Paddling under the midnight sun Words: Simon Hutchinson, Gnter Burgsteiner & Barbara WeitzenbckPhotos: Raw Abenteuer ReisenAustrian adventurers and Mountain guides Gnter Burgsteiner and Barbara Weitzenbck reached the end of their epic journey, completing over 2,000 miles of paddling down the Yukon River. Their journey began 51 days earlier on the Teslin River and finished in the remote Alaskan village of Emmonak, where the Yukon meets the Bering Sea.Their adventure tested their physical and mental strength, challenged their navigational skills, and immersed them in the unique culture of the Yukon River basin.The couple was struck by the generosity of the Yupik First Nation villagers who greeted them in Emmonak. The locals, eager to share their culture, offered food, shelter, and a glimpse into their traditional way of life. They celebrated the arrival of the two travellers with stories, songs, and dance, demonstrating the power of human connection and cultural exchange.No journey down the Yukon is ever a random decision. Gnter and Barbaras expedition resulted from years of planning and preparation and their extensive experience in adventure sports.As seasoned mountain guides and outdoor enthusiasts, they run RAW Adventure Travel, a company specialising in creating personalised outdoor experiences in over 80 countries. Their professional expertise spans various activities beyond SUP, from mountaineering and canyoning to heliskiing in Sweden and Canada and paragliding, underscoring their deep love and understanding of the outdoors and their commitment to safety and responsible travel.The seed for the Yukon trip was planted a decade earlier during Gnters ski traverse across Denali. The sheer size of the Alaskan tundra left a deep mark on him, and the Yukon River, flowing north through this striking landscape, called to him with the prospect of further adventure.The detailed planning process that led up to the expedition involved countless hours examining maps, researching logistics, and testing their equipment, leaving no room for doubt about their readiness for the challenges that lay ahead. Their selection of SUPs, as opposed to kayaks, was driven by Barbaras need for a means of transportation that would cater for her back problems and provide more freedom of movement during the long hours on the water. Gnter, drawing from his background in endurance sports and his meticulous nature, welcomed the challenge of modifying the SUPs for the rigours of the expedition.Setting offTheir adventure began on the Teslin River, a tributary of the Yukon. They chose this starting point because it was a new and novel route into the Yukon compared to the stretch near Whitehorse, which was more familiar, less scenic and wild and where there was a hydroelectric dam to bypass. From the outset, they faced unexpected obstacles. The water levels in the river were far lower than expected, and the low flow and movement meant they had no chance to coast downstream and instead needed to constantly paddle to achieve a decent pace. The scarcity of wildlife took them aback, but they did have noteworthy encounters with a mother grizzly bear and her cub and another where they came across a moose being chased by a wolf, which escaped by swimming across the river just by them.They put in many hours on the boards, maximising their mileage in those upper stretches, because they knew the second half would have far more challenging weather conditions, which could lead to delays. They averaged 14 hours a day, seven days a week, and mostly paddled overnight to avoid some of the hottest parts of the day.During the first week, we welcomed every single ray of sunlight because we felt the cold air current coming down from the snowy peaks. Soon, thermic development increased during the days, so we decided to change to nightshifts to escape the winds and the heat. In June, the sun never disappears. Those paddling hours in the middle of the night were the most impressive: complete silence, when nature doesnt move, and the sun spreads soft light in all colours.They hit a particular snag at the US border crossing point in the small, isolated riverside village of Eagle. The control point is a yellow telephone box hardwired to the US Border security office many miles away. Like many before them, they found that the phone didnt work, so they were stuck until they found one of the very few residents and persuaded them to lend them their phone to make the call and avoid the potential complication of entering Alaska illegally.Navigation and unexpected stopsWith the lower water levels, navigating the Yukon Flats, a complex network of channels and sandbars, which came next, was a far more difficult challenge than in a more usual year. When winter turns to spring, the vast volumes of meltwater coming downstream dramatically alter hundreds of miles of the river as the flow reshapes it and dumps timber and other obstacles, concealing the main channels and creating dead-end meanders.They didnt use GPS and relied on their abilities to read the river, which theyd developed over years of rafting. In advance of the trip, Gnter conducted a detailed study of Google Earth to gather the latest satellite images of this complex and challenging section to help them navigate it. They had to constantly manage the impact of the shallow water, which forced them to dismount and walk their boards on two occasions.They eventually reached the Dalton Highway Bridge, which is the finish point of the Yukon 1000 race, but it was only the halfway point of their journey. They were very weary as they refuelled at the local caf, but they were still in decent physical condition and determined to complete their expedition.We touched land at Dalton Highway Bridge to set our camp in the morning hours and met a couple there. After paddling another 12-hour night shift, we must have appeared pretty miserable because they immediately invited us for ice cream at the gas station. This was a happy omen for the next 1,000 miles ahead of us, where we found hospitality and welcome from the small villages we came across.Beyond that point, and for over 1,000 miles downriver, there were no roads, no bridges, and very little habitation or clear areas to pitch their tents overnight. They had expected extreme weather at this point in the Alaskan interior, and it arrived with a vengeance, leading to unscheduled multiday stops in remote villages. They took advantage of these unplanned breaks as opportunities to connect with the indigenous communities and learn about their culture.Experiencing the local cultureSpending time in the villages provided glimpses into a very different way of life from the Western world. They learned about traditional crafts, witnessed the tenacity of people living in challenging conditions, and experienced the warmth of a culture deeply rooted in the land. The villagers willingness to share their knowledge and traditions left a lasting impression, highlighting the richness of cultural exchange.The home stretchAs they approached the end of their journey, the couple felt a mixture of emotions. They were relieved at the thought of returning to the comforts of civilisation and some sadness at leaving behind the wilderness and the welcoming people they had encountered. News of their approach travelled ahead of them, carried by the strong community network that connected the villages along the river. They received a warm welcome at each stop, with villagers made aware of their arrival by those upstream, demonstrating the tight-knit nature of the river communities.Well never forget the greeting ritual the women performed to us at the river shore. Where the rivers met, they sang traditional songs and danced to welcome the incoming boats and to celebrate those departing. We were deeply moved by that act of friendship and by the warmth of the locals.Reflections on the journeyThe silence of the wilderness and the sight of bald eagles soaring overhead stand out as highlights of the experience. For Gnter and Barbara, the journey was more than just paddling down a river. It was proof of the strength of the human spirit, the value of careful preparation, and the transformative power of connecting with different cultures.Continuing the adventureGnter and Barbaras Yukon adventure powerfully reminds us that adventure lies in conquering physical challenges, embracing unexpected turns along the way, and forging meaningful connections with the people and places that make each journey unique. Today, the pair continue to share their love for the outdoors through their company, RAW Adventure Travel.They lead trips to diverse destinations, including SUP trips to Finlands lake district. They guide clients through pristine landscapes and share their belief in natures restorative power there. They provide their guests with an experience that is both physically and mentally rejuvenating, encouraging them to slow down, connect with nature, and gain a fresh perspective.To upgrade your wilderness abilities and skills, join them for one of their wilderness trainings and experiences. Sleep outside in summer or winter, spark a fire without matches, and nourish your soul with nature.The next guided SUP trip to Finlands fascinating lake district: May 24th to June 1st, June 6th to 14th, or June 14th to 22nd, 2025https://raw-abenteuer.reisen/standup-paddeln-in-finnland/GNTERS ADVICE FOR ORGANISING YOUR ADVENTURE:Keep it simple: stay light and mobile!Bring the absolute minimum of gear without ever compromising safety. In all my expeditions, summer or winter, I start with 20-22kg maximum, including all gear and food.Reduce the use of technical devices; they distract your focus from the essentials. If you have to, bring electronics as a safety backup, but dont make them central. Always prioritise the five senses over anything else when monitoring your environment.Any successful expedition requires complete immersion, so choose to be all in, to involve yourself fully, to be utterly present throughout, face the challenges, and enjoy it; the wind, the weather, and the wilderness are all one.Embrace adversity. Sleeping outside and complaining about the mattress makes little sense. You cant paddle the Yukon and complain about getting your feet cold or wet. You can either find a solution or just enjoy it. As soon as you start complaining, you have lost what makes the experience so special.Listen to Barbara and Gunter talking in detail about their incredible adventures down the length of the Yukon at supfmpodcast.com or search for SUPfm Podcast on YouTube, Spotify or Apple PodcastsSimon HutchinsonSimon is an all-season UK-based paddler, BSUPA instructor, Hutch SUP Wear brand owner, podcast host and producer. He enjoys spreading the stoke and connecting the aloha worldwide, with his love for this incredible sport. SUPfm: The international stand up paddleboard podcast, is the podcast for SUP inspiration whether youre a SUPracer, stand up paddleboard surfer or SUP adventurer.www.supfmpodcast.com
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