depicted figures hunting animals and depictions of the rising sun. One seemed to illustrate human reproduction, or perhaps the origin of their people. Once again, I felt that overwhelming wow factor and those introspective thoughts about human existence. I kept thinking: here we are, coming down this river with all our accessories, trying to be comfortable, while these people lived out here, off the land, in the purest form of humanity.As I wrote this account of my time on the Middle Fork, I began to reflect on what matters most to me on a river trip. Whats truly memorable? At first, I wanted to detail every rapid, but I realised that isnt what I really care about. I care about the journey and the experience shared with people Im proud to call friends. I cherish the wildlife bighorn sheep, chukars, lizards, and even the snakes.At the end of my life, I wont remember my steeziest line or how many sub-par stern squirts I did. Ill remember the friendships, the camaraderie, the conversations, the land, and those who came before us. In the end, we cant get our time back. Like the river, our lives only move in one direction. So do what makes you happy jump in the current and make the most of it.AldercreekNathan is an instructor at Aldercreek Kayak and Canoe https://aldercreek.com

Words & photos: John R. Dean & Sam N. DeanJohn R. DeanSam N. DeanThanks Thank you to Naomi Dean, Margaret Perry and John Marshall for being excellent students.Thank you to Silverbirch Canoes (www.silverbirchcanoes.com) for the loan of the Silverbirch Canoes Quetico 15 composite canoe. This new composite canoe has been designed with a hull that rewards smooth paddling, natural tracking, and relaxed forward progress, while offering the practical benefits of reduced weight (around 18.5 kg) and long-term durability.An Essential Guide to canoe touringFocusing on practical tips and trips for beginnersWhat is essential when canoe touring? Well, almost certainly a few things will come to mind. The kit you carry, and how portable and light it is. Whether you are going for a day trip or a multi-day canoe camping trip, the lightness of the kit, its durability, and its fit for purpose in all weathers are important, as is the ease of portaging your canoe from the car to the water or around water-based obstructions. So, what should you take with you for canoe touring? Heres a single-day canoe touring checklist:Safety gear: personal flotation device (PFD) a properly fitted buoyancy aid; a whistle for signalling in emergencies; first aid kit compact but comprehensive; throw line for rescue situations; a helmet if paddling in moving water or rapids.Canoe and paddling equipment: canoe appropriately sized for your trip and load; paddles bring at least one spare; dry bags to keep gear and clothes dry; bailer or sponge for removing water from the canoe; knee pads /mat for comfort during paddling sessions.Navigation and communication: map and compass waterproof versions are best; GPS device optional but useful for longer trips; phone or satellite communicator in case of emergencies.Clothing: quick-dry layers avoid cotton; rain gear waterproof jacket and dry pants; footwear water shoes or sturdy sandals; warm layers for evenings and unexpected cold; hat for sun protection and/or warmth; gloves for canoeing in cold.Food: youll want food that is lightweight (easy to pack and carry); non-perishable (wont spoil without refrigeration); high-energy (to keep you fuelled); and easy to eat (minimal preparation, ideally no cooking). A few suggestions are: breakfast instant oatmeal packets (just add hot water), granola or muesli, dried fruit (raisins, apricots, cranberries); snacks (for during paddling) a mix of nuts, seeds, dried fruit, and chocolate chips, energy bars or protein bars, beef jerky or plant-based jerky, fresh fruit that travels well (apples, oranges); lunch tortillas (better than bread for packing), peanut butter and jam or honey, hard cheese (cheddar, gouda lasts without refrigeration), cold meats or salami (shelf-stable); dinner (if youll eat before heading home) instant noodles or pasta (quick boil), dehydrated meals (lightweight and easy) or fresh vegetables, couscous (cooks fast, just needs hot water).Drinks: plenty of water (or a water filter if youll refill from a river), electrolyte tablets or drink mix, tea or instant coffee (if the weather is cold). Tip: pack everything in waterproof bags or a barrel to keep it safe from splashes.Extras: bug repellent essential in summer; sunscreen and lip balm for comfort in summer; sunglasses with a strap for glare from the water and the sun.And for multi-day trips, additionally:Camping and cooking gear: tent or hammock/tarp combination lightweight and waterproof; sleeping bag and pad rated for the expected temperatures; stove and fuel compact camping stove; cookware and utensils lightweight and durable; food and snacks high-energy, easy-to-pack meals.Extras: water filtration system or water bottles pump, filter, or purification tablets; head torch with spare batteries; repair kit duct tape, zip ties, and canoe patch materials; multi-tool or knife: for minor repairs; waste bags leave no trace.What about some weight-saving tips:Use multi-purpose items (e.g., your cooking pot can double as a bowl for eating). Pack freeze-dried meals for lighter food weight. Share gear among the group (e.g., one stove for two people).Accessibility: safety gear (first aid kit, repair kit) should be on top or near the paddler for quick access and shared amongst the group.Spare paddle: Secure a group spare paddle along the gunwale or under gear for easy reach.What about some weight distribution tips:It is important to think about the canoes weight distribution, or trim, to ensure maximum stability and tracking over the water. All gear should be packed in drybags or similar (barrels). The overall aim when packing is to ensure the canoe is either neutral or slightly stern-heavy in trim.Keep the centre of gravity low: it is a good idea to pack heavy items on the floor of the canoe rather than high up to enhance stability.Keeping heavy gear near the centre of the canoe: This enhances stability and maintains manoeuvrability.Distribute the gear evenly: from side to side within the canoe to prevent unnatural edging.Note: the placement of gear, and hence its weight distribution, may need to be modified depending on whether paddling solo or tandem, and can be influenced by the weather, e.g. windy conditions.However, the single heaviest item is the actual canoe itself. The ability to transport it singly on your shoulders, via the carrying yolk, or with friend(s) in pairs or fours can sometimes feel like a bit of hard work. But the urge to get out and enjoy canoeing, whatever the time of year, has a certain draw, while the peacefulness of canoe touring cannot be overestimated. Canoe touring can be an amazing experience, but having the right canoe for the task can make the difference between total enjoyment and hard work.Once youre equipped, selecting the right canoe is vital for touring success. What are some of the key aspects that make a good touring canoe?Flexibility for solo or tandem paddling.Weight of outfitted canoe: weight is very important for transportation during launching and portaging, even with a trolley.Robustness for the type of touring to be done, whether it be lakes, canals or slow-moving rivers.Durability. As we do not buy a new canoe very often, we need one that can withstand wear and still look good when we pose for photographs.Speed over the water as touring is often about distance travelled, the canoes efficiency on the water is an important characteristic.As well as the wide range of canoes available from different manufacturers, another issue to consider is the diverse range of materials canoes are made from, which adds to your decision-making process when buying. Canoes are made from a diverse range of materials that include:Aluminium.Composites: often synergistic mixtures of synthetic fibres and resins, and include Kevlar, Aramid, TuffStuff, and Blue Steel.Plastic: rotational moulded plastic, e.g. high-density polyethene (HDPE) and SP3 three layers of superlinear polyethene, as well as T-formex (an acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) plastic with a foam core and a proprietary outer skin), and Royalex (also a foam-core ABS plastic material with a vinyl outer skin, production stopped in 2014).Wood.With your gear and canoe chosen, your next decision is the destination. Where shall I go?With canoe touring, you are spoiled for choice in terms of the venue location and type of water to paddle. Within the UK, a wide variety of canoe trails, from tranquil canals to scenic river adventures, are available. Here are a few suggestions:River and canal systemsEngland is blessed with a range of relatively short-distance loops which use a combination of a river and a canal system to allow you to gain access and egress at the same place. These loops allow for a short mid-day trip in winter, an afternoon leisurely paddle at any time or an evening paddle on those long summer nights.The Shugborough Loop (extended) offers a couple of possibilities that both start and end at the Canalside Farm and Caf in Great Haywood. While the Canalside Farm does offer parking, it is advisable to let them know if you are a large group and to be a customer either before (some lovely options in the shop to buy a picnic lunch) or after your trip. Alternatively, you can make a courtesy car park payment in the shop. Once afloat, head the short distance to the junction of the Trent and Mersey Canal with the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal.The first option is to take the right-hand turn at Great Haywood Junction, heading towards Wolverhampton, and the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal. Passing over the aqueduct of the River Trent, continuing through the wide, a more open aspect of the canal, onwards for the short portage around Tixall Lock and finally the aqueduct over the River Sow.A short portage from the canal to the river below, and the journey continues down the river. The River Sow is normally a gentle flowing, picturesque river through the countryside alongside the National Trust property of Shugborough Estate. After a short distance, you come to the confluence of the River Sow and the River Trent at Essex Bridge. At this point, you can either continue down the River Trent (see Option 2) or egress at Essex Bridge and make a short portage back up a small gradient to the Trent and Mersey Canal.As you return to the canal at Trentlane lock, you should just continue the portage around the lock and continue the short distance by canoe past the moored canal boats to Great Haywood Junction and Canalside Farm. A perfect stop for a coffee and cake in the caf or an ice cream in the shop.Option 2 is to access the Trent and Mersey Canal at the Canalside Farm, Shop and Caf and continue at Great Haywood Junction to Trentlane Lock.After a short portage past the lock, take a right-hand turn down the path toward Essex Bridge. At this point, there is no need to walk across Essex Bridge but launch into the River Trent on its left-hand bank. Canoeing under Essex Bridge, the river winds its way through attractive countryside for a few miles until you encounter Wolseley Bridge south (a road bridge).About 200 metres downstream of the bridge, you will see on the river left an egress point, and a short portage up a small gradient and back onto the Trent and Mersey Canal. Turning to the left, you continue the paddle along the canal, passing the villages of Colwich with its canal-side houses, people strolling along the canal bank, and continue via two attractive and interesting locks (Colwich Lock and Trentlane Lock) on your way back to Great Haywood Junction, and the egress at Canalside Farm, Shop and Caf.The canoeing distance for the round trip for option 1 is around four miles (7 km), with a portage from the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal to the River Sow, a portage around Tixall Lock, as well as a further portage from the River Sow to the Trent and Mersey Canal at Essex Bridge, and onwards past Trentlane Lock. While for option 2, the canoe distance is around six miles (10 km) with a portage from the Trent and Mersey Canal to the River Trent, at Trentlane Lock to Essex Bridge and a further portage from the River Trent to the Trent and Mersey Canal near Wolseley Bridge, then the canal locks at Colwich and Trentlane.Useful Information:Go Paddling: River Sow (https://gopaddling.info/rivers/river-sow).Canalside Farm, Shop and Caf, Mill Lane, Great Haywood, Staffordshire, ST18 0RQ. (www.canalsidefarm.co.uk).Shugborough Estate, Milford, Stafford ST17 OUP (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/shropshire-staffordshire/shugborough-estate).Slow-moving riversThere are plenty of opportunities throughout the UK for a gentle river paddle (grade 1/2). We have chosen the River Cam, in Cambridge, though while it is within the city, you do canoe amongst the fantastic views of the city and its iconic university in an area known as The Backs, and it certainly has the wow factor for a summer evening or just a change of scenery to enjoy a totally different experience. On our trip, which was a beautiful sunny day in January, the river traffic, in the form of a multitude of punts, was limited. This is not always going to be the case, so if you ever want a calm, tranquil canoe along this iconic route, summer is probably not the time to do it. On the other hand, enjoyment can be found in all the sights at any time of year.Parking was straightforward at the citys car park at the Cambridge City Councils Lammas Land site. While you currently pay for parking between 08.00 and 18:00 hours, it is free in the evening, so maybe its worth a visit in summer after all. Car park payment can be done at the machine or via the JustPark app (car park ID 16799). A disadvantage of the car park is that it has a maximum height barrier of 1.98 metres that is padlocked. So, we had to take the canoe off the car roof to enter.It is a 100-metre walk from the car park to the River Cam with the access/egress point at Cambridge Canoe Club, next to Sheep Green Learner Pool. Initially, you pass under the Fen Causeway (the A1134, part of the city ring road), then under the footbridge at Crusoe Bridge. With a hotel on river right, and the Sheeps Green Park on your left, you will identify a sluice gate on river left. This is where you take the short portage, at The Rollers, into the Mill Pond pool at Laundress Green. This is where it gets busy on the river with punts (Scudamores Mill Lane Punting Station is here), with the stunning scenery of The Backs downstream.Passing under Silver Street Road bridge, the first of the iconic bridges you cross is the Mathematical Bridge, a uniquely designed wooden bridge built entirely of straight timbers. The original bridge was built in 1749, but the version you see today is a teak-wood replica from 1904. Continuing past Queens College on the river right, you next pass under the stone bridge of Kings College Bridge, with its elegant arches. On the river right, the vista opens, with the riverside lawns in the foreground providing the perfect setting for the iconic English Late Gothic style Kings College Chapel, completed during the reign of King Henry VIII in 1537.Continuing the scenic paddle of The Backs, you next take sight of Clare College, which on this occasion was covered in scaffolding, as you pass under Clare Bridge. Clare Bridge is the oldest surviving bridge in Cambridge, dating back to the 17th century, which is contrasted by the next bridge, the Garret Hostel Bridge, which is itself unique in The Backs as its a public bridge, so free to walk across, unlike the other privately owned college bridges. Just before the bridge is the Jerwood Library, a modern library for the University of Cambridge, built in 1998. The next bridge is Trinity College Bridge, a Grade 1-listed structure, part of the Avenue that connects the main buildings of Trinity College with the Trinity College Fellows Garden.Taking a right-hand bend in the river, passing the 17th-century Wren Library on the right, you get a view of the next two bridges, the Wren Bridge (known as the Kitchen Bridge) and then, in the background, perhaps the most famous of the Cambridge bridges, the Bridge of Sighs. The Wren Bridge is the second-oldest bridge on the River Cam, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, and completed in 1713.It gets its other name, the Kitchen Bridge, as it links St Johns College (left-hand riverbank) with the Buttery Dining Room (right-hand bank), built in 1831, as the quicker route for students and fellows to their dining room. The iconic stone-covered, Grade 1 listed, Bridge of Sighs, which was built in 1831, links St Johns College New Court (river left) and Third Court (river right) across the River Cam. Interestingly, it is named after the bridge of the same name in Venice.Finally, we canoe under the road bridge of Magdalene Street, past another few punt hire companies, and continue another 300 metres to our turning point at Jesus Lock, built in 1831, with an iron bridge over the weir. At this point, we turn around and head back upstream, against the gentle river flow, and enjoy all the sites once again, on our way back to the egress point at Cambridge Canoe Club.The round-trip canoeing distance is around three miles (5 km), with portages from the car park to the River Cam and from The Rollers to Mill Pond.Useful Information: Lammas Land car park Cambridge City Council www.scudamores.com/college-backs-mapOpen water, canal and river systemsNorfolk Broads: The Norfolk Broads are an extensive network of navigable rivers and lakes (broads), perfect for relaxed paddling with opportunities to spot birds and explore charming villages. As an example of such a paddle, we have chosen one of the many options: Barton Broad and the North Walsham and Dilham Canal.Launching at Neatishead Staithe and turning right into Limekiln Dyke and on into the wider expanse of open water that is Barton Broad (the second largest Broad). Just like all the bays, the waterway is full of bays and inlets that can make an interesting diversion or a great picnic site on a sunny day.At the north end of Barton Broad, the waterway splits into two. To the left-hand side, the picturesque Barton Turf Staithe and boatyard (option 1).While on the right-hand side, the River Ant flows with its many tributaries. Northwards along the River Ant, you can take a right-hand tributary to the staithes at Sutton (option 2) or Stalham (option 3).Continuing in a northerly direction leads to Wayford Bridge (option 4), where, as well as having an Inn, is the entrance to the North Walsham and Dilham Canal. This canal was originally built in 1826 as a transport interchange to get larger boats (wherries) from Antingham to the River Ant at Wayford Bridge.It is important to note that not all of the canal is navigable, as it fell into disuse in the 1930s. However, a charity (https://nwdct.org/) is working to re-establish the waterway for all users. A dedicated page highlights the best places to canoe on the canal (https://nwdct.org/paddle-sports/). Some suggested examples from Wayford Bridge are to canoe to Tylers Cut (near Dilham) (option 5) or Dilham Canal Lock, via Tonnage Bridge (option 6) for short paddles.The approximate canoeing distances for different options around and including Barton Broad are as follows: option 1: Neatishead Staithe to Barton Turf Staithe two miles (3 km); option 2: Neatishead Staithe to Sutton Staithe four miles (6 km); option 3: Neatishead Staithe to Stalham four miles (6 km); option 4: Neatishead Staithe to Wayford Bridge four miles (7 km); option 5: Wayford Bridge to Tylers Cut one mile (2 km); and, option 6: Wayford Bridge to Dilham Canal Lock 2.5 miles (4 km).It is perfectly possible to launch at other sites around Barton Broad and the North Walsham and Dilham Canal. For example, Sutton Staithe, which has direct roadside access via the A149, offers free car parking, a village public house (at the hotel) that serves food, and the possibility of hiring a canoe if you are planning a day out or overnight trip and have not brought your own craft from the boatyard.A short drive along the A149 is Stalham Staithe, which has direct access to the River Ant, opposite the Museum of the Broads, located just beyond Richardsons Boating Holidays on Staithe Road. While parking is limited, the area offers camping at Broads Edge Marina Riverside Camping, with local restaurants and a supermarket, a short walk from Stalham town centre.Continuing along the A149, you quickly come across the Wayford Bridge Inn, which offers car parking (fee payable at the bar but can be redeemed against purchased food and drink), food, drinks and accommodation on the banks of the North Walsham and Dilham Canal. Wayford Bridge itself is the crossing between the River Ant and the North Walsham and Dilham Canal (no lock, just a continuous waterway). The adjoining car park is also one option for hiring a canoe from The Canoe Man if you do not have your own.Continuing along the A149 but now named Yarmouth Road, take a right-hand turn into Dilham and onto The Street, continue driving a further 100 m past the Cross Keys Public House (a pub that serves food) to a bridge at the junction of The Street and Honing Road. The village of Dilham, named from Old English as a homestead where dill is grown, featured in the Domesday Book of 1086.This is the end of the North Walsham and Dilham Canal navigation at Tylers Cut (Dilham Staithe), but also a suitable place to launch your canoe. However, roadside parking is very limited. A short distance along Honing Street, turn right into Oak Road, where you will find Dilham Hall Retreats, which offers glamping, camping and canoe hire on-site. In addition to offering free parking and toilets, you can also self-launch your own canoe from their canal-side location adjacent to Tonnage Bridge. The site was the winner of the Channel 4 Four in a Bed programme in March 2025.Further down Honing Road, you can access Canal Camping, with spaces for tents as well as Glamping, in a canal-side location that provides direct access to launch your canoe (or hire from the campsite). A donation is always welcome towards the upkeep and maintenance of the canal. The current most navigable part of the North Walsham and Dilham Canal, though improvements and restoration are an ongoing process by the Canal and River Trust, is Honing Lock. The canal along this stretch is particularly fen-like and narrow with reed, rush and sedge-covered banks.Barton Turf Staithe, on the northwestern edge of Barton Broad, is a picturesque village. However, while you can visit via Barton Broad, it does not allow the launching of canoes or overnight camping from the road. Just south of Barton Turf is the village of Neatishead and its staithe. The site offers a small free car park, but unfortunately, overnight parking or camping is not allowed. In the village, however, and less than 300 metres away, is both a village shop and the White Horse Inn, both of which offer food and drink options. Being to the west of Barton Broad, Neatishead offers a great opportunity for a full-day canoe trip. Some of the houses within the village have their own waterside access to Limekiln Dyke and provide an interesting diversity of views.Useful Information:Neatishead Staithe Irstead Rd, Norwich NR12 8BJ. Grid reference TG 344 210). (https://maps.app.goo.gl/qS2qtnM47bxjyFTm9n).Wayford Bridge Wayford Rd, Stalham, Norwich NR12 9LL (https://maps.app.goo.gl/d7G4MHujcvf6aYNJ7).Sutton Staithe Hotel Staithe Rd, Sutton, Norwich NR12 9QS. (www.suttonstaithe-hotel.co.uk).Sutton Staithe (postcode NR12 9QT; grid reference TG 381 237).Sutton Staithe Boatyard (https://suttonstaitheboatyard.co.uk) and a useful canoeing map (https://suttonstaitheboatyard.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Sutton-Staithe-Boatyard-Canoe-Map.pdf).The Museum of the Broads The Poors Staithe, Stalham, Norwich NR12 9DA. (www.museumofthebroads.org.uk).Stalham Staithe (postcode NR12 9BZ; grid reference TG 372 247).Broads Edge Marina Riverside Camping Mill Rd, Stalham, Norwich NR12 9BT. (www.broadsedgemarina.co.uk/riverside-camping).Wayford Bridge InnWayford Rd, Stalham, Norwich NR12 9LL. (www.wayfordbridge.co.uk)The Canoe Man Wayford Bridge, Wayford Rd, Stalham, Norwich NR12 9LL (https://thecanoeman.com).Cross Keys Public HouseThe Street, North Walsham, NR28 9PS (https://crosskeysdilham.co.uk).Dilham Staithe (postcode NR28 9PR; grid reference TG 332 255).Dilham Hall Retreats Oak Rd, Dilham, North Walsham, NR28 9PW (www.dilhamhallretreats.co.uk) and (www.dilhamhallretreats.co.uk/canoe-hire).Canal Camping Honing Rd, Dilham, North Walsham, NR28 9PL (www.canalcamping.co.uk/the-campsite/canoe-hire).Honing Lock The Acorns, Lock Rd, Honing, North Walsham, NR28 9PJ. (Environment Agency Gauging Station TG 33119 27041).Barton Turf Staithe Barton Turf, Norwich NR12 8AZ.White Horse Inn The Street, Neatishead, Norwich NR12 8AD (www.thewhitehorseinnneatishead.com).White House Stores Community Shop Irstead Rd, Neatishead, NR12 8BJ (www.whitehousestores.co.uk).NoteCheck out the map for other canal suggestions: https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/canals-and-rivers or places of interest along the canal systems: https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/canals-and-rivers/places-to-visit. To paddle on canals, you need a license. This can either be a license direct from the Canal and River Trust or by being an on-the-water member of your home nation of British Canoeing Awarding Body, e.g. Paddle UK. The latter provides access to 5,000 miles of inland waterways, including canals and rivers managed by the Canal and River Trust, Environment Agency and the Broads Authority. https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/things-to-do/canoeing-and-kayaking-near-me/licensing-your-canoe.

WORDS:CORY JONESPHOTOS:CORY JONESCory JonesBioCory Jones is a sea kayak and polar expedition guide with Quark Expeditions, a wilderness first aid trainer, and co-founder of the First Aid Training Co-operative. He has paddle-guided in Scotland, Canada, Antarctica, and South Georgia, combining a passion for paddling with deep knowledge of wildlife, safety, and polar history. He writes a blog about his travels at @weewildadventures.Paddling in the Footsteps ofShackletonFor a second season, I have had the privilege of working as a sea kayak guide in Antarctica surely one of the most astonishing paddling environments on Earth. Expedition ship supported kayaking here means returning to warm showers, good food, and a comfortable cabin after each icy adventure, even as you paddle among icebergs, glaciers, and extraordinary wildlife in a place steeped in polar history. This season, I guided for Quark Expeditions. My travels took me along the Antarctic Peninsula and to the shores of Elephant Island and the wild, mountainous island of South Georgia. These places formed the stage for Sir Ernest Shackletons greatest survival story.The Endurance Story: A Route Written into Polar LegendMost paddlers know the basic outline of Shackletons 191417 Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition. In 1915, the ship Endurance became trapped in pack ice deep in the Weddell Sea. Shackleton and his 27 men drifted for months until the ship was crushed by the ice. Forced to abandon the wreck, the crew camped on shifting ice floes, then made a desperate escape in three small, open boats. They crossed dangerous seas and broken ice, finally reaching Elephant Island an exposed and icy outcrop at the edge of the South Shetlands. Even this was a remarkable feat.But the hardest part was still ahead. Shackleton knew that no rescue would come, so he chose five men to join him and left Elephant Island in the 22-foot lifeboat, James Caird. Their goal was to sail 800 nautical miles across the dangerous Scotia Sea to reach South Georgia a daunting journey in such a small boat. After 17 days at sea, guided by Captain Frank Worsleys precise navigation, they reached land. However, they landed on the wrong side of the island. The whaling stations were separated from them by mountains and glaciers that no one had ever crossed.Shackleton, Worsley, and Tom Crean made that crossing in a non-stop 36-hour push, arriving at Stromness Whaling Station utterly spent. It took four attempts to reach Elephant Island by ship, but Shackleton finally succeeded, and every man survived. To paddle these same waters is to feel the ghost of that journey at your shoulder.The Peninsula: Blue Ice, Brash Ice, and Whale RoadsOur own voyage began on the Antarctic Peninsula. We enjoyed several glorious days of sea kayaking, and each launch felt like a gift. The icebergs glowed in deep blue and white. Their fluted walls rose like cathedrals above the kayaks, while brash ice crackled and tinkled as we pushed through it, bouncing harmlessly off our plastic hulls.Penguins escorted us, porpoising in sleek arcs beside the boats. Now and then, a humpback surfaced in the distance, reminding us that we were paddling through waters once ravaged by industrial whaling. The scars of that history remain in the old whaling bays we visited, but so too does the sense of revival, with humpback whale numbers slowly recovering in parts of the Southern Ocean.After rounding the northern tip of the peninsula, we headed through Antarctic Sound, a place of tabular icebergs and dramatic weather, on our way to Elephant Island.Elephant Island: Shackletons BeachIf ever a place deserved to be called wild, it is Elephant Island. Our landing point, Wild Point, is named after Frank Wild, Shackletons second-in-command. He oversaw the castaways camp, which is battered by katabatic winds, rimmed by cliffs, and hemmed in by shifting pack ice. Landings here are rare. Kayaking here is rarer still.The day we approached the island, it was surrounded by miles of heavy brash ice. Eventually, we not only reached the island but also launched the kayaks, which felt extraordinary.The beaches, if they can be called that, are thin ribbons of shingle squeezed between the sea and steep, icy rock faces. It is almost impossible to imagine 22 men surviving here for months under two upturned boats, eating penguins and the occasional seal while waiting for a rescue they were never sure would come.Chinstrap penguins were abundant during our visit, their colonies filling the air with noise and movement, though their numbers are declining in parts of the island due to declining krill stocks. Gentoo penguins were also present, both species echoing the diet that once sustained Shackletons marooned crew.We paddled around the bay and headland, savouring every moment. As the afternoon winds began to rise, a reminder that conditions can change in minutes, we made a timely retreat to the ship. Before leaving, we visited the bronze bust of Captain Luis Pardo, whose Chilean naval vessel, the Yelcho, rescued the Endurance men after earlier attempts were turned back by ice.Crossing the Scotia Sea: Following the James CairdFrom Elephant Island, our ship crossed the Scotia Sea toward South Georgia, tracing the approximate route of the James Caird. We covered the distance in three days. Shackletons tiny open boat took 16. To stand on deck and look out at the vast grey swell was to marvel at their survival once again.As we approached South Georgia, the peaks rose jagged and snow-laden from the sea. This is an island of ferocious beauty glaciers, tussock-grass valleys, and steep mountains abound. Wildlife is so abundant, it feels almost pre-industrial.King Haakon Bay: Landfall of the James CairdShackleton made landfall at King Haakon Bay on the islands exposed west coast. Even in a modern ship, you feel the raw force of the Roaring Fifties here. Yet we were fortunate. Conditions allowed us to sail inside the fjord. We passed Peggotty Bluff, named for the makeshift shelter fashioned from the James Caird. It is reminiscent of Peggottys overturned boat-house in David Copperfield.Kayaking in the same waters where the exhausted six men staggered ashore after their impossible voyage felt reverential. The scale of the cliffs, the surge of the swell, and the cold biting wind all hinted at what they endured.Stromness: The End of the Mountain CrossingFrom Peggotty Bluff, Shackleton, Worsley, and Crean began their legendary, sleep-deprived crossing to Stromness. Today, Stromness Whaling Station stands silent, with rusting machinery, collapsing buildings, and jagged remnants of a brutal industry. But the managers house is still recognisable, and it was here Shackleton finally knocked, asking for help.We launched the kayaks at Stromness and paddled along the coast, passing the station and heading toward Grytviken. The sense of history was immense. Few journeys combine physical adventure with storytelling as palpable as this coastline offers.Grytviken: Seals, Kings, and Shackletons Resting PlaceFrom Stromness, we relocated to Grytviken, another major whaling station in South Georgias heyday. The beaches were crowded with wildlife; fur seals jostling and barking, elephant seals sprawled in great heaps, and the king penguin standing serene among the chaos.Fur seal numbers on South Georgia have exploded in recent decades, and they can be territorial in the water. One large female made a mock charge at our kayak group, hissing with teeth bared. A reminder that even with experience, paddlers must stay alert.Elephant seals, by contrast, are enormous but generally placid, reaching up to three metres in length with a kind of lethargic dignity.After stowing the kayaks, we walked to Shackletons grave. After the Endurance expedition, Shackleton returned to the island in 1922 while leading another voyage. He suffered a fatal heart attack aboard his ship Quest while anchored in Grytviken. At his wifes request, he was buried here. Visitors traditionally toast him with whisky, To the Boss. It is a salute to leadership under unimaginable pressure.Why we paddle these placesVery few have the chance to kayak in the actual places where the drama of Shackletons story unfolded, in the fjords where the James Caird landed, beside the beaches where 22 starving men waited for rescue, or beneath the mountains that three determined men crossed with nothing but rope, nails hammered into boots, and an indomitable will.Leading this trip felt like paddling not just through stunning wilderness, but through history itself. Modern expedition ships make these journeys accessible, but the environment remains raw, elemental, and humbling.Sea kayaking in the footsteps of Shackleton is a privilege, blending adventure, wildlife, ice, and polar heritage like few destinations. As a Quark kayak guide, I feel fortunate to help paddlers experience a landscape where every element whispers stories from the Heroic Age of Exploration.