WORDS: Helen Schur & Geth RobertsPHOTOS: Ed Loffill & Geth RobertsKirsty and Geth RobertsAbout GethGeth founded Sea Kayaking Wales seven years ago, with Kirsty, and is SKWs head coach, providing BCAB awards, coaching and mentoring to the SKW participants and coaching team. He has also helped drive the SKW expedition programme, hosting opportunities in Norway and Scotland. In addition to kayaking, Geth enjoys biking, running, and exploring the mountains and raising an awesome family, with three children ranging from ten to four years old.About Helen Helen is currently based in Somerset and brings a wealth of sea kayaking experience from years of paddling with local clubs and friends across the British Isles and, more recently, in Arctic Norway. She holds a range of sea kayaking qualifications and is now offering her expertise as a freelance coach and guide. Were now fortunate to have Helen as part of the Sea Kayaking Wales coaching team and look forward to many more adventures and collaborations together.About Sea Kayaking WalesBased in Anglesey, SKW offers expedition and holiday opportunities in Scotland, Norway, and Pembrokeshire. They hope to add Mediterranean and Irish destinations to this list. Check www.seakayakingwales.com. Sea Kayaking Wales also offers progressive coaching courses on Anglesey, ranging from beginner to advanced levels. It is a provider of all British Canoeing Leadership, Coach, Safety, and Personal Performance awards. Clubs/groups are also encouraged to hire SKW for meets and expeditions. SKW is also a dealer of Sea Kayaking UK, Tiderace, Zegul Sea Kayaks and Rockpool Kayaks. You can demo most models on the course opportunities. Check out www.skwkayaks.com for excellent course participant deals.Arctic Norway adventure: Circumnavigating Srya for the 50th Nordkapp expedition anniversaryLast year, our inaugural SKW Arctic Norway expedition saw us paddling beneath the midnight sun, traversing the wild and beautiful islands of Senja, Kvalya, Sommarya, Hja, and Vengsya an adventure that left us inspired and eager for more Arctic exploration. Our journey drew direct inspiration from the pioneering 1975 Nordkapp Expedition, the first major expedition to utilise modern fibreglass Inuit-style sea kayaks.For 2025, our next Arctic Norway expedition took on special meaning, marking the 50th anniversary of the legendary British sea kayak expedition from Bod to Nordkapp, which journeyed over 800 km. In honour of this milestone, we set our sights on the remote island of Srya, far above the Arctic Circle and only 100 km west southwest of Nordkapp the iconic northernmost accessible point of Europe. Known as the Green Island of Norway, Srya is famed for its dramatic, rugged coastline, soaring cliffs, unspoiled bays, and rich wildlife. A sense of isolation matches its wild beauty here, whales and dolphins patrol freely, vast numbers of seabirds settle to breed, dozens of majestic white-tailed sea eagles soar, and the sea state can shift in an instant.Srya sits at 70.87N placing it not only deep within the Arctic Circle but also roughly level with the central east coast of Greenland, the northernmost parts of Alaska and nearly 800 km north of Iceland. Only a handful of inhabited islands worldwide most notably nearby Nordkapps Magerya Island, the Svalbard archipelago and a few in far northern Russia/Canada lie further north than Srya, placing our expedition among the northernmost sea kayaking island adventures possible.Our goal was to complete a circumnavigation of Srya an island nearly twice the size of nearby Nordkapps Magerya, boasting over 200 km of dramatic coastline by sea kayak, starting from the historic Arctic port of Hammerfest. With a team that combined familiar faces and new adventurers, we set out in the true spirit of exploration that has defined sea kayaking expeditions for the past fifty years. What follows is Helen Schurs account of this journey a story of teamwork, fun, and the enduring allure of Norways wildest waters.A Norwegian WelcomePaddling in Norway was so stimulating in 2024 (on the SKW Senja/ Kvalya Expedition) that we just had to return! Arctic Norway has dark mountains dabbed with snow, ice fields and glaciers. White mist strands hover over the water, and the fog rolling in is atmospheric. The sun brings warmth, heat, even, and deep blue skies and seas. The seawater is extremely clear, exposing kelp forests, jellyfish, small fish and comb jellies.There are plenty of seabirds to spot, and if you are lucky, shy seals, porpoises, dolphins, and whales. Inshore, the sea becomes turquoise, enticing you to swim! Ashore, the grass is rich with spring and summer wildflowers. The midnight sun means you can explore or paddle endlessly until you realise just how late it is! To add to this, Troms is an excellent town with plenty to explore and cafes to indulge in at the start and end of the expedition.Day 1: Arrival and First Paddle, 22.5 kmFrom Troms, we caught a small Widere plane to Hammerfest, a town where reindeer freely wander the streets. We called into the local supermarket for provisions, then walked to the iconic site of the Outdoor Museum, which was to be our launch point. After much packing, we set off with great excitement for Srya; we were underway! Skirting the south side of two small islands during our calm crossing, we finally landed on the east coast of Srya. Even on this first paddle, we saw lots of puffins, guillemots, and a porpoise! We found plenty of driftwood on the beach for a fire, and our team fire-lighter set up a welcome fire below the high tide mark, where we had hot food and tea. Then, we rapidly retired to our sleeping bags after a very long day.Day 2: Westerly Winds and Coastal Progress, 11.1 kmThe winds and conditions favoured a clockwise circulation of Srya, at least taking an overall view! On day two, the westerly wind was strong, and after breakfast, it rained for two or three hours, so we took the not unwelcome opportunity for some further rest. We made a team decision to make some progress along the coast today, so once the wind had settled a little in the afternoon, we paddled along the south coast for some hard-won kms. We were rewarded with sightings of sea eagles.Day 3: Sunshine, Dolphins, and Decision Making, 41.8 kmThe following day, conditions had improved & we set off to see how far along the south coast we would reach. We again saw sea eagles, and this morning also some dolphins! A break on a small island prepared us for the next stretch. The weather cleared, the sun came out & the views south to the islands and mountains sprinkled with the winters snow were stunning. There was a strand of white mist along the coast at the foot of these southern islands, then kilometres of blue sea reflecting sun sparkles. This was an idyllic paddle, but knowing what lay ahead, and favouring a longer recharge in the sunshine, we paddled into a small circular bay/lagoon from which we looked back over the sea to the mountains. Some of us swam in the sunshine and slightly warmed water, and we all enjoyed some hot food. Well rested, we set off again, a little reluctantly, leaving this beautiful setting.The next phase of the day was all about decision-making. As a team, we decided to explore conditions around the southwest headland and along the west-facing coast of Srya to see if we could continue to make further progress today, knowing that there was significant wind in the forecast a few days ahead. Swell and the tide flowing around the headland made for some large waves, which were experienced as invigorating or huge depending on your perception at the time. We considered the sea and conditions, but our deliberations were drawn to a clear conclusion when the fog, which had been lurking all day, came in thick and fast and set. We retreated carefully to the sheltered southeast-facing beach, back around the south-western headland.Day 4: West Coast Challenges, 17 kmAfter a relaxed and chatty morning (waiting for conditions to subside a little), we again set off around the headland. This time, aided considerably by clear conditions, we made our way along the west-facing coast. Decision making was again a feature today, balancing paddling well away from the rocky shore with the smoother conditions afforded by less flow closer into the rock faces.After a couple of hours, we set off on a shortish crossing across a wide bay, where we were distracted from paddling for a while, having spotted the blows of a humpback whale, and then its back. We made significantly slower progress than expected, not least thanks to once again paddling into a headland. This was one of those times when good snacks made a significant difference to our energy levels; we continued and landed (some of us very gratefully) at the next sheltered beach and camp spot.One member of our group, with a passion for fishing and some enviable energy at this point, set out into the bay. Within the hour, they returned with three large cod! Barbecued on the fire, the fresh cod was delicious. What a way to finish a shortish but hard paddling day.Day 5: Dramatic Cliffs & Arctic Skua, 38 kmAfter hours of sleep, followed by morning chats while waiting for the wind to settle, we set off early in the afternoon to round the northern end of the west coast by the end of the day. This was a stunning paddle of high dramatic cliffs and multitudes of sea birds, including puffins, guillemots, kittiwakes, and the aggressive Arctic skua.In one of the many highlights of the trip, we called into Srvr for a provisions top-up and carrot cake. A couple of us visited Trrfiskloftet, the local community hall/cafe/bar, which was warm and welcoming. A real treat at this point was a quick face wash with soap and hot water!Again, happily rested and with provisions topped up, we continued along the coast to a beautiful and sheltered bay, spotting a dolphin along the way. Much later that evening, the midnight sun rounded the westerly edge of the bay, what a finish to a spectacular day.Day 6: Rest and RechargeThe winds, although in our favour now, were too strong to paddle and so we enjoyed a sunny day in the bay, with chats, swims and a hike.Day 7: Puffins & Mist on Kamya Island, 40.2 kmThe sun was still shining, the winds had settled considerably, and we set off to continue along the northern coast of Srya. This was a day of many puffins and a whale or two in the distance! Kamya, an island towards the eastern end of the north coast, was beckoning. The weather and conditions appeared to be remaining calm, and so after checking forecasts, we turned for the northern bay of Kamya. This had been a curious day with some strikingly warm thermals. Almost as we landed, the wind shifted to a cold north-westerly, and we believe that, combined with the warm air, this change caused the thick mist and damp that rolled in. A fire cheered us, and soon after our third 40 km day, we headed for rest.Day 8: Exploring Kamya & the north, 20.3 kmIn the morning, we hiked up to the ridge of Kamya to stunning 360-degree views, south to Srya and north to Little Kamya. The mist had lifted, the sun was out, and we set off for a paddle around Little Kamya so many puffins! before crossing to the most northerly headland of Srya and rounding to the east coast.The bay we had identified as a potential campsite had some cabins in the sheltered end, so we carefully considered a small surf landing onto a sandy beach in the more southerly end. Safely landed, we set up camp for the final time on Srya. It was a beautiful evening, including porpoise feeding in front of our campsite as we cooked and chatted.Day 9: Dolphins, Whales, and the Final Crossing, 26.5 kmOur final day of paddling did not disappoint. After a morning swim, we launched (the surf had disappeared) into a sunny day and began our journey along the eastern edge of Srya. This was an unbelievable day with comb jellies glistening, and close sightings of pods of dolphins and minke whales! Weve since learned that the comb jellies have small ridges of combs, which create the multicoloured sparkling effect along these ridges when they move.When we finally made a leisurely crossing back to Hammerfest and its reindeer, we were buzzing!Day 10: Homeward Bound on the Hurtigruten Coastal FerryOur return journey to Troms was by the Hurtigruten. This was traditionally a mail and supplies ship travelling up and down the Norwegian coast from Bergen to Kirkenes. Today, the ships are a cross between supply ships and smart ferries. There is a large deck area, and for much of the journey, occasionally interspersed with the familiar fog and mist, we had stunning views whilst the Hurtigruten returned us to Troms.SKW Arctic Circle+ Expeditions 2026Arctic Norway Bod, Lofoten Archipelago, Moskenesy, Vry & Rst Islands ExpeditionArctic Norway Troms, Kvalya, Sommary, Hja & Vengsya Islands ExpeditionArctic Norway, Hammerfest, Srya Island ExpeditionThese expeditions are open to intermediate and advanced sea kayakers who are ready to push their boundaries, immerse themselves in raw nature, and become part of a close-knit team exploring well above the Arctic Circle.To register your interest and stay updated, visit our website at www.seakayakingwales.com