Pure Patagonia white water kayaking April 2026 issue Words: Steve BrooksPhotos: Steve Brooks & Ute HeppkeSteve BrooksSteve Brooks Steve has lived in Austria for over 28 years. It is a beautiful part of the world, with world-class rivers and stunning mountain scenery. In 2010, he set up, along with Ute, Kayak School Arlberg, where they run courses, coaching, and guiding kayakers through all whitewater grades on rivers such as the Sanna, Oetz, Lech, and Inn with his professional team. Since 2024, the Kayak School has been running British Canoeing whitewater leadership courses and Safety and Rescue courses in both Austria and Chile.Steve and Ute have now built a stunning house in the mountains above the kayaking mecca that is Pucon, Chile. Along with their Chilean team, they offer trips and expeditions to Chile from November through to March. To find out more, check out their website: www.gokayaking.atPure Patagonia white water kayakingIt had been a while since both Ute and I had been on an adventure together. So with a terrible snowpack back home in Austria, Ute suggested that she could join me in Chile in the New Year! It did not take long for me to think about it, and within 24 hours, her flights were booked, and I started planning an adventure into the heart of Patagonia.The plan was to go kayaking on a river we had never been on and to explore a part of Patagonia that we had never seen. We spent a week or so at our house in Pucon, getting our truck ready for the roads in Patagonia and also having a frame made for carrying our mini-motocross motorbike, and with a few more spares bought in Pucon, we were ready to start our journey south into Patagonia.Crossing the border into ArgentinaThe ferry from Horno Piren to Chaitn was fully booked, so we crossed into Argentina via the Cardenal Antonia Samor Pass. It is one of the main passes in the south to cross, and though we have heard horror stories of spending hours at each border checkpoint, it actually went rather smoothly. We had the correct paperwork for the truck, motorbike, kayaks, and equipment, which was greatly appreciated by both checkpoints.After finishing immigration in Argentina, the customs agent beckoned us to him and, after a quick chat in Spanish, explaining what was on the roof, the idea behind the motorbike and our plans, he was blown away. We ended up talking to him for quite a while, as he found what we were doing truly fascinating, so much so that a queue of vehicles formed behind us. We finally said goodbye to the customs agent, got a few tips on places to visit on the Argentine side of Patagonia, and were not long before we were driving through Villa Angostura via the 7 Lakes Road on our way to San Carlos de Bariloche.The views were incredible, and it brought back memories of our first time in this area in 2003 when we came to ski. The area around Bariloche is similar to the British Lake District but on a scale much, much bigger. We continued our journey past Bariloche, hoping to reach El Bolson, a small village at the foothills of the Patagonian Andes.However, the weather and the Argentine roads had other ideas, and we ended up staying the night in Rio Villegas, halfway between El Bolson and Bariloche. The wind had picked up, the rain was falling, and the temperature was dropping fast. We found a wooden cabin available, the lovely family got the fire burning, and within a few minutes, the cabin was warming up! The next day, we woke up to a dusting of snow on the mountain tops and clear blue skies.We were stopped at a police checkpoint on the other side of El Bolson. Again, they were super friendly and helpful, and we spent some time talking at the checkpoint while a queue formed behind us! We found out that the road was open now after catastrophic fires had ripped through the area. We continued down the Ruta 40, and it was not long before the acrid smell of smoke, burning and devastation hit us. It was horrendous.We could see where the fires had crossed the road and a few farms that had miraculously avoided being destroyed. Unfortunately, they were the few! This ski town of Esquel was the next town we passed through on our way to Trevelin, the last settlement before the border crossing back into Chile.What is interesting about Trevelin is that it was formed by Welsh settlers, and you can still see signs in Welsh, including houses, farms and hotel names in Welsh. There is also a Banco de Gales.Back into ChileWe left the beauty of a tarmac road, and what followed was a washboard all the way to the border. With another effortless border crossing, we were back in Chile and heading towards the Rio Futaleufu. Just downstream of the village is the Monastario and Ficos house. We wanted to make a quick pit stop at the Monastario to surprise Fico, whom we had known since our first time in Peru back in 2002.I have worked a lot with Fico on my private guest trips to Peru, and his personality, humour and stories are something to behold. In fact, we made a fair few stories and history together, including one about a parrot in the Amazon, which is for another day. He is an absolute legend in the world of rafting in South America and is loved by everyone. Unfortunately for us, he was not there!So we left a Kayak School Arlberg sticker with a message on the back tucked into the front door and continued our journey. Two days later, we received a message from Fico saying he found our message, was so happy to hear we were going to pay a surprise visit, and, of course, was gutted that he missed us!What, no Futaleufu!?You may be wondering why we did not stop at the Rio Futaleufu? The plan was to kayak and explore somewhere we had never been to before, and we had kayaked on the Futaleufu quite a few times. Also, once we had seen just how many people, kayaks, rafts and vehicles were at the put-in for the Bridge to Bridge section, we were happy to head away from the crowds and look for that part of Patagonia that was quieter and less known.It was not long until we left the washboard roads and joined the famous Carretera Austral. Route number 7 goes from Puerto Montt all the way down to Villa OHiggins. The total length of the Ruta 7 is some 1,240km through the heart of Chiles Patagonia, and as one of our guests once said, It is a trip of a lifetime in itself, and we were adding whitewater kayaking to the trip!The weather had changed, the clouds had come in, and it was raining off and on when we finally arrived in La Junta, a small enclave on the Ruta 7 and also the gateway to the Lago Verde Valley and the Rio Figueroa. The cabaas we found were amazing; they had only just been built the year before and had full mod cons, giving us a nice, warm and cosy place to base ourselves.Patagonia and the Region Aysn, ChileWe wanted to kayak the Rio Figueroa the following day; however, the weather had other plans, and with decent internet access at our accommodation, we saw that within the next 48 hours, high pressure was going to build over us for around five days.There is a saying down in Patagonia that roughly translates to: Those who try to rush their journey in Patagonia are only doomed to failure!The next day, we scouted sections of the Rio Figueroa, checked out other nearby rivers, and looked for contact details of Gauchos who could transport our kayaks and equipment. As rain continued, we monitored the weather forecast and decided to head to Lago Verde the following day, planning to stay the night there. We stocked up on supplies, packed for the river, and enjoyed a local Patagonia beer and meal.To Lago VerdeWe were back on gravel and washboard, driving up to Lago Verde. We had dropped off the motorcycle at the take-out, then roughly halfway up to Lago Verde, we saw a sign to the river. As we peeled off the main track, we were now using a 44, making our way towards where the road gets close to the river. We met a farmer by the side of the track and ended up talking to him for about half an hour. His name was Luis, and he said that once we came back from viewing the river, we should stop and have a mat (a local hot drink that is similar to green tea, which you drink through a metal straw).We continued down to the river, thankful for our 44, as parts of the track were completely off-limits to a car! We got to see the Rio Figueroa and noted the distinct markers for reference as we kayaked past before heading back up for a mat with Luis.We walked down to his farmhouse and were invited in.Fueled by mat, we followed Luis around his proud farm as he shared his vision to restore the lands natural state after the previous owners sheep had turned much of it into grazing. Luiss efforts to plant local bushes and trees were inspiring. He embraced living off the land in Patagonias beauty, earning a living by selling around 460kg of raspberries each season, including the wild varieties. Beehives helped pollinate his fruit bushes, while dogs guarded the farm from pumas wandering nearby forests and mountains. We spent hours talking about life in Patagonia before saying goodbye, promising to visit again.Back on the washboard road to Lago Verde, we glimpsed the Rio Figueroa as we neared the confluence of the Rio Pico. Suddenly, we saw eight Andean condors soaring high in the sky. Ute quickly grabbed her binoculars, and we pulled over to watch these impressive birds glide above the peaks of the Patagonian Andes. We then continued to Lago Verde, arriving late in the afternoon.In Lago Verde, we were trying to find a room; we thought it would be extremely easy, since the enclave is in the middle of nowhere, but it turned out to be quite complicated. We headed to the only restaurant in town, ordered a late lunch and asked the Seora if she knew anyone with a room available? As she was the only restaurant in town, she knew everyone, and by the time lunch came out, we had managed to get the only room left in Lago Verde!The whole village has rented out its rooms and cabins to the workers who are installing a new canal system and a tarmac road just outside the village. Ute and I had a single bed to share for the night, but we were happy; we had a roof over our heads, and we were away from the strong wind howling through the village.Lago Verde has an end of the world feel. You can actually cross the border to Argentina; however, after Lago Verde, there is no road, just a track from Chile, where you have to cross two rivers before crossing into Argentina, where again there is no road and no track to the village, far, far away. I popped in to see the Carabineros (police) to explain what we were going to do and also to say that our truck would be parked next to the put-in for the next 3-4 days.Simon, a policeman sent to the outpost at Lago Verde, was not keen on our leaving our truck by the side of the road. He suggested we come via the police station in the morning, and he would come with us to the put-in, then drive our truck back to the police station for safekeeping! It was unbelievable just how helpful and friendly everyone was down in this part of Patagonia.That night, the wind howled, and it felt as though the house we were staying in was swaying around. It was a bit snug for both of us in the single bed, but again, we were happy to be out of the elements!Rio FigueroaThe next morning, we picked up Officer Simon early from the police station, drove to the put-in, packed our kit and loaded the kayaks for the next three days. Simon was extremely interested in how we packed our kayaks and what we were taking for the next three days. He was pretty impressed that we could fit everything into the stern of our kayaks.We waved him goodbye, put in on the Rio Pico, and within five minutes we got to the confluence and entered the Rio Figueroa. The sun was out, the wind had stopped, and we were finally kayaking a river we had never done before!What hit us immediately was the strength of the current; yes, we were in Patagonia, where the rivers are bigger, but with the past four days of rain, the river had risen.We were kayaking through some nice, warm-up rapids, getting used to the flow, the strength, and the gradient of each rapid. Then all of a sudden, the river started to close in, the forest was right down by the riverside, and as we came around the corner, we could see the first major rapid, El Diablo (the Devil). From a river about 100m wide, it closed in and was squeezed into a box canyon.The current was heading to a big rock, with waves that were difficult to see over. We set up on river right and worked our way across the big waves to avoid the wall on the right, where all the water was pushing to. The boils were huge on the left, and it was a matter of staying on the left side of the main current to avoid getting sucked down by the huge boils. After El Diablo, it flattened out, and we were able to take in the stunning scenery, where the forest hung off the cliffs, imposing directly above us.It was just a short distance to the next major rapid, called Pinball. So what is usually moving between rocks all the way down the 300m rapid turned into avoiding some seriously big holes, punching through a few smaller ones and sneaking a line just river right of the huge hole that seemed to be swallowing up the majority of the water at the bottom of the rapid. Yes, the river was certainly higher than normal, and this got us wondering whether the portage further downstream would be runnable or at least have some sneak lines through it?We continued kayaking downstream, making good speed until we found an island in the river with a nice bit of sand where we could pitch our tent. We took a late lunch, found a shady spot, and then just relaxed, watching the condors soar way above us.The evening and night were uneventful, and we managed to get a fair few hours of sleep. The morning brought a mist over the river, which was extraordinary to see, with the deep blue Patagonia sky and the sun working its way out from behind the mountainside. With the mist disappearing while eating our breakfast, once finished, we packed up and continued down the Rio Figueroa. The first little rapid reminded us of the character of this river, with the boils catching the sterns of our kayaks and giving us a freestyle ride to the end of the rapid, where the river released us. What felt like minutes, but was actually a few kilometres, we came to the portage.The Lord of the RingsThe rapid is called The Lord of the Rings and is broken down into three parts, each with a small pool between them. We went to scout the first and second drops, only to realise that the higher water level had left us with no lines safe enough to kayak. Just a few huge holes where the main current was sending you, and with some syphons by the sides. It quickly became apparent that we would be walking our kayaks and equipment around the first two rapids.We checked out a possible route up in the forest on the rivers left side, and it seemed the best option. We climbed back down and pulled the first kayak up and away from the riverside, into the forest, before going back down for the second kayak. That was the plan for the portage: I would drag the kayak with my rescue sling and carabiner, while Ute would help push it along and lift it up or lower it down at the back using her rescue sling and carabiner.A Patagonia forest is unlike anything else we have encountered around the world. The trees were twisted together, and bamboo was sprouting between them, making it even more difficult to get through. Add to this the vines, prickly bushes and moss, only brought more suffering! We were moving slowly, struggling to keep the kayaks on what can only be called a slight opening in the forest; it was far from a track! As we got just past the second rapid, I took a quick look and realised it would be easier to kayak to the right bank and portage the last rapid from there.Now it was just a matter of kayaking over the huge rivers wide boils to get over to the start of the last part of the portage. This time, however, we were not going through the forest, but up and over huge boulders by the side of the river. By the time we finished the portage, we were drenched in sweat and shattered. I completely stripped off, wrung out my kayaking kit and thermals, then put them onto various hot boulders to try and dry out. I then plonked myself first in a pool of water and, finally, onto a flat rock to take a rest. The portage had taken us three hours to complete, and we were tired, extremely tired.There was not much of an option to camp here, and we were not even halfway down the river, so after taking in a lot of fluids and a boost of sugar, we carried on down.There were plenty of rapids to keep us smiling, be it running big waves, making moves to avoid some serious holes, keeping the kayak from going vertical on the boils and scouting now and again, we were full on in expedition white water kayaking mode!We arrived at a lovely beach with shade and plenty of vegetation, which kept the wind from blowing against our tent. We took a late lunch, and with smiles on our faces from a great day of expedition kayaking, we decided to camp here. We refuelled, hydrated and just took in our surroundings of being alone in the heart of Patagonia, only for a wild boar to come down and start a staring competition! Luckily for us, it gave up and retreated back into the forest.That evening and night went by quietly, and as we were fully energised and ready to go, we set off early the next morning. We still had not reached the halfway point, but it was not far downstream, and within the first hour, we kayaked past the point we had visited with our truck on the way up. There were signs of human life now, and for the next few kilometres before we came in for a big surprise. The river squeezed in again, and with a huge rock blocking much of the entrance from what we could see in the last eddy above the rapid, we realised it would be extremely difficult to portage, as the entrance led to a deep canyon.It looked as though, if we kept on the seam line between the canyon wall and the huge rock, we could make a line through the entrance of the gorge; then it was just a matter of negotiating the huge boils for the next 50 metres. I led us through, and, with a bit of bad luck, the timing of the seam line shifted, pushing me over to the right into some massive boils, where I was stuck waiting for them to blow out. Ute styled the entrance and was now dealing with the boils in the gorge.IncredibleNeedless to say, we got through without rolling over and were given a huge reward in the gorge; it was stunning. The forest was above us; trees grew in small pockets between the cliff walls, and water dripped from the roots into the river. We just sat in our kayaks, letting the current turn our boats so we could see different aspects of the gorge. It was incredible!As we exited the gorge, the river opened up, and we saw the road now and again. The steepness of the river mellowed out, and we were making good time, cruising down the rapids and even managing to surf some green, glassy waves!The weather was still with us, deep blue skies and a blistering sun high above. The river was really mellowing out, and we knew it could not be far now until we reached the lake. Around one corner, the mountains opened up, and we could see snowcapped peaks with hanging glaciers in the distance. These were all hidden by clouds and rain when we were in La Junta, so it was amazing to see these impressive mountains and peaks from the valley floor!We arrived at Lake Rosselot and stopped for a snack and to capture some stunning photos of the river flowing into the lake with snowcapped mountains in the distance. In fact, every time we turned around or looked in a different direction, there was another snowcapped peak and hanging glacier at the end.It certainly made the flat paddle out over the lake more interesting. The only problem we had was to work out which part of the lake fed into the Rio Rosselot, where our motorbike was patiently waiting! After an hour of paddling, we made it to the take-out with huge smiles on our faces.However, it was not the end of the expedition as I would now have to ride the 60km of dirt road from the take-out back to Lago Verde on our mini-motocross bike! Some 30km into the shuttle, I blew the front tyre and ripped the chain off the sprocket. I managed to get the chain back on, but there was no possibility of repairing the blown tyre, where is the Indian Puncture Wala when you need them? With no one driving along the track, I continued with a blown-out front tyre for the remaining 30km to the Police station.By the time I got there, my wrists, elbows and shoulders were in bits from the shuddering and hits they took from a wheel with no air in the tyre! Officer Simon heard me arriving and came out with a big grin on his face. He was happy to see me; I was certainly happy to see him. After a quick chat, we said our goodbyes and hoped to see each other again the following year!I made a pit stop at the restaurant to buy some chips that were dripping with oil and fat. I did not care; they tasted so good. By the time I got to Ute, her chips were still warm, and I was not too sure whether the smile on her face was the relief that I made it up safely on the mini motocross bike or the chips I was holding out in front of me! Either way, she gave me a big hug, ate the chips, and we packed up and headed back to La Junta.What a river the Figueroa is! The whole trip was amazing, and I did not even write about the journey back north to Pucon. A big thanks goes to Rick for the background info, the people we met along the way, and to Patagonia. The locals from the Rio Figueroa, Luis and his farm, Officer Simon at the end of the world police station and Leo, who has given us some great information about another river close by. It all made for a truly memorable trip into the heart of Patagonia, away from the crowds and the hype of other, more infamous rivers in the area, into a place we fell instantly in love with. This is Pure Patagonia!Background InformationGetting there: Either by road via Argentina or via ferry, staying in Chile if travelling south, or you could fly into Coyhaique and then drive northwards.Climate: Its Patagonia, so expect four seasons in one day and a lot of wind!Language: It is purely a Spanish-speaking area; we did not hear any English or other languages while we were in the valley. It would be extremely challenging to do this if you do not speak at least basic Spanish. Though the Chilean Patacon dialect takes time to understand!Shuttle: There are no shuttle options, so make sure you either have a motorbike set up if you are on your own, a driver, or two vehicles.Ruta 7: Make sure you have spares for your vehicle, as there are few people around, especially when you come off the Ruta 7.