WORDS & PHOTOS: JOHN R. DEAN & SAM N. DEANJohn R. DeanSam N. DeanNice to eat you The tale of dubious friendship in the Scottish HighlandsThe west coast of Scotland offers some of the finest paddling in the world. It also offers some of the most persistent, organised, and frankly personal insect harassment youre ever likely to experience.The west of Scotland offers world-class opportunities for sea kayaking, canoeing, white water kayaking, packrafting and paddleboarding across sea lochs, islands, inland lochs, and rivers. It is, quite simply, one of the finest paddling destinations on the planet.However in summer, a hidden enemy can creep into your trip and quietly turn bliss into mild misery.The good news? This adversary only appears at certain times of day. Better still, we have ways some elegant, some slightly desperate to deal with it.What are we describing?The Scottish midge.The Highland midge (Culicoides impunctatus), or meanbh-chuileag in Gaelic (loosely translating as tiny fly), is a biting insect just 2-3 mm long with a wingspan of about 1.4 mm. Tiny, yes. Harmless-looking, perhaps. But underestimate it at your peril.In the Highlands, this species is responsible for roughly 90% of bites. It is not alone there are around 1,400 Culicoides species worldwide (everywhere except Antarctica, which should tell you something about Antarctica), with about 40 found in the UK.Among its relatives are:Culicoides halophilus (the coastal midge), loitering in salt marshes.Culicoides nubeculosus (the farm midge), more interested in livestock than you.Culicoides obsoletus (the garden midge), common in towns and lowlands.But it is the Highland midge that earns the reputation and the resentment.Why here? Because the Scottish Highlands are, from a midges perspective, paradise. Extensive peat bogs, high rainfall, cool temperatures, sheltered glens, and an all-you-can-eat buffet of deer, cattle and unfortunately you! Only the females bite. Sadly, they do not wear name badges.And they do not travel alone. When midges arrive, they arrive in numbers tens, hundreds, sometimes what feels like several million turning a peaceful evening into something resembling a low-level biological assault.Why Midges Bite (and Why They Like You More Than Your Friend)Midges dont just stumble across you. They are surprisingly sophisticated in how they find a meal.Carbon dioxide (CO2)This is their primary homing signal. They can detect CO2from breath at distances of up to 200 metres. So, breathing is a problem. Talking makes it worse. Puffing uphill with a loaded kayak? You might as well send out invitations. This is why they love your head.Body odour and skin chemistryCompounds such as lactic acid, ammonia, and fatty acids vary between individuals. Genetics, diet, skin microbiome all play a role. This explains the classic scenario: one person being eaten alive while their companion stands smug and untouched. Science calls this variation. The victim calls it deeply unfair.HeatMidges detect warmth. The face, neck, wrists and ankles are prime targets. Exercise, sunshine, and alcohol all increase skin temperature and therefore your appeal. Yes, that relaxed evening drink may be working against you.ColourMidges are drawn to dark colours black, navy, dark green, red. Light shades such as beige, khaki, or grey are less attractive. So, if youve packed all your kit in tasteful black youve made a tactical error.Humidity and still airThey thrive in warm, damp, windless conditions especially after rain and near bogs, lochs, and woodland. Introduce a breeze of just 5-6 mph and their enthusiasm drops dramatically. In short: wind is your friend.MovementMovement and vibration help them locate you. Standing still doesnt help either, unfortunately.Livestock and large mammalsMidges evolved to feed on deer, cattle, and sheep. Humans are simply convenient substitutesslightly less hairy, marginally more irritated.How they feed (brace yourself)Midges dont bite in the polite mosquito sense. They cut. Using scissor-like mouthparts, they slice the skin and drink from the small pool of blood that forms. Their saliva prevents clotting and triggers the familiar itchy lump. As a final flourish, they release pheromones that attract other females to join in.In short: once youve been discovered, youve effectively opened a restaurant. And since only females bite, you are directly contributing to the next generation. Youre welcome.Life Cycle (How the Problem Persists)The Highland midge operates on a four-stage life cycle, typically completed in 6-10 weeks.Eggs: Laid in damp soil, peat, marshes, or decaying vegetation. A female can produce 30-100 eggs and can lay her first batch without even needing a blood meal. Efficient.Larvae: Develop in moist, organic-rich soil, feeding on microorganisms. This stage lasts around 3-4 weeks and is the longest.Pupae: A brief, non-feeding stage lasting 2-3 days.Adults: Emerge in summer (JuneAugust), living 1-2 weeks. Females require blood to produce eggs; males, sensibly, stick to nectar.They overwinter as larvae and restart in spring. In warm summers, multiple generations can occurbecause one wave clearly isnt enough.The inconvenient truth: Midges are usefulReluctantly, it must be acknowledged that midges are not purely agents of misery. They are a key food source for bats, birds, spiders, and other insects. Remove midges and you disrupt entire food webs.Their larvae contribute to nutrient cycling, breaking down organic matter in peatlands and supporting microbial ecosystems. They play a role albeit small in pollination, particularly in harsh wetland environments where every pollinator counts.They are also bioindicators, signalling healthy, undisturbed peatland systems.And perhaps most importantly, they act as a subtle but effective form of land-use management. Large numbers of midges discourage overdevelopment and excessive human intrusion.In other words, they are guardians of wilderness. Irritating, persistent, airborne guardians.A historical irritationMidges are not a modern inconvenience.Queen Victoria reportedly abandoned a Highland picnic in 1872 after being half-devoured. Even royalty, it seems, is not immune.Another tale possibly more folklore than fact suggests a British general misheard the Gaelic word chuileag and coined hooligans after repeated encounters with biting swarms. Whether true or not, the sentiment feels accurate.Seasonality: when to expect troubleMidge season runs from late May to September, with peak intensity from mid-June to August.They are crepuscular most active at dawn and dusk. Calm, humid evenings are their ideal operating window. Warm, windless weather is perfect for midges. Add even a modest breeze and their activity collapses.There are now midge forecasts based on trap data and weather patterns because, frankly, this level of planning has become necessary. And yes, the most effective way to avoid midges is still not to visit Scotland. But that would be missing the point entirely.Camping: How not to become dinnerThe golden rule: seek exposure. Midges cannot cope with wind.Choose your campsite wiselyAvoid sheltered woodland, boggy ground, and still water. Look for exposed ridges, open ground, or coastal sites with airflow.Time your activityCook, pitch, and rest during breezy daylight hours. Avoid lingering at dawn and dusk.Cover upLight-coloured, loose-fitting clothing is best. Add a fine-mesh head net ideally worn over a hat so it doesnt cling to your face. Bug shirts are even better.Defend your tentYou need very fine mesh (less than 1.0 mm, ideally 0.6-0.8 mm). Standard mosquito netting simply wont do.Keep movingMidges are persistent, but not athletic. A short walk can often restore sanity.Top tips for paddlersHeres the good news: paddlers have an advantage. Midges struggle with moving air. Once youre on the water, youre largely safe. The danger lies in the margins launching, landing, and stopping.1. Use the waterKeep moving. Even gentle paddling disrupts them. If necessary, head 50100 m offshore for instant relief.2. Time it rightMid-morning to mid-afternoon is best. Avoid still, humid dawns and dusks.3. Dress strategicallyLight colours, loose layers. Avoid dark, tight fabrics. A paddling jacket is excellent protection.4. Protect your headCarry a midge net in your buoyancy aid. Put it on before landing, not after youve been introduced.5. Launch and land with purposeChoose exposed, breezy shorelines. Minimise standing around. Get in, get out, move on.Midge deterrents: what actually worksApply repellents strategically ankles, wrists, neck, behind the ears. Avoid hands and anything that touches your paddle.Chemical repellentsDEET, Picaridin, and IR3535 are all effective. They work, but may irritate skin or damage some materials.Natural alternativesCitriodiol (PMD), citronella, lavender, peppermint, tea tree, and bog myrtle products are widely used. Avon Skin So Soft has a loyal following though perhaps more anecdotal than scientific.Other optionsCO2-based traps and devices such as Thermacell units can create small protected zones. Coils and candles may help, but require care.Dietary approachesGarlic, vinegar, vitamin B are debated. Results vary from, Works brilliantly to Absolutely not.When (not if) you get bittenYou will get bitten. Accept it early it helps psychologically. Keep bites clean and resist scratching (easier said than done).Treatments include:Hydrocortisone cream.Antihistamine creams.Calamine lotion.Tea tree oil.Oral antihistamines for widespread irritation.Final thoughtsThe strategy is simple: find wind, avoid stillness, cover up, and keep moving. Do that, and the Scottish midge becomes manageable if not entirely lovable.And if you arrive in the Highlands to sunshine and a gentle breeze, you may feel youve wasted ten minutes reading this. But if the air is still, the light is fading, and the first faint cloud appears around your headYoull be very glad you did.

WORDS:LISA DREWEPHOTOS:LISA DREWEBioLisa is an award-winning outdoor writer, paddler and guidebook author, best known for her Paddleboarding book series published by Wild Things Publishing. She has explored hundreds of routes across Britain by paddleboard and kayak and writes regularly for outdoor and paddlesports publications.https://www.islandeering.comRead Lisas prior post on ten of the best paddling routes in London and thr South East at:https://paddlerezine.com/10-best-paddling-routes-in-the-se/Five early summer paddlesEarly summer is the perfect season to explore rivers, canals, and coastal waterways, as landscapes burst into colour and wildlife flourishes along the banks. Glide along the tranquil Crinan Canal past raised bogs and woodland, or take a tide-assisted journey to the sandy coves and dramatic cliffs of Rhoscolyn on Holy Island.Meander through the pastoral Stour Valley with its historic mills and riverside pubs, or explore peaceful Thames backwaters lined with spring flowers and manicured gardens. For a classic Cornish adventure, paddle from Truro to Falmouth, passing historic harbours, oyster beds, and scenic creeks that reveal the full charm of the Fal estuary.Lets explore these memorable early summer journeys, starting with the tranquil waters of Scotlands Crinan Canal.1. Crinan CanalLeaving Crinan Basin, this classic west coast paddle follows the tranquil line of the Crinan Canal south toward Loch Fyne. Often called Britains most beautiful shortcut, the canal offers sheltered water, rich wildlife, and a gentle journey through the heart of Argyll.Setting off, you glide past Bellanoch Marina and under Bellanoch Bridge, with the wild expanse of Mine Mhr Nature Reserve stretching along the northern bank. This raised bog is alive with birdlife, including hen harriers, curlews, and dragonflies in summer, making it a perfect early stop.At Dunardry, the first portage (about 750m) bypasses a flight of locks, followed by a similar carry near Cairnbaan. These short walks provide a break and let you take in the canals engineering and woodland scenery. Well-placed pontoons and towpaths make portages easy.Back on the water, the canal meanders toward Lochgilphead and Oakfield Bridge before the final portage at Ardrishaig. At Loch Fyne, paddlers are rewarded with expansive sea views a fitting end to a route blending sheltered paddling, history, and natural beauty.Access restrictions: No licence required, but please register your trip at www.scottishcanals.co.uk/visit/things-to-do/paddling/just-paddle-crinan-canal.Launching: Crinan Basin east of Lock 14, Lochgilphead, PA31 8SW. Grid ref. NR 7895 9435; Lat/long 56.09070, -5.55493.Parking: Crinan Canal Car Park (charges), Pier Square, Lochgilphead, PA31 8SW; launch point 100 metres from the car park.Getting there: from Lochgilphead, follow the signs to A816/Oban. After two miles, take the left turn to Crinan, through Cairnbaan on B841 and continue to Crinan Basin.OS Map: OS Explorer 358 Lochgilphead and Knapdale North.Pitstops: The Crinan Hotel also runs the Crinan Coffee Shop and Crinan Seafood Bar in Ardrishaig. Lucys at The Steamer Terminal offers fresh, locally sourced dishes and friendly service in a bright harbour setting, while The Rumblin Tum is a cosy, well-loved caf known for excellent breakfasts and homemade food.Special points: Large boats use the canal; always keep right and give way to larger vessels.FULL Route map: https://www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-crinan-canal/2. Inland Sea to Rhoscolyn, Holy Island, Anglesey (14 km return; tide-assisted)Glide south along the tidal Cymyran Strait, bordered by salt marshes, toward the striking rocky shores of Cymyran Bay and the sweeping sands of Borth Wen, Rhoscolyn.Head south from Four Mile Bridge past salt marshes until the water widens significantly (or on lower tides, vast sandbanks are exposed on both coastlines). Keeping to the deeper water channels, pass the islet of Ynys Ias, and the runways of RAF Valley on the left. The flow then quickens as the strait narrows towards the entrance to Cymyran Bay.Enter Cymyran Bay, head right past a couple of small pebble coves, to reach the full sweep of sandy Traeth Llydan. Continue along the base of the cliffs on this spectacular stretch of coastline to discover a wealth of colourful and wildlife-rich gullies and channels before turning into the sheltered cove to reach the crescent-shaped sands of Borth Wen, its characterful cottages, and old lifeboat station. A one-way trip requires a car at either end, or walk with your kit to Rhoscolyn village and take the bus back to Four Mile Bridge via Holyhead. Alternatively, return on the flood tide.Licence: No restrictions.Starting point: Four Mile Bridge, Anglesey, LL65 2PX. Grid ref. SH 280 784. What3Words: clapper.aunts.relate; Lat/long 53.274, -4.579. Launching Beach at Ynys Mn at the end of Four Mile Bridge on its south side.Getting there: A5 (Holyhead) to Valley, then first L on B4545 and continue past the station and over the A55 to Four Mile Bridge. Limited roadside parking along B4545 on the Holy Island end of Four Mile Bridge, or at nearby Pen y Bont campsite (charges), www.penybontfarm.co.uk, tel. 01407 740481.OS map: OS Explorer 242 Anglesey West.Special points: Flow in the Cymyran Strait is strongest at mid-tide, when water concentrates in the main channel; it is also when the water is the choppiest as it enters Cymyran Bay. Ideally, leave Four Mile Bridge between one hour before and up to two hours after high water. The coastline to Borth Wen can be paddled on all states of the tide, but arriving at low water will mean a long walk up the beach.For the tide-assisted return journey from Borth Wen, leave 1-2 hours after low water; and the best time to head north through the Cymyran Straits is 2.5+hrs after LW. Wind can funnel up and down the strait; always check wind speeds and direction before you leave. In a south wind start at Borth Wen and head to Four Mile Bridge 1-2 hours after low water to benefit from the wind assistance (and flood tide).FULL Route map: https://www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-inland-sea-to-rhoscolyn/3. River Stour Sudbury to Bures (11km one way; car/rail return)Peaceful trip along the Essex-Suffolk border, taking in the beauty of the Stour Valley with a classic pub stop along the way. Launch from Sudbury and turn left, downstream, past the traditional rural landscape of Dedham Vale with its open meadows and ancient grazing lands. After a long right-hand bend, keep left to Great Cornard Lock and portage. Continue past Mill Tye, a brick-built mill reflecting the areas industrial heritage. After 3.5 km, reach The Henny Swan, a popular riverside pub and gardens. Portage left of the weir and relaunch at the designated spot.Beyond the pub, the river winds through lush green meadows and pastures with cattle grazing the banks and willow trees arching over the river, forming a shaded green tunnel. Portage at Pitmire Weir, then continue through fields, valley sides, meadows, and ancient woodland. Portage at Lamarsh Weir, then pass under the B1508 approaching Bures with its medieval church on the left. Exit in the park or continue to Wharf Lane for the car shuttle or rail return.Access: Licence required, included in Paddle UK membership.OS map: OS Explorer 196 Sudbury, Hadleigh & Dedham Vale.Starting point: Sudbury Riverside at the end of Quay Road parking, grid ref. TL 872 407; What3Words birthdays.impulses.obliging; Bures Riverside in front of the Community Centre parking or, if arriving by train, the riverbank adjacent to the green space off Bridge Street south of the B1508 bridge, grid ref. TL 906 339. What3Words: erupt.newer.indirect.Parking: Sudbury End of Quay Lane, Sudbury, CO10 2AN. Grid ref. TL 871 407. What3Words dairy.wealth.passports; Bures Bures Community Centre (free), Nayland Road, Bures, CO8 5BX. Grid ref. TL 908 339. What3Words: types.prancing.flotation.Launching: Sudbury Footpath at the south end of Quay Road, turn left, walk over the bridge, then turn right under the trees to follow the east bank of the small tributary and the pontoon; Bures short walk across the sports field from the community centre parking to the river.Pitstops: Pub grub and local ales, Eight Bells, Bures, tel. 01787 227354; very popular gastropub on riverside, The Henny Swan, Henny Street, tel. 01787 267953.Hire and tours: The Paddle Company, The Henny Swan, tel. 07508 420104. By car: Once in Sudbury, follow brown theatre mask signs to Quay Lane parking next to the Quay Theatre.By rail: Bures and Sudbury both have stations close to the river, with regular trains from London Liverpool Street (www.greateranglia.co.uk).Special points: One lock and three weirs to portage on this trip. Check local river conditions before the trip at Sudbury riverlevels.uk/flood-warning-river-stour-from-sudbury. Summer weed growth can choke quieter parts of the river.Full route map: https://www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-river-stour-sudbury-to-bures/4. River Thames Backwaters (11km return)Explore a tributary on a scenic pub paddle from Sonning to Wargrave via St Patricks Stream and the River Loddon.Launch, head left under the B478 bridge, and continue past The Coppa Club Sonning. The river soon opens into meadows. After 2 km, at a right bend, turn right into St Patricks Stream.This winding channel meanders quietly through trees rich in birdlife. After 1.5 km, pass under another low bridge and take the right fork beyond, near a large farm, to join the River Loddon. Here, water lilies bloom in summer, and gardens line the banks. Rejoin the Thames, turn right, and continue to the gardens of the St George & Dragon.To return, paddle upstream along the Thames, portage at Shiplake Lock, and pass Phillimore Island and Hallsmead Ait. The river widens at Sonning Eyots, ideal for a final stretch before finishing at Sonning.Access restrictions: Licence required, included in Paddle UK membership.OS map: OS Explorer 159 Reading, Wokingham & Pangbourne.Starting point: Riverside next to the car park.Grid ref. SU 753 758. What3Words: groom.throw.broad.Parking: Car park opposite French Horn pub (free, but avoid adjacent hotel car park), Playhatch Road (B478), Sonning Eye, RG4 6TN. Grid ref. SU 753 759. What3Words: backup.misty.lies.Pitstops: Good food and river terrace at lively Coppa Club, Sonning, tel. 0118 807 8971; large riverside pub popular for food, St. George & Dragon, Wargrave, tel. 0118 940 4474.Getting there: J11 on the M4, onto the A33 to Reading, which merges with the A329; take the first exit at the roundabout onto the A4155 towards Caversham. At Playhatch, take the third exit at the roundabout towards Sonning; park in the car park on the right opposite The French Horn.Special points: St. Patricks Stream runs fast and narrow before opening out towards the confluence with the River Lodden, so its best paddled downstream. A small riffle is experienced just past the bridge as you start the streamway. Check river conditions at Sonning Lock before you start: riverlevels.uk/thames-sonning-sonning-lock. Higher flows will make the return journey very challenging, so you may wish to take a one-way trip and exit further downstream at Marsh Lock.Full route map: https://www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-river-thames-backwaters/5. Truro to Falmouth (16km one way; train return)A Cornish classic on the Truro and Fal rivers, between the cathedral city and the historic port of Falmouth, with plenty to see on the way. Launch from Boscawen Park and head downriver to Malpas, at the confluence of the Truro and Tresillian rivers, for refreshments at the great caf and inn. From here, the wooded far bank of the Tregothnan Estate, with lines of moored boats, curves round to the river Fal. Pass thatched Smugglers Cottage, where General Eisenhower stayed during the preparations for D-Day Landings, and the entrance to secluded Cowlands Creek.At mid-to-high tide, paddle up the creek to Coombe, enjoying views of Tregothnans tea plantations, or visit historic Roundwood Quay.Continue past the King Harry Ferry and the entrance to Channals Creek with views up to imposing Trellisick House (NT) on the hillside above. Turnaware Point offers an idyllic grassy picnic stop, and oysters can be foraged on the exposed shingle bar at low tides.Keep to the west shore of Carrick Roads, passing Loe Beach and Mylor harbour, then cross the busy entrance to the Penryn River to reach Fish Strands Quay slipway in Falmouth.Starting point: Boscawen Park, TR1 1SG.Grid ref. SW 8331 4364 (50.2529, -5.0411).Exit point: Fish Strand Quay (public slipway) TR11 3AH.Grid ref. SW8092 3287 (50.1553, -5.0684)Launching/exit: Slipway adjacent to car parksParking: Boscawen car park, Malpas Road, Truro, TR1 1SGPitstops: Malpas Heron Inn, tel. 01872 272773. Coombe Secret Cupboard and Tea Garden (check Instagram for opening). Loe Beach to-die-for homemade cakes, Loe Beach Caf, tel. 07976 834965Getting there: At the A39 Trafalgar Roundabout in Truro, turn off for Malpas, continue for 1km, then take the 3rd exit on the mini-roundabout to the car park.Special points: Timing is critical for this tide-assisted trip. Ideally, choose a spring tide and launch before high tide, using the ebb to assist the paddle to Falmouth (if starting from Falmouth, choose a flooding tide). A southerly wind funnels up the main estuary and, although reasonably sheltered for the first half of this trip, makes progress difficult past Turnaware Point into Carrick Roads and also leads to water chop. Plenty of boat traffic closer to Falmouth.Full route map: https://www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-truro-to-falmouth/

BY LIAM KIRKHAMLiam KirkhamLiam Kirkhams lessons from the river 2Ive spent an ill-advised amount of time, money and energy on kayaking. Its taken me all over the world and, despite never being a great kayaker, Ive racked up a fair bit of experience. Im not kayaking as much as I used to, but looking back, I realise some of my biggest life lessons have been handed out by the river. Though that may say more about my lack of education than anything.To make sense of it all, Id like to share some of these lessons with you in a series of true stories. Expect tangents, pseudo philosophy, solid advice and utter nonsense. Ill leave it up to you to decipher which is which, as we move from one river memory to the next.For context, my last article described the very early days of my kayaking journey in the early 2000s: two wetsuits, a cold river, and me, severely under-equipped in North Yorkshire. Clearly, I was the worst in the group. Now, lets fast-forward about 15 years for this next tale.The Sun Kosi, NepalWe were now on the final day of an eight-day raft-supported river trip on the Sun Kosi, Nepal a far cry from those cold swims on the River Wharfe. I was comfy and looking rather flash (I thought) in my top-end kit. How things had changed.Still, even after all that progress, I discovered there are a surprising number of different ways the river can humble you.The trip had been a success. The team a mix of paddlers from Australia, Devon, Hong Kong and the USA had bonded well. For many, this was their first multi-day river. Combined with their first experience of big water, it made for a genuinely challenging expedition. We were on the last day, the river was petering out, and people were in good spirits.Despite being a filthy little dirtbag in most of my life, I have a surprising habit on multi-day expeditions: I take hygiene very seriously. Water is treated, hands are scrubbed, etc.An infected cut or a stomach bug ripping through the group can ruin what is supposed to be the trip of a lifetime. One of the roles of the lead is to make sure everyone takes it seriously.However, my stomach is not the strongest, even at the best of times. Id turn the page now if you thought this was about how to tidy up your bow draw. Things are about to get messy.A familiar cramp in my stomachThe major rapids were done, the team was paddling well, and the excellent local guides were in control. Id taken a more laissez-faire approach to leading and was dawdling at the back when I felt a familiar cramp in my stomach. Then came the cold sweats in a warm country. Never a good sign. I knew the countdown was on. I needed to find a private, quiet spot now.Despite spending days in the wild, we were now heading toward civilisation. Beaches were either occupied by school kids, fishermen, funeral pyres, women washing clothes, or all of the above. Time was going fast and slow at the same time. Every ripple on the river pushed another wave of sweat over my body.Thoughts flooded my head. Was it my Sweet Shambhala shorts I had on under the spray deck? Why them? Theyre my favourite. And: Surely I cant hand this rental kayak back after this.Fate wasnt on my side. Any beach or patch of sand a human could reach was occupied. But then I spotted a possibility. A last-chance eddy. It wasnt perfect, but I could make it work. I was saved.It wasnt a beach, but a gentle 25-foot-wide pocket eddy tucked into a 15-foot cliff. Impossible to reach by foot and out of sight from anyone. It looked deep on the riverside but shallow enough near the cliff. I charged toward the sacred spot. My body stiffened in its final act of resistance against the inevitable.Things werent going to be that easy, though. The cliff edge wasnt as shallow as Id thought. The eddy, however, was gentler than Id realised. I had an idea.Now, cows tails (a bungee cord with a karabiner attached to your buoyancy aid) arent very popular in the UK. Ive always valued them for rescues on big-volume rivers. Today, theyd prove useful for another kind of rescueI popped my spray deck, swung my legs out and slipped free of the kayak, keeping it upright. Now I was afloat, spinning gently in the eddy, clinging tightly to my sun-kissed Pyranha Everest. I slid my paddle into the cockpit, shuffled to the bow and clipped the cows tail to the front grab loop.Clipped together, I had effectively created a hands-free system for me, the kayak and the paddle. We spun gently, the eddy wall keeping us contained in the natural pocket. A merry dance and with not a moment to spare, I had my chance in my private oasis.BlissI peeled my neoprene shorts down, closed my eyes, gripped my life jacket, and let go. Bliss. Liam, you genius. Youve done it. You sneaky little devil.The instant relief was quickly overridden by shame. Flailing around in the slack water, shorts at my ankles, bum bobbing at the surface and attached to a bright yellow kayak, I thought, This is a new low, you filthy little rat. What on earth is wrong with you?However, my body stopped shivering. I was myself again. I could hear the rush of water, feel the warmth of the sun, and I began coming to terms with my shame.Then another sense kicked in. Sight not mine. Someone else had seen this debacle. I scanned the opposite riverbank. Empty. Then I knew. I knew before I looked. I tilted my head back.A whole family sat on top of the cliff, looking down into my swirling chamber of solitude. They werent speaking. Eyes locked on mine. They had just watched a sweaty, panicked man in a bright green top charge into the riverbank, hop out, reveal his impossibly white bottom and tarnish the river of gold.A hot, red embarrassment flooded me. I unclipped and cowboy-scrambled back into the kayak. They politely pretended to look into the middle distance.Back in England, still laughing about the trip, I had time to reflect. The river didnt just humble me; it reminded me that things can go wrong no matter how much I prepare. Accepting that, and moving forward, is what really matters.Lesson 2: s**t happens.

Words:Katie Annice CarrPHOTOS:Katie Annice Carr,Mike Mayberry,Nicky Mansell,Julie Perren &Saintha AlamKatie Annice CarrThundery at Times: sea kayaking the Shipping Forecast (Part 2)Avid readers of these pages may remember the article published in June 2023 (https://paddlerezine.com/toby-carr/) about my brother Toby Carrs challenge to sea kayak the Shipping Forecast. Some of you may have read Moderate Becoming Good Later, the book I wrote about this based on his notes, photos, and extensive front-of-the-kayak GoPro footage, or perhaps you saw his story on the BBC Travel Show in 2024. For those who havent, Toby was an advanced sea kayaker leader who, in three separate expeditions and some day paddles in between, kayaked in 17 of the 31 Shipping Forecast areas before he was thwarted by cancer and died aged 40 in January 2022. I was determined that his story was not to end there.The idea of finishing Tobys challengeAfter a year researching, writing, and editing the book he intended to author, I was feeling confident and itching to get outside and give this sea kayaking lark a go. Id paddled a sit-on-top in a French gorge and on a cold flat sea in Jersey, so the idea of finishing Tobys challenge had nothing to do with any paddling skills I possessed. I knew I would have to learn along the way.While this was daunting, it also felt possible, thanks to the community of sea kayakers Id connected with and interviewed for the Moderate Becoming Good Later. It was these friends, acquaintances and Facebook users who I tapped up to help me complete the challenge.One sunny January morning in 2023, my aunt Nicky Mansel, with help from Marc Martin in Palams, got me in a sea kayak for the first time. I was pleased our short, fair-weather Mediterranean paddle was an enjoyable experience, because in my head, Id already committed to kayaking the rest of the Shipping Forecast.Toby, being my little brother, had left me all the cold, wet and windy bits, all of Ireland, Scotland, Wales and the Northeast of England. I knew it would be a very different experience from my urban Barcelona family life, but that was what made it so appealing, although I wasnt up for taking any big risks.I knew a lot about how Toby prepared for his trips, and it was clear that, like most sea kayakers Ive met, he was careful, informed himself, and took calculated risks. For my part, I knew I would not be paddling alone: I would have to ask for help and rely on others.To start with, I tentatively contacted Tobys closest paddling allies, our aunt and uncle Nicky and Kevin, and his friends Michal, Natalie, Owen and Sarah. While Nicky helped me thrash out a general plan (which sea area, when), Kevin, Michal and Natalie supported me, and Sarah and Owen put me in contact with Katie (featured here) for my first paddle down the Bristol Channel from Clevedon.I started out thinking finishing Tobys challenge would be a joint effort, and in many ways it was, but I was surprised by the single-mindedness I needed to keep the paddles connected, reach out, and plan the next trip. I was very aware that many people also felt a Toby-shaped hole in their lives, and I wanted everyone who wished to be involved to feel welcome to join. For a long time, I felt guilty about being such a rubbish kayaker and about taking on his challenge, but I think he would have been pleased that I was on the water with his boat.As I continued on to Pembrokeshire with Mike Mayberry and Anglesey with Tobys friends Ali, Lindsey and Tom, it felt like I was already in a tide race and my only option was to keep paddling forward until I was through it. That said, my paddles through the Shipping Forecast over the year and a half it took me to finish were substantially more enjoyable than my accidental first experience of the outer Penrhyn Mawr.IrelandIt was in Ireland, off Dalkey, with a group of kayakers from the East Coast Kayak Club, that the journey began to feel like my own. As I bagged my first ever island, ineptly dealing with the bumpy water, as a baby seal lounged on a rock close by, and sea birds I couldnt name flew above my head. How on earth did I get here? I thought, not for the last time. Tenacity, logistics, encouragement, and a desire to feel closer to Toby were among the answers.Toby had never paddled in Ireland, and his notoriety had seemingly not crossed the Irish sea. There was no friend of a friend to help me get on the water, and as the date of our ferry departure had drawn near, Id woken up in the night worrying about how I was going to paddle in the five Shipping Forecast areas which touch Ireland: Irish Sea, Fastnet, Shannon, Rockall and Malin.It was the Sea Kayak Ireland Facebook page that saved the day. I told my story and shared where and when I hoped to paddle, and suddenly I had offers of help from complete strangers across the country. Including Jon and Ruth, who Ive featured. It was here that I realised people were helping me, not as Tobys sister but as a kayaker on a challenge (albeit one with a bit of a story).The weather turned out to be the biggest challenge in Ireland (which was no great surprise). For most of our stay, Met ireanns map showed the yellow small craft warning (meaning wind was above a F6) on all its shores, which one kayaker described as the halo of Ireland.Each person I paddled with overcame the weather for me with a different creative solution. Sometimes we started somewhere very sheltered and slowly nosed out. Other times, we paddled in the wind and rain or rafted up with a sail. On occasion, we left at 06:00 in the morning to beat a brewing storm, or nipped out for a quick mammy paddle between rain and commitments.I left Ireland after paddling in each sea area and had a strong thirst for more time discovering its impressive coastline. Michals comment to Toby written in his notes came to mind, You should always leave something to do for next time. Id left most of the country for next time, but I figured that was part of the deal when I decided to learn along the way.Western ScotlandAs I continued the challenge into Western Scotland that summer, I realised my paddling skills had improved. I was still far from Tobys off-shore-island-visiting, tide-race-loving, long-distance kayaking. But paddling started to feel like something I did for me, not just for Toby. By the end of 2023, Id bagged seven shipping forecast areas of my own.I should clarify what bagging a sea area means. Tobys goal was simply to sea kayak in each forecast area. This did not require paddling the entire coastline or travelling between areas (though he sometimes did). Toby had also been unsure how to handle the four sea areas without land. After considering the possibilities, I decided not to pursue them due to safety and cost concerns. That left me with four more areas to finish in 2024.I started the year thinking about giving up. My focus on Tobys dreams had pulled me away from my own, created tension in my young family and put me into financial difficulties. I was torn between doing what I said I would do and the realisation that even if I completed it, Toby wouldnt suddenly come back to life.A freezing April day with the Lakeland Canoe Club in the shadow of Lindisfarne Castle reminded me how far Id come. While a bright, challenging paddle further down the coast with Tynemouth Canoe Club into the Tyne reminded me that it was worth the effort. So, I pulled my wetsuit socks up and got on with paddling Forth, Cromarty and Fair Isle with differing degrees of success thanks to the wind.Climbing a sea stack in ShetlandThe finale of Tobys challenge to sea kayak the Shipping Forecast was climbing a sea stack in Shetland and flying the flag with the logo he designed for his expeditions starting in 2018, long before the project became two books and a documentary.It has been a special way of keeping Toby alive, if only in the pages of a book or a magazine. For his part, it feels to me as if Toby left me the breadcrumbs to connect with the sea kayaking community, who wholeheartedly supported my discovery of nature and this varied, mostly beautiful pastime. I feel enormous gratitude to Toby and everyone Ive met along the way Im sorry I cant mention you all here.Thundery at Times, my memoir of this journey and what led to it, was published last month and is available in all good bookshops and online.InterviewsI met so many brilliant paddlers on my adventures around the Shipping Forecast. Below you will find four interviews that I did with some of the people. The Q&As are about how challenging ones self in different ways can develop you as a kayaker and a person. Hope you find them useful.Lundy: Katie WiltshierKatie WiltshierKatie helped me get on the water in my first sea area, Lundy, with a group of kayakers from the Avon Outdoors Activities Club for a paddle down the Bristol Channel and back with the tide.What is the most enjoyable kayaking challenge youve set yourself?Paddling from Barra down the island chain to Barra Head on Berneray. We had perfect conditions; it was like a dream. Calculating the tides is a challenge; different things happen on the east and the west of the island lots of tide races and whirlpools. And when you reach Barra Head, you know the next stop is America.How did you start sea kayaking?I was a whitewater paddler and a sailor before I started sea kayaking, so I understood the sea. I wanted to give something back to the club, and there were no sea kayak leaders, so I thought Id give it a go.To begin with, I was terrified of anything other than flat water, but I really wanted to take people out. I had a lot of encouragement and some great coaches.In the early days, a friend set up a Facebook page for me called Katies Sea Kayaking Adventures, which helped me imagine what was possible. I eventually worked my way to Advanced Sea Kayak Leader, which previously seemed impossible.What is it you love most about kayaking?I love the freedom, just the feeling of being afloat, being in a special place with your friends and no one else. I love leading too: taking people out to islands and places theyd never otherwise visit. Im lucky to have Dave Elkinton, who is an excellent coach and a really reliable second person to have on trips.Where is your favourite place to paddle within 50 miles of where youre based?Lundy Island, its cliffs are so varied, you can expect seals and puffins, and when you land, its a nice place; theres a community on the island. I solo paddled the three-hour (11 nautical mile) crossing, and when I landed, news travelled fast that the paddler had arrived.I also enjoy paddling the Bristol Channel. Before lockdown, I would never have chosen it, but I came to appreciate it a lot in those pandemic years.Fastnet: Jon HynesJon HynesI met Jon at the Irish Sea Kayaking Association meet in Schull in 2023, but before that, hed been instrumental in helping me connect with other Irish paddlers who could help me get on the water. Jon is a lynchpin of Irish (and to be fair, European) kayaking, as well as being a thoroughly nice bloke.What is the most enjoyable kayaking challenge youve set yourself?All solo paddling, where you stay overnight camping and are completely self-sufficient. Youre accountable for all your own decisions. You plan and prepare, then decide to pursue opportunities when they present themselves. I once decided to paddle the whole Cork coastline as fast as I could. I really enjoyed that challenge. I had paddled all the sections in previous trips, but linking them all together and going fast alone was a real buzz.How did you start sea kayaking?I was 11 years old, and my cousin James (two years older) was in K1 Kayak racing. I thought, That looks fantastic, Id love to give that a go.I spent three months rolling in a swimming pool with my local club doing a course, then finally got on the sea. Ive been paddling for over 40 years, and I still have the same energy and enthusiasm for it as on the first day.I set myself the goal of becoming a Level 5 sea kayaking instructor as my zenith, and when I reached it, I realised it did not complete me. Im ok with that this incompleteness keeps the appetite for learning, exploration, creativity, and humility alive.What is it you love most about kayaking?I love the challenge of finding the right way to help someone else make sustainable progress in kayaking, helping them see that they are improving and how to achieve their adventure dreams/goals. Over the years, Ive given a lot of thought to how sea kayaking develops our self-leadership skills. It is the depth of your awareness, the quality of your decisions, and your willingness to learn from the sea. The ocean remains my greatest teacher.Where is your favourite place to paddle within 50 miles of where youre based?The Old Head of Kinsale. Ive done tonnes of trips there, and I never tire of it. During Covid, I spent four days discovering every nook and cranny, even though it had all been done before, just immersing myself in nature. The sea wears different clothes every day. Were lucky to have world-class sea kayaking on our doorstep.Shannon: Ruth BrackenRuth BrackenI met Ruth when I was stormbound in Kilrush, where I almost paddled with her and Mike Conroy in a gale, but thought better of it at the last minute not before Ruth had tested the waters for us all.What is the most enjoyable kayaking challenge youve set yourself?The first time I went from Kilkee on my own under the cliffs to Farrihy Bay and back, a total of 12km. I enjoy the challenge of paddling on my own sometimes Ive been doing it more lately, as I need to paddle at my own pace due to a shoulder problem. I also enjoy taking someone somewhere and taking on the responsibility.How did you start sea kayaking?I was a river kayaker when I lived in Dublin, paddling the Liffey and other rivers. Before that, I was a diver in my teens always a water person. I did a five-day sea kayaking course with Stephen Hannon an inspiring sea kayaker island hopping and camping with a small group. I got more into sea kayaking, eventually making regular trips to the coast. I had a holiday cottage on the west coast, and when, because of the Covid pandemic, I had to come back from living abroad in Uganda, where I was a volunteer, I came to Clare and eventually decided to stay here.What is it you love most about kayaking?When youre out there paddling for some time, and you take a moment to think, Oh my God, look where I am! So many people never get to do this. I recently went back to a nearby cave Id explored with friends some years ago. It felt special to share the experience the first time, and when I went back and found it again recently, I thought, Thank you, God, Dave and friends for bringing me here.I love that when you are out there in a group, its so individual, but you are also interdependent, looking out for each other and respecting each persons enjoyment of the moment. Finally, theres the feeling of planning everything thoroughly, then changing as necessary which is a good skill for life.Where is your favourite place to paddle within 50 miles of where youre based?Loop Head down through the gap (if you havent seen it, its a tall, layered cliff like a slice of cake with a piece cut out). Once you start, you have to keep going; there are no get-outs. It can be very challenging, too. I was there once with five other people, and as we came through the other end, smiling dolphins started leaping into the air, as if welcoming and applauding us.Forth: Clare EadieClare EadieI paddled with Clare under the Forth Rail Bridge as the wind increased and we continued braving the water for the BBC. She was a source of calm, competence at a moment when I struggled to even turn my boat.What is the most enjoyable kayaking challenge youve set yourself?At this stage in my life, Im happy with who I am, so I dont particularly feel the need to challenge myself other than to get out paddling as much as I can and to stay fit. I love going on trips and camping out in the kayak, so I want to do it for as long as I can. Of course, the weather and conditions can always be a challenge, and you just have to deal with them.How did you start sea kayaking?It was 10 or 11 years ago; a friend asked me to come along and paddle a dragon boat with her group. I really enjoyed it and ended up signing up for the paddle ports club at Port Edgar. They were looking to fill the last spots on an Introduction to Sea Kayaking course and offered it at half price. So, between my canny nature and the fact that I didnt have plans that weekend, I signed up and never looked back. Then I joined the Lothian Sea Kayak Club.Due to a previous shoulder injury, Ive never risked learning to roll, which has prevented me from progressing through the sea kayak award levels, so I see myself as a competent peer paddler but not a leader. I contribute to planning, and Im happy to get on the water and support others who do the same.What is it you love most about kayaking?Being on the water, sitting in a kayak, is the perfect place to be. I love that camaraderie with others, seeing such nice things the coastline, the wildlife. Being with like-minded people and going to lovely places where no one else is around.Where is your favourite place to paddle within 50 miles of where youre based?Can we extend that to 90 miles? If so, Id say the Island of Bute over on the Clyde Coast. Were lucky in Scotland to have lots of islands to paddle around. I love Lismore too, north of Oban Ive been there often, and its always nice going back to the same places; they always look different, and you see things you havent seen before. Of course, over in the east, we also have North Berwick and out to the Bass Rock, but Id much rather drive an hour longer and be out on the west coast.

FINN MELLON: FIJI WORLD CUP TRAVEL VLOG77 HOURS TRAVELING!FINN MELLON: FIJI WORLD CUP TRAVEL VLOG77 HOURS TRAVELING!Finn Mellon has touched down in Fiji for the upcoming 4 Star event at Cloudbreak but it took a monster 77 hour travel mission to get there! Check out his latest blog that shows the behind the scenes steps on his way to one of the best waves on the planet!The post FINN MELLON: FIJI WORLD CUP TRAVEL VLOG77 HOURS TRAVELING! appeared first on Windsurf Magazine Online.

Words: Emy McLeodEmy McLeodPhotos: Emy McLeod, Liam Green & Ray GoodwinIf interested in Coastal Canoeing expeditions or coaching in Scotland, reach out to Emy McLeod (www.empaddlesports.co.uk) or Liam Green (https://greenwaveguiding.co.uk).Canoeing the Scottish coastlineI wanted to put together a piece about canoeing on the coastal waters, not as a statement that it is a great thing to do, which it is, but more as a metaphor for life, for seeing nature in one of its rawest forms, a much-needed reminder that the world is a beautiful place, amongst the chaos that is around us. It is easy to say slow down, take time out, go spend time in the great outdoors, but doing that can be challenging; it is the euphoric feeling that drives you to do more of it. I feel it, and others do too.Why do I like paddling rivers? Adrenaline. Fast water. The technical challenge, the movement, the way the water meanders and travels.Why do I like paddling lochs? Openness. The challenge the wind presents, the remoteness of the places you can visit, and, in those moments, finding connection with the water.Sea paddling, in turn, offers a unique set of experiences.I had the fear!At first, sea paddling was not something I had much interest in; the sea is vast, it is deep, the oceans are constantly shifting tides rise and fall. In all honesty, I had the fear! I avoided the sea despite reading articles, blogs, and books about coastal journeys, all of which inspired me to launch the boat into the salty waters. It was through the understanding of the environment, which is more than just wind, and then gradually pushing myself into these environments, from a range of crafts: canoe, paddleboard and sea kayak.Paddling with experienced sea paddlers increased my confidence, skill set & understanding I still recall this one particular trip where my personal limit was tested, paddling round Reiff, West Coast of Scotland, and Liam pointing our direction of travel; then within a few moments I was seeing rising peaks and dipping troughs as our boats danced on different waves. Paddled on through and then to be reunited in calm waters, greeted by a swarm of jellyfish, a chuckle and a breath of relief that I had stayed upright.Paddling on the sea, especially along a rugged coastline, opens up a world that feels both ancient and undiscovered. The sea is constantly shifting, waves picking out unseen paths through rocks as they reach the shore, and cliffs and coves reveal white-sand beaches accessible only by water. The geology is incredible, with paddling past billion-year-old rock features that reveal the Earths plates that folded during continental collision.Many factors to considerEvery journey, whether it is a day or a multi-day trip, feels exploratory, as though youre paddling along the edges of the coastline, where the land meets the sea, on your own voyage of discovery. It is not without planning or judgement; there are many factors to consider before taking boats onto the water, including carefully planned routes to utilise the tides, and understanding currents is a necessity when paddling on the sea.Have the knowledge before venturing on such journeys, or book a guide who not only has the knowledge but also experience in that location and how tides and currents affect it. Local knowledge is so valuable in all environments. Read the guidebooks, seek out localised information and plan carefully.Coastal canoeing is my favourite environment, not just because of its beauty and sense of adventure, but with its natural ability to challenge paddlers to stretch their comfort zones and grow, while still enjoying every single moment of it. Dont knock it until you try it! Lyndsay McPhee; LM CoachingLyndsay McPheeCenturies of historyCoastal environments are also alive with marine life and rich with stories. Stories of selkies and kelpies! Folklore is entwined with guiding; in Scotland, the phrase tales as old as time really does resonate with me.There is more to places than paddling through them; there are centuries of history that connect people to the sea, stories of bravery, of death, and stories of mermaids and enhancement. When you visit these places, seek out the history, explore island ruins, research the area beforehand, talk to locals, and become part of the landscape and its story. It is a reason I love guiding, sharing stories, and fostering that connection between people and places.WildlifeMarine life can take your breath away, paddling on the coast is not a guaranteed seals or your money back, but in certain conditions and a bit of chance, dolphins, porpoises, minke whales and in the right place at the right time, orca. Watching marine life comes with responsibility; seals, for example, can be easily disturbed and return to the sea from their sunbathing spots.Exploring coastlines and journeying at sea, along with watching wildlife, can be done in ways that minimise disturbance by keeping a good distance and watching quietly through binoculars. Though when a minke whale breaches beside your boat that is a moment to remember!Moments captured on camera are great; equally great, if not more so, is the memory of the awe of seeing such animals, which will remain forever.Wildlife is all around you when paddling on the sea. While a lot of focus can be on looking for seals or dolphins in the water or up in the skies for the majestic Sea Eagle, theres more to discover. Take a closer look at what is living on the rocks: limpets, anemones, barnacles and sea slugs! An array of bright colours and creatures so small yet so significant.Sea that glistens is not all goldThere are large areas of coastline that are damaged by marine debris; storms cause fall-offs from ships; fishing nets become tangled and become eye-sore decorations draping the rocks and beaches; fenders and buoys come loose and make homes in unwanted places. Human waste, plastic bottles, straws, and other plastics all make their way to our waters. There is a big push to clean up the coastlines and oceans to prevent pollution and reduce, and ultimately stop, the damage to marine wildlife and ecosystems.Cleaning up inaccessible by foot locations is one way we, as paddlers, can help reduce pollution. Equally, when on expedition, take a spare dry bag and promote a five-minute cleanup at lunch or camp sites where there is washed-up debris. It is sad that such places of beauty, when given closer attention, reveal the impact of human disregard for the surrounding environment.Having been a sea kayaker, so when I got a canoe, it seemed natural to take it on the sea. I love the freedom and versatility of the canoe, whether I paddle it or sail it. It can be a journey entirely at sea or just part of a much bigger trip. It requires the application of judgment, sound choices, and an understanding of a canoes limitations. Timings are dictated by tide and weather rather than a nine-to-five mindset. My canoe allows me to continue those connections with a natural world far more powerful than I am. One that must be worked with and not fought. I relish my times at sea in my canoe. Ray GoodwinRay GoodwinBefore taking to the coastal watersTake the time to plan and research how tides work and how they will impact your day and/or expedition. Study the map. Are there areas where a narrowing will cause a faster flow? Perhaps book a coastal navigation and tidal planning course, or find a guide with experience and knowledge of the area you plan to visit. Do you already have the knowledge? Get the map out and start planning your coastal adventure!To help you make the most of your adventure, consider these top tips:Pack binoculars.Check the weather and the tides multiple apps can be used for this.Take time to journey, often wildlife is spotted when you travel more slowly and look for it.Plan the trip.Challenge yourself, but not beyond your limits.There are remarkable areas to paddle along the coastline, giving a sense of adventure. I hope to read about some of yours soon, too!

WORDS:DEL CLAREPHOTOS:DEL & TOM CLARE, Phil Hay, Jess Shreeve, Tom Laws & Emma WarrenDel Clarehttps://delkayaks.co.uk @del_likes_kayakingAll smiles at the Plas y Brenin ShePaddles weekend May 2026The ShePaddles weekend at Plas y Brenin returned in early May. Since 2022, I have attended each event as a Pyranha Kayaks ambassador. Each year, it feels like the event grows. It is now one of the highlights of my paddling calendar.The weekend brings paddlers from across disciplines together for workshops, coaching, and plenty of opportunities to connect over cake. Its genuinely one of the most joyful events I get to be part of. This year, I was also invited to give the Saturday night talk, which made it extra special.Friday arrivalI arrived at Plas y Brenin (PyB) in the evening, full of excitement for the weekend ahead. The mountains of Eryri (Snowdonia) stood out in the evening light, and it felt so lovely to be back!I went to the reception to sign in and was immediately greeted by friendly and familiar faces, both PyB staff and other women who were signed up as participants for the weekend. Not to mention the Paddle Cymru volunteers who were busily handing out event t-shirts (from OShea) and fun goody bags from Pyranha and P&H sea kayaks.Jess from P&HI also met Jess in reception, who had just arrived from P&H Sea Kayaks. Jess works at P&H as a laminator, and it was great that she was able to come along on P&Hs behalf, ready to share her sea kayaking knowledge. Whilst I know my whitewater kayaks, I am relatively ignorant about sea kayaks. It was good to know Jess was there to direct any sea kayaking questions!The rest of the evening was spent catching up with folks in the bar. There were some icebreaker activities in the lecture room, but there were also lots of nice conversations in a more relaxed setting. It was lovely to catch up with old friends in attendance as both participants and coaches, and to make some new ones!I particularly enjoyed catching up with the lovely Sarah Keight, whom I first met here at Plas y Brenin. Sarah is an ambassador for Venture Canoes and a fantastic coach and person. We get on very well, and so I was thrilled to see her again and catch up with her news!Saturday at Plas y BreninI woke early on Saturday and slipped out for a quiet walk around the lake. It is so peaceful to look out across the mountains of Eryri and to take a few moments for myself. My life is always so busy, and moments like this are really appreciated! A moment to breathe before the business of the day began!Breakfast was about to be served, and it was a great chance to catch up with more people, including the wonderful Mollie and Kerry from Peak Paddlesports. This was Kerrys first full paddling weekend since having her two beautiful daughters, and it felt really special to share the weekend with her as she found her paddling feet again.Morning welcomeAfter a brief staff briefing, we gathered in the lecture room for Graces official welcome. Shes been at PyB for years and pours so much heart into organising the ShePaddles weekend. She was a constant, calm presence all weekend, and it was lovely to see her officially welcome everyone.We went outside for a big group photo in the sunshine. Then we split into our morning paddling groups. There was a lovely mix of excitement and nervous energy as everyone found their instructors for the first session.Morning session Forward paddling techniqueFor the morning session, I joined Spikes forward paddling workshop. Forward paddling is one of those skills that every paddler, no matter their experience, can always improve on. Of course, if you improve your forward paddling, you will also improve your white-water paddling, so I was excited to work on mine!Our group included Carolyn, Sarah, Julie, Marion, Niamh, Kerry, and Lisa. It was a nice mix of familiar and new faces. We geared up, grabbed our P&H sea kayaks, and headed to the calm lake. The perfect water lets us focus on technique!It was a great session! Spike broke everything down into small, focused components, and it was amazing how much difference tiny changes to each part could make! After a couple of hours, my core was feeling it, and my brain felt pleasantly overloaded, but I could also genuinely see improvements in my technique.Lunch catch upWe wrapped up and returned for lunch. It was a lovely day, and so I ended up sitting outside for most of the lunch break chatting to various people.I heard great tales from the introductory sessions, which were happening in canoeing, kayaking, SUP, sea kayaking and rolling. There were also introductory sessions on different disciplines of kayaking, such as freestyle and slalom, as well as sessions focusing on safety and rescue, and on physical training. Everyone seemed to be buzzing from their first session.I also loved catching up with the fabulous Becky Green, who was running the freestyle sessions. Becky is on the GB Freestyle Team and brings a lot of skill and enthusiasm to her coaching. Since she moved away from Nottingham, weve missed her a lot, so it was lovely to hear about her adventures in North Wales and to see her sharing her expertise with everyone this weekend.Afternoon session introduction to slalomIn the afternoon, I joined the Introduction to Slalom session, led by my friend Chips (Andy Kettlewell). My only previous experience in a slalom boat involved edging without a spray skirt and instantly flooding it, so I was excited to give it a proper go and this time with a spray skirt!Our group included Clair, Anna, Charlotte, Jules, Linda and Kerry, and once we were kitted up, we headed onto the lake in our slalom kayaks.It was so much fun! We started slowly, working through a sequence of four gates. Each time, Chips gave us new tips and techniques to try.Halfway through, my lovely friend Katie appeared with her dog Ozzy (wearing his very cute outdoor sunglasses), so I left the group for a quick hello and catch-up!I then re-joined the group to discover we were now working on dip turns! It was super fun to try to learn a new technique. We trialled a couple of different approaches, and I found that it had many similarities to the technique for a tailee.I am not a fast learner, but I really enjoy the opportunity to learn something new. Trying something repeatedly with small changes each time until it works gives you so much satisfaction! I know the ladies in the group felt the same. There were definitely wobbles (and a couple of swims), but thats because people were pushing themselves to try the move and not just paddle like they normally would! Everyone made so much progress it was great to see.Towards the end of the session, we were joined by Mollie, who paddles slalom competitively. She demonstrated to me and explained how to turn the dip around a pole. Something just clicked! I was so excited to actually get it and shouted over to Chips, Look what Mollie taught me! To which Kerry yelled out, Thats what Chips has been trying to teach you to do ALL session you just werent listening! Which, to be fair, was absolutely true! So thank you, Mollie AND Chips, for teaching me to dipturn!We finished by running the original gate sequence again, putting all our new skills together. It was a lovely way to end the session.If youve not paddled a composite kayak before, you need to enter and exit it on the water, as they are very fragile. I got into the kayak with no problem, but getting out wasnt as smooth. As I pushed up on the side, the boat shot out from under me, and I was left halfin, halfout in a press-up position! I used my core strength to pull me back in, but not before the entire group had seen and had a good giggle!Cake and chatOnce boats were loaded and everyone changed, there was some downtime for cake and chats. The Plas Y Brenin cake was famously good and just what was needed after a day on the water.I had some really lovely conversations, including one with Abby, who told me she was an aspiring writer but wasnt sure where to begin. I invited her to write a short reflection on her weekend experience, which she was keen to do. I have shared it below:Evening talkAfter dinner, it was time for my evening talk, Becoming the Happiest Paddler on the Water. Id been looking forward to sharing this one. It grew from a blog I wrote last year about a growth mindset, which sparked many conversations both online via my social media accounts and in person. It felt special to bring those ideas together properly and talk about how Ive shaped my own mindset to keep kayaking a positive, joyful part of my life.Anyone who knows me will confirm that I have a reputation for being an excitable chatterbox, especially when the topic is kayaking. This, combined with being a teacher and therefore used to presenting all day, every day, means that I feel pretty at home standing at the front of the room. The audience was brilliant welcoming, engaged, and ready to get involved in the interactive bits! (Thanks for this, everyone!)These two things meant I came away feeling genuinely energised by giving the talk and grateful to Plas Y Brenin for inviting me to speak.The rest of the evening was spent with plenty of good conversations, a lively Ceilidh, and a warm atmosphere. I lost track of how many lovely chats I had with people everyone was just so nice.Sunday Adventures off-siteSunday is the big adventure day, with groups heading offsite for fullday activities. Some paddlers went to the coast in sea kayaks or on paddleboards, others explored local rivers in canoes or mixed craft, and three white water groups headed to the Dee and the Tryweryn.I joined the advanced white-water group, which was coached by Laura Wynne and Chips. The attendees were Nicola, Renee, Emma, Holly, Mol, Issy, Julie and Charlotte. We had a group briefing at Plas Y Brenin before heading off to the Tryweryn!The Tryweryn is a fantastic place to kayak. Everyone in the group had paddled there before, with many paddling there regularly. Yet, there is so much opportunity for challenges to be set and learning to happen in this section of white water. We arrived, and it was brilliant sunshine, which helped with a positive atmosphere as we geared up.We got on the water and had a good time surfing the top wave. I challenged everyone to a party surf, and for a brief moment, they did manage to get all eight of them on the wave, which was awesome! Sadly, I wasnt quite quick enough with the camera, but the laughter from everyone made up for it!We made our way down the river, stopping often for coaching and challenges. There were a few swims and wobbles along the way, but I loved how everyone threw themselves into each task and didnt let any setbacks stop them! No hole was left undiscovered, no eddy left uncaught and no wave left unsurfed!We spent a long time on the Upper Graveyard section with Chips and Laura, setting little challenges. One of my favourites included surfing a small hole mid-river to get the eddy directly opposite. Issy and I didnt catch it the first (or second) time, but our determination meant we got it on the third! Challenges are only fun when you have to work for them, and I love it when friends introduce me to new moves on familiar rivers.We headed down the rest of the Graveyard, where the focus of the challenges turned to surfing waves! Who doesnt love a surf wave! We stopped briefly for a lunch snack and then got on to finish off our long lap. Seeing everyone smash their lines and moves on the rest of the river was lovely, and it was nice to see everyone ending the day with a big smile on their face.Back in the car park, we changed and said our goodbyes. Laura was taking the paddlers back to Plas Y Brenin in the minibus, but Chips and I were leaving straight from the Tryweryn for home. It was really nice to hear everyone excitedly talking about what they had got out of the day and how happy they were with their achievements.For me, it was a lovely day! I adore being a cheerleader in other peoples success stories offering encouragement, celebrating wins, and supporting people when they feel nervous. Seeing others grow in confidence on the water makes me genuinely happy, and Im grateful to Laura, Chips, and all the women for welcoming me into the group.When I got home that night, I opened the staff WhatsApp group to see it already overflowing with media from across the weekend. Seeing all the smiles and achievements from all the different sessions it was hard not to feel proud of what the whole team had created together!Thank youA huge thank you to everyone at Plas y Brenin for organising another brilliant ShePaddles weekend. The instructors (including the freelance team) were incredible, bringing so much energy and expertise to every session. Weekends like this only work because of the people who show up to make them special. Grace deserves a special mention for leading the organisation with her usual calmness and kindness.Thank you as well to the Paddle Cymru volunteers who supported sessions and helped behind the scenes.Thank you to all the brands for sponsoring the event. It was lovely to catch up with staff from OShea, who provided demo SUPs, as well as the Peak ladies. A special thank you to Pyranha Kayaks and P&H Sea Kayaks for providing demo fleets that helped paddlers get the most out of their sessions. It was great to represent Pyranha over the weekend. I was always proud to represent a company which really cares about supporting the community.Finally, thank you to everyone who attended, came over for a chat, joined me on the water, or shared a moment of joy across the weekend. You all helped create such a warm, supportive atmosphere, and I cant wait to see you again next year.

WORDS:DIMITRI VANDEPOELEPHOTOS: Sylvie VandepoeleNORTHSEAKAYAK@NorthseakayakCK/mer Symposium 2026It is that time of the year again, when we are longing to meet other sea kayakers and train together in a fantastic setting! It has been two years since the last CK/mer symposium (2024), as it is only held every two years. About 200 sea kayakers are meeting there, plus a team of international coaches, and, certainly not to be forgotten, the small but effective team of volunteers who work behind the scenes to make this event another success!The event starts the last week of April, with three days of workshops, followed by three days of touring. This edition, due to weather conditions, we could max out the workshops which was even better! The location is in Brittany, France, at Paimpol near the Brhat archipelago. The event is organised by the French Sea Kayak association CK/mer.Everyone gathers at Cruckin Campsite, literally near the water. Besides the tents and stands, there is a Village (where sponsors and brands can showcase their equipment) and a large marquee where briefings, lectures, and dinners are being held.Participants can choose from different workshops every day by putting their name on the corresponding list at the marquee entrance. Depending on the request, the instructors are appointed to these workshops, and small groups are formed to work as closely as possible. Also, different venues are used to avoid overcrowding. This is CK/mer, from our perspective!Workshop steering technique and boat control with Euro blade + rolling clinicTogether with a small team, we went off to a more sheltered area along the strongly tidal-affected river Trieux. Between the safety briefing and hitting the water, we gave some important information about leaning and edging a sea kayak, and the effects that come with them. We always ask about the level, but certainly about the expectations. Once on the water, we moved to the other side of the river, where many dinghies are moored. This proved the ideal spot for playing around the many small mooring buoys and boats.It isnt easy to manoeuvre a sea kayak like a pro in tight spaces, so we emphasised the importance of altering the hull shape and the length of the water line by edging and leaning to the maximum. Capsize, and you earn yourself applause was our motto! It means that you are pushing yourself! Yes, someone capsized, and yes, he got a well-deserved applause!After performing all possible steering techniques (bow/stern rudder, draw/sweep strokes and variations), we went to the side for some rolling. Almost everyone in the group could roll, but they wanted to improve. After a dry run and a wet run, we made time to work one-on-one and give feedback after each performance.Workshop incident managementThis list on the second day proved quite popular, so we worked with four coaches. We divided into smaller teams and switched every hour. This allowed everyone to work with a different coach and a different aspect of incident management.While some colleagues worked on towing and hypothermia treatment, we conducted a full scenario for each team. Everyone got the test before the lesson, in a safe environment. It was windy, with some tidal movement and no significant waves.We assigned two actors to each team, who went out of sight with me. In our scenario, both actors capsized. One held his boat and could perform an assisted rescue. The other lost his boat due to the wind, was conscious but hypothermic, and could not perform a standard rescue. On a signal, the team moved in, evaluated the situation, and was assigned the task of regaining control.During the rescue, the team did not know that the second casualtys condition was deteriorating. Once the casualty was on board (scoop rescue), the team received this new information and a specific exit point to wait for help. A decent towing system and rafting up with the casualty had to be implemented quickly.Upon arrival at the extraction point, the team needed to protect the victim from the elements, activate our (inert) Personal Locator Beacon, and make a proper Mayday call via VHF. For the other group, we tweaked scenarios so they would not be identical. On the way back with the last team, we offered a special extra.As you already know, we went to recover a partially sunken kayak. Nobody on our team had tried this before, and we did it in an open area to add a challenge. We gave a demo, followed by one participant flooding his own kayak. Afterwards, there was nothing but smiles and a sense of pride!Workshop steering technique and boat control in windy conditionsDuring this third workshop, the weather conditions reached Force 6, no less! So, this created perfect conditions for working in the bay of Port Blanc. Wave height was reasonable, but the wind had free play. As on the first day, we started with an explanation of when and how to use different strokes, the effect of wind on the kayak, and the proper use of a skeg.After that, its going to get wet and windy! We went all the way upwind in Port Blanc, while manoeuvring around the moored boats and buoys. That way, everyone could feel the wind coming from different directions.Edging and leaning proved interesting here, as well as manoeuvring on top of the waves when bow and stern are disengaged from the water. On the way back, we did some mild surfing and a specific exercise. We found shelter behind a rock formation and from there on, one had to paddle out to a small buoy in an unsheltered area, only a short distance whilst paddling backwards!Workshop self-rescues, rolling, and assisted rescues in windy conditionsThe first tour was cancelled due to strong winds (still Force 6), but luckily, we could do one more workshop! This time, applied rescues in realistic conditions! I had the pleasure of working together with a colleague specialised in Greenland rolling, as where my speciality lies in self and assisted rescues, so a perfect blend!The team we coached was again a super-motivated and enthusiastic bunch! We started in a fully exposed bay near the campsite, fantastic if you can just use your small kayak cart to go to the water, isnt it? We started with rolling and re-entry, in the wind and waves. After that, we built up towards assisted rescues. This worked, but it sometimes lacked important details.So, back on shore, we did a full demo and explanation of a correct, reliable assisted rescue. In the meantime, we could also provide proper feedback on the rolling, as communication on the water was nearly impossible. This time, every rescue was performed spotlessly! To end, and to reward the teams commitment, we organised a complete rescue in these conditions, rafting up a non-ambulatory victim, deploying a safe towing system with one tower and someone behind it to slow the raft in incoming waves, enabling a safe exfil on the beach. Task completed, top notch!Evening lecture on safety and safety equipmentTo start with, we could manage to get help in advance from companies weve worked with for about a decade. Every participant received a rescue light from Daniamant, the company for whom we field-test the ODEO Distress Flare. The floating keychains from McMurdo that we are carrying went to everyone.Last but not least, VE Paddles (Palm Equipment) provided a few PFDs and other small gear for the end-of-week raffle. I cannot thank them enough for their continuous support, trust, and the resources they offered for this event. Safety has always been our main priority. We explained how to use a full marquee, PLB, and flares; showed the audience what we carry on our person/PFD while paddling; and outlined our four rules.Always wear your PFDDress for immersionField-test your equipment regularly to learn how to use it.Imagine the worst that can happen, and prepare for this.We could show our SeaKayakSafetyPass. We can also demonstrate how our NORTHSEAKAYAK system works, even in cooperation with other systems, clubs, and federations. All organisations involved are non-profit and aim to make our sport as safe as possible.Touring and extra training on boat balance:On our last day, the wind dropped to Force 4 again. We went out with a bigger group and some fellow coaches. We visited Ryon Island in the nearby bay and landed on what locals call Hawa Beach. We could see why this secluded, sandy beach is set apart by rock formations. It was the perfect spot to train balance with a few very motivated people.Balance exercises are ideal for improving boat control and rescues, as they help you better understand your kayaks limits. We climbed to the front and back without capsizing, paddled without sitting in the cockpit, and even stood upright. There was plenty of fun and laughter, and one person even brought a birthday cake for the whole team! This small trip and training session helped us secure our participation as coaches for the CK/mer symposium 2026!Wrapping it all upWe are grateful to Jerome (president of CK/mer) for inviting us to this symposium again, as well as to his team of volunteers for all their work! Without them, no symposium!It is very satisfying and rewarding to work with different paddlers from different countries and backgrounds. We met some old friends and made some new ones. We got a lot of compliments, a lot of them about our specific approach to coaching. I must apologise for my first sentence, which I say during each safety briefing: I hate groups! I always leave a few seconds before continuing, and I see people looking at each other.These looks change when I continue with: I love teams! And that is the most important thing in our sport: taking responsibility for yourself and your teammates, and sticking together no matter what. Even during the days when it was very windy, I didnt have to yell once or use my whistle. This was only possible because of swift, clear communication in advance and splendid teamwork. To all the people we have trained with during the CK/mer symposium, we love you and hope to see you again!

Words & photos: Paul Cooper@adventure_kirkbylad FB: Paul Cooper. Admin of Sup ShropshireWhy China?A lot of people ask me, Why China? To be honest, our original plan was to go to America, but a last-minute shift in direction changed everything. Looking back, I dont regret it for a second even with the logistical hurdles we faced navigating the waterways of the Far East.Packing for three seasons in 20kgDeciding what to pack for a 20kg luggage allowance was a big challenge. Our itinerary spanned Hainan Island (25C+), Beijing (a brisk 4C), and Malaysia (30C+). While Im not just a fair-weather paddler, the unpredictable winter conditions meant we had to be ready for anything.Our kit included dry gear and thermals, but safety equipment proved the biggest challenge. We brought our Red Paddle Co PFD belts, thinking theyd be compact for travel. However, buying CO2 canisters in China is nearly impossible; sales are strictly regulated, and you arent allowed to carry them on trains. I tried buying a traditional buoyancy aid locally, but none of the retailers had my size in stock. Eventually, I found one online for the equivalent of 7 shockingly cheap, but I suppose most things are made there. We also ordered a single-chamber manual pump, along with an electric pump, for ease in certain places. As we were moving so fast every couple of days at first, only one PDF arrived in time, forcing us to re-order another at our next stop.For boards, Red Paddle Co kindly lent us two Compact models, for which we were extremely grateful. This was a game-changer, allowing us to ditch the usual heavy rucksacks. We packed our clothes in the SUP bags around the boards and paddles; those wheeled cases were lifesavers when going through Metro stations, especially since all train stations in China require you to put all your bags through x-ray machines, as we do at UK airports. That was a real eye-opener on how advanced and safe the country is.Breaking through the great firewallMaking contacts before arrival was tough. Western apps like Facebook and Instagram dont work without a VPN, and I relied heavily on WeChat to join local groups and message as many people as possible. China is very strict on rules, and I was terrified of accidentally paddling somewhere off-limits.Hainan: setbacks and super-fluWe arrived on Hainan Island full of optimism, but the PFD gas issue stalled us immediately. Then, on day four, disaster struck. As we moved to the Shenzhou Peninsula, I felt like someone was stepping on my chest. I couldnt breathe the super-flu had caught up with me.For the next week, I was grounded. Even by the time we reached Sanya, I was too exhausted to paddle. I spent those days frustrated, watching the waves from the shore and scouring WeChat for local clubs.The first green light in DongfangIn Dongfang, we finally got a break. I spotted our neighbour washing his Ford Transit camper (a fellow van-lifer!) and struck up a conversation via Google Translate. He then confirmed the China Sea was open for paddling.The first launch was an eye-opener. As we pumped up the boards, we became the main attraction. A crowd of locals closed in, filming us and murmuring questions. Once we hit the water, the intrigue settled.The South China Sea was calm, with small waves crashing against the shoreline. Though I wasnt feeling 100%, I was engrossed in the surroundings, even paddling out to explore a small lighthouse on the peninsula. This experience finally gave me hope.Navigating the rivers and reservoirsPaddling in China isnt as simple as drop and go. Many rivers are dammed for water purification, turning planned long-distance trips into loops of lakes. In some spots, I even had to pay for a guide to get permission to be on the water.GuilinA magical place surrounded by limestone hills. Though advised against paddling in tourist hotspots in December, a local accommodation owner pointed us to a swim spot. The water was below 10C freezing to the locals, but tropical for someone from the UK! Paddling past a village with the famous limestone mountains in the background was truly magical.GuangzhouThis was my first guided experience, delivered in a park within a nature reserve, which was pretty special, hidden in such a big city. We couldnt use our own SUPs, so we were given some bright pink ones, not sure if the instructor was trying to be funny. We paddled about 4 km there and back. The instructor was new to water sports, learning as they studied. I was introducing him to different strokes. Once off the water, I spoke to the boss about paddling ourselves, but he explained that it wasnt allowed under local regulations. I felt disheartened, but I knew I was beginning to talk to the right people on WeChat and that Id make progress.GuiyangWe had booked a local for a city tour, as I thought they could either help us or point us in the right direction. I later found out it was her first tour, so she was very eager to help us. Her name was Xiaodi. At Shiertan Reservoir, we found a local company on the citys outskirts. Xiaodi had agreed to meet us at a metro station and drive us to the location, for which we were extremely thankful. Once we arrived, three young men agreed to let us paddle for a small fee, even coming out in a Canadian canoe as a safety precaution. They were so excited to see us during the off-season that they flew a drone to film us. I even enjoyed traditional Chinese tea while on the board!ChengduFamous for pandas, Chengdu also offers Jincheng Lake. A contact suggested a water sports company called Wavespeed. The owner was so excited by our passion that he let me paddle for free. I managed several laps of the lake, even catching a smile from a passing policeman, all with the worlds largest building by floor area as my backdrop. While Claire answered the locals questions, the translator stood by.XianDuring the Chinese New Year, we arranged a paddle in Xian through contacts I made in Guiyang. This was with the Xian rowing club. We had the honour of being guided by an Asian Rowing Champion and former Olympian, a truly nice bloke (Bai Jungi). We paddled as a small group because a few others wanted to join us. The paddle started on a river, passing an empty water park, and I was captivated by the pagodas on the banks. After the paddle, a few of them asked if I wanted to dress up and have a go on the hydrofoil. I politely declined, but in hindsight, I wish I had.Chongqing: the 3D cityChongqing was definitely my favourite inner-city paddle of the trip. I put in 5km north of the city on the Chang Jiang River. I found the information by speaking with local tour guides, who explained that it was out of season but gladly shared it with me. We took a (Didi) there version of Uber to the launch. Once there, I spoke to a father and his two children, who were doing speed drills on SUPs for a short time, since I knew I had only a short window to complete my trip.When I started paddling through the city, it felt like being in a land of giants. Massive barges drifted by, planes roared overhead, and the monorail ran right alongside the river. Reaching the Hongyadong Caves just as the lights flickered on at dusk was epic. Claire was walking alongside, taking some pictures, and feeling unwell.Suzhou the grand finaleI saved the best for last: the Venice of the East. My contact, Rocky, met me after a long train journey and gave me a choice: the lake or the Old Town. We chose the Old Town, embarking on a 16km journey through 2,000-year-old canals. Seeing the ancient towers and bridges illuminated at sunset from the water was spectacular. I was so engrossed in the scenery I didnt realise the time till the lights flickered on.The next day, we explored Jinji Lake and the Gate of the Orient (a building shaped like a pair of pants!) before the weather turned, as Im constantly checking weather/wind forecasts wherever I am in the world, especially when we have paddleboards. Rocky told me he paddles year-round, and I explained that in Europe, we do the same as long as you have the right gear!Final thoughtsChina is a challenging place for a paddler, but the rewards are massive. We travelled to 13 cities using over 25 trains in an 85-day period. While I wish I could have paddled more, the experiences I did have were unforgettable. Im already dreaming of returning with a group to explore the ancient waterways of Suzhou once again.If anyone would like any contacts to paddle in China, Id be happy to pass them on and hopefully introduce more people to paddleboarding over there.ThanksA big thanks to the Red Paddle Co team; without them, using the paddleboard wouldnt have been possible. Also, a big shout-out to Guizhou Prepo Culture in Guiyang, our guide Xiaodi, who made it happen, and the Wavespeed team in Chengdu. A special mention goes to Rocky from Suzhou for showing us the best, truly amazing lakes and canals that China has to offer.Finally, a mention to Claire for putting up with me being ill at the start, for wheeling both paddleboard bags in the first week, and for my trying to do lots of research about paddling and getting stressed along the way. Without you, this amazing trip wouldnt have been possible.

WORDS: STEVE BROOKSPHOTOS: STEVE BROOKS & UTE HEPPKESteve BrooksSteve BrooksSteve has lived in Austria for over 28 years. It is a beautiful part of the world, with world-class rivers and stunning mountain scenery. In 2010, he set up, along with Ute, Kayak School Arlberg, where they run courses, coaching, and guiding kayakers through all whitewater grades on rivers such as the Sanna, Oetz, Lech, and Inn with his professional team. Since 2024, the Kayak School has been running British Canoeing whitewater leadership courses and Safety and Rescue courses in both Austria and Chile.Steve and Ute have now built a stunning house in the mountains above the kayaking mecca that is Pucon, Chile. Along with their Chilean team, they offer trips and expeditions to Chile from November through to March. To find out more, check out their website: www.gokayaking.atIncredible IndiaIt has been a whirlwind start to the New Year. Ute and I got back home to Austria from Chile at the end of January. I had been running trips in and around Pucon, and Ute came out to join me. Together, we travelled down to Patagonia to kayak and explore a new area. I wrote an article about our Pure Patagonia trip that was featured in the last edition of The Paddler. After that adventure, we spent a month skiing at home in the Arlberg region of Austria. Then I prepared to leave for India to lead a couple of whitewater kayaking adventures in the Himalayas. You really could not get two countries more different than Chile and India. After leaving the pristine waters of Patagonia and its calm, quiet landscapes, arriving in the sensory overload and vibrant chaos of India felt like a shock. The contrast between the two places is stunning the madness that hits you in India, and the unique occurrences that could only happen on the subcontinent, are always a surprise.Deep into the HimalayasSince 1999, I have returned here many times, spending months kayaking the rivers of Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, and Ladakh. Each kayaking mission and adventure is the start of a new chapter, and afterwards, Ute and I head deep into the Himalayas on our Royal Enfield Bullet motorcycle, searching for new rivers to kayak and explore. Along the way, we stumble across sights and situations that seem possible only in India. While there are too many to recount in detail, here are just three examples that give a taste of what makes Incredible India so unforgettable.The family of five on a motorbike!Why use a car when you can take a motorbike with your wife and three kids, navigating Indian roads together? This is a common sight throughout India. Watching from our jeep, we can only imagine the risks involved in such a journey!Elephant road tripping!Now, let me share another memorable scene: while European kayakers might set out for an adventure in a trusty van often a modified white transit van, or for those seeking charm, a Mark 1 VW camper that chugs along reliably in India, the road trip looks quite different. After returning from a trek in Himachal Pradesh with a group of UK schoolkids, we were staying in the lively town of Manali at the end of the Kullu Valley.As we walked down to the mall, the town centre, something unusual caught our eye a big old elephant waiting patiently at the start of the pedestrian street. At first, I couldnt imagine what an elephant was doing so far up here at the end of the Kullu Valley, but soon the answer revealed itself. The owner explained that they were on a cross-country road trip and had just arrived in Manali to stock up on supplies before continuing on to Leh in Ladakh.If you know the region, you realise thats about 490 km from Manali to Leh, crossing three high-altitude passes: Rohtang Pass at 3978m, Baralacha La at 4890m, and finally the Tanglang La at 5325m! The idea of travelling this route with an elephant was incredible, but the owner was certain, and who could argue after his many travels across India? We later heard he set off the next day; whether they reached Leh remains a mystery, but the adventure itself is unforgettable!The old Swiss guy sitting in a caveOne of the most bizarre personal stories happened while kayaking the Ganges with a local Austrian, Flo, during one trip. We put in at Kordiyala, planning a four-hour paddle down to Rishikesh. At the first major rapid, The Wall, we climbed river right to scout the best line. While discussing in our Tiroler dialect, we heard a voice from behind a Swiss-accented shout of Hey Austrians!To our surprise, we found an old Swiss man living in a cave in the rocky outcrops, tanned, with long hair and a beard, wearing only a loincloth. He showed us the cave he called home a situation so unusual it could only happen in India. Ever since, whenever I pass The Wall, I recall our encounter with the Swiss Baba and glance up to see if anyone is in the cave.The elephant road trip and meeting the old Swiss man in the cave remain among my most out-of-the-ordinary experiences while exploring the Indian Himalayas. Though I never took photos, these encounters are vivid memories Ill never forget!It was time to go back!Spring kayakingAfter such memorable adventures, it was time to move on. After spending a month at home skiing, avoiding avalanches, and catching up with friends, I turned my attention back to the Himalayas and Incredible India. I had planned to run a trip last autumn, but due to one of the heaviest monsoons on record, we decided to postpone it until this Spring.It wasnt just the high levels in the rivers we needed to be wary of, but also the landslides and road disruptions. We had experienced such issues before, exploring the Himalayan rivers and being rerouted by a major landslide, which delayed us by two days.It was March; the Holy Festival of Colour had just ended, marking the start of Spring. I waited in Rishikesh for the teams arrival, first kayaking with Kullu and Shivam to prepare. The next day, Chris, John, Tim, and Tony arrived from NZ and the UK. We settled in, and I outlined the plan for our twelve days ahead.The Holy GangesWith spring underway, we spent a couple of days warming up, kayaking the big, warm water of the Ganges from Kordiyala and Marine Drive down to Rishikesh. This upper stretch of the Ganges is at its cleanest, with no major industries nearby, and a ban on riverside camping has led to wildlife returning. Regular sightings of musk deer, various monkeys, and even elephant footprints on the rivers left bank rewarded us.The Ganges is a pool-drop river: The Wall Rapid marks the start, followed by mellow rapids, before the river really comes alive after Marine Drive with big wave trains, huge boils, and Himalayan holes for the unwary. Running the big waves was nothing short of exhilarating disappearing into troughs and catching glimpses of paddles punching through aerated foam, people catching air off the huge Himalayan crests.Only when I brought my camera and observed from the riverbank did I truly appreciate the scale of these waves. Its such a fun river to paddle, and these moments remind me why kayaking here is so special.Alaknanda RiverWe drove five hours upstream to a riverside resort on the Alaknanda River, just below Nandaprayag. It has taken Ute and me two days to make this trip from Rishikesh before, so this drive felt quick by Indian standards. On the way, we crossed Devprayag, where the Bhagirathi and Alaknanda Rivers meet, marking the start of the Holy Ganges. Our plan was to kayak down the Bhagirathi on the way back to Rishikesh.At Kaleshwar on the Alaknanda, we took a quick paddle down toKarnaprayag to adjust to the river and water temperature after the drive. The Alaknanda was colder than the Ganges, but some team members still wore short-sleeve cags. At home in Austria, we notice British kayakers brave the cold and just say, Well, it is Summer!In Karnaprayag, we loaded the trucks and drove to our accommodation for the next five nights, Devali Bagar. The local Uttarakhand government set up this rafting resort, and nearby guides have leased it for five years. With little rafting happening, we had the camp to ourselves. The views over the Alaknanda were stunning, and evenings in the pavilion were even better.The next morning, we paddled from camp down to Gauchar. The start was mellow, leading into the section we kayaked the previous evening. That day, gold diggers had set up on the riverbank, panning for gold. When I ask if theyve been lucky, I get the classic Indian head wobble impossible to know if theyve had good fortune or not!As the River Pindar joins the Alaknanda at Karnaprayag, there is a rapid that we needed to scout and plan our line through. There were remnants from last years monsoon, what was left of a mangled car, the chassis stuck in an eddy on the left-hand side. Karnaprayag, being a town at a confluence, is important to Hindus, so it becomes a place for cremations. Now, there are purpose-built ghats (open crematoriums) for the locals to cremate the bodies of loved ones and family members.KarnaprayagAs we went to scout, we tiptoed through the hair that was still on the ground. When someone is cremated, the nearest male family members will shave their heads. We scouted the line, I set up my camera and photographed everyone kayaking down. I, on the other hand, was a bit too relaxed and got hit by a curling wave off a big rock and flipped over. I quickly rolled up and then started giving myself a stern word, not because I flipped over, but because I flipped over in the middle of Karnaprayag!We continued down, scouting another rapid, running some big waves, surfing some sweet waves, and just taking it all in, kayaking in a beautiful part of the Himalayas. We finished at Gauchar, where major construction is underway. What used to be a bridge over the river, with hardly any traffic, has become a major infrastructure project: tunnel construction and a railway station that will take devotees farther up the valley to the Hindu temples. This was going to be something of a theme for the rest of the trip in Uttarakhand.We headed back towards camp, stopping in Karnaprayag for samosas, chai, and sweets, and making a quick pit stop at the English Wine Shop for some of the team to buy dodgy 8% beer.The Himalayas were affected again, this time with hardly any significant snowfall throughout the Winter. You could tell there wasnt going to be much of a Spring melt this year.Today we were kayaking further up the Alaknanda. Putting in at Birahi, which is located on the road towards one of the last major settlements, Joshimath. We were about to kayak some of the best whitewater the Alaknanda has to offer. Again, construction was happening everywhere, but it did give us good access to the river, though.We were off and were soon in the rapids. We quickly scouted one rapid, as it had changed after a landslide during last years monsoon. The rapids kept coming; the Alaknanda is steeper and narrower here. By the time we kayaked through the town of Chamoli, we were all grinning at the quality of the whitewater we had just kayaked. It was a day of good whitewater as the rapids kept on coming; some required a couple of scouts, another a small portage for some of us.The feel of the Alaknanda up higher is completely different, and there were so many rapids throughout the day. Again, I had the camera with the boys, and I was all styling the drops and rapids! We arrived at Nandaprayag late in the afternoon, with smiles on our faces and that evening Tony summed the day up by saying, That was a good day with whitewater kayaking. I could not agree more!That night it rained hard, and it was quite nice to listen to the rain from inside a cabin! The following morning, it was still raining, and the temperature had dropped! We headed to Nandaprayag to kayak the last bits of whitewater back to the rafting resort in Devali Bagar that we did not do yesterday. Though the temperature had dropped dramatically, we had plenty of whitewater ahead to keep us warm.Again, long rapids with huge rocks and some sticky holes behind them kept us on our line. Halfway down, we passed a beach where I had camped with Ute, Kim and Annie many years ago. That was an amazing trip with three ladies. We kayaked the Chandra in Himachal Pradesh before driving for two days with Chris, the fisherman from Manali, to Rishikesh to kayak up the Alaknanda.We were all currently enjoying our time up on the Alaknanda, including a low-water Pindar that was still fun. However, it was now time to leave for Rishikesh. It had snowed on the tops of the foothills just above us the night before, and we were also longing for some food other than rice, lentils, and chapatis. On the way back, we were going to kayak the Bhagirathi River.Bhagirathi RiverIt was a three-hour drive to Devprayag, followed by just over an hours drive to the end of the road above the Bhagirathi River. It was now a 15-minute walk down to the Koteshwar Mahadev Temple by the side of the river. It was the perfect put-in; the temple was interesting, the local worshipers said hello, and Shivam and Kullu went for a blessing.The temple is well-known for helping childless couples conceive. One of Shivams relatives came here, and within two years, they had had two kids! Apparently, you are supposed to stand in a sort of yoga pose on one foot for hours. I have no idea if it helps, but if someone is having trouble making a family, then why not try it!?We were now on the beautiful, turquoise-blue water of the Bhagirathi. It is a stunning river, set within a gorge, and you do not see anyone by the side of the river. You have a feeling of remoteness. You do not see the road or hear any noise pollution; it is one of the most relaxing and natural places to be in this part of India. The river gets squished in by the gorge walls, and you get that BIG water feeling, with huge waves, big holes, and each rapid dropping in altitude significantly after the pools.It was so fun to kayak. Kullu knows this river like the back of his hand, so rather than rubbernecking boat scout big water, we just followed Kullu into all sorts of wave trains and rollercoasters. The river was higher than on my previous runs, the dam was releasing more water than usual, and this just made it that bit more special!As we paddled past Devprayag and the confluence, the devotees by the side were looking at us in amazement, with one Baba blessing us as we cruised on by. Thanking him for his blessings, we headed over to the river left to take out. Our jeeps were waiting for us, and the next thing I heard was someone shouting Steve! As I got closer, I could not believe it, there by the side of the river was an old friend from Manali, Himanshu.He was bathing and taking a blessing in the Holy Ganges at the start with another friend. Not only was the Bhagirathi an amazing paddle, but meeting up with Himanshu after so long also made my day.It was time to return to Rishikesh for a days rest, pizza, and to recharge the batteries before our drive over to what I believe is the best river in Uttarakhand, the Tons!Tons RiverAfter filling our bellies with pizza, recharging our batteries, and going to the Rishikesh market for a Pappu Lassi, we were now on the ring road around Dehradun. We had managed to avoid much of the traffic through the big city, and now it was about negotiating the hill town of Mussoorie.We were rerouted through the hill station, and as we headed to Kemptey Waterfalls, we quickly stopped for an Indian breakfast of Aloo Parantha (a flatbread with mashed potatoes) and a sweet, hot chai. We then cruised down to the Yamuna River, and for the next four hours, we would follow it upstream.Then we head up another valley, cross the pass, and enter the Tons Valley. What was usually a stunning drive along the Yamuna River became a stop-start, bumpy, dusty track as another huge infrastructure project was underway. They were widening the road, then trying (unsuccessfully) to stabilise the mountainside above it to prevent landslides and blockages, so that more devotees could head up to this valley, which had a temple at the end. It was a hard drive that was taking its toll on all of us, and especially the patience of one of our drivers!We made it to Naugoan and could finally come off the Yamuna valley road works and have a little bit of tarmac with no works trucks, diggers and the like. We stopped for chai at Purola, and then it was a windy drive down through the forest and rhododendron trees to the village of Mori in the Tons Valley.Bone dryWhen we got to Mori, there was absolutely no water in the river; it was bone dry. I could not believe it. Had we just driven seven hours to get to a dry river? We continued downstream to Hanol, where we based ourselves for the next couple of nights.We showed everyone their rooms, then Shivam, Kullu, and I went further downstream to the border town of Tiuni to see what the river looked like and whether the Pabbar River, a major tributary of the Tons, had any water. Nothing, both rivers were pretty much dry! We found out that the dam upstream of Mori had been completed and now releases water every morning for 4-5 hours. We had a plan!It was an eventful evening; the dreaded Delhi belly paid a visit, and I was ill all night. Chris had it too, and Tony was not looking too colourful the following morning. I was in no fit state; I did not want to see or smell any food. Kullu and Shivam stepped up with me still curled up on my bed and led the team through the middle Tons. Chris got to Hanol and decided to call it a day, while everyone else kayaked down to Tiuni.That night, we all slept better, and with the rain hammering down all night, the river was up! I was back on the river today, leading and guiding everyone down the Lower Tons. I was feeling a lot better, and so was the rest of the team. As we drove to Tiuni, the Pabbar River was stonking. It was big and brown, bringing the Tons up considerably.We put in at Tiuni and kayaked off. The river was certainly up, and it was great to kayak the Tons with such a good level. The Tons is my favourite river in Uttarakhand, and I always make a point of kayaking it. I took Lakhsman down his home river for the very first time some 12 years ago, and I have spent many good times kayaking with Stanzin on the Tons. The river has an Alpine feel, with longer rapids, a good gradient, and, again, it often gorges up.The Tons River is less populated than the other rivers in Uttarakhand. We saw a few people, but we were generally on our own throughout the day. We were working really well as a team, taking eddies above the rapids if we could not see the line straight away. I would head down to another eddy to get a glimpse of the line. If everything was good, I would bring down Kullu with two of the team, then Shivam with the other two, keeping everything nice and safe.The weather had also brightened up a bit, and we were making the most of kayaking this special river. The last few gorges had unbelievable scenery and rock formations, and with John, our team geologist, we gained valuable insight into how each gorge formed. We finally arrived at the take-out in Minus in the early afternoon. The rain had returned, and the temperature was dropping. We met the jeeps, loaded the kayaks and kit and headed back towards Rishikesh.It was a five-hour drive to Rishikesh. We arrived late in the evening, but with a smile and greetings from Lalit, we all agreed the Tons was well worth the drive. It is a spectacular river that seldom gets kayaked, with hardly any tourism, both foreign and domestic!A truly special region of IndiaThe trip was now at an end, considering we were supposed to have kayaked at the end of September last year, it was certainly worth the wait, and I was really happy to show a great bunch of kayakers a truly special region of India.Next, Maria was coming for 10 days to kayak with Kullu and me. Then it was back to Austria to ski for the last 10 days of the season, checking out the snowpack for the Summer kayaking season, and, of course, eating some apfelstrudel to replace everything I lost from the Delhi Belly!This was my second adventure of the year, and I am now looking forward to Austrias kayaking season. The snowpack is looking good after heavy March snowfall. Here is to a great season!